Category Archives: Youth culture

2010 ➤ Index of posts for Sept

Orgreave, Yorkshire , miners' strike, riot police

Revisiting June 1984: Striking miners start to run as the police line opens to let mounted officers charge the mass picket at Orgreave Coking Plant, South Yorkshire. Photographed © by John Sturrock/Report Digital

➢ 1925-2010: Tony Curtis — for ever hot

➢ In the face of Cowell X-culture, Polhemus discovers the style supermarket afresh

Peter Frampton, David Bowie, schooldays

Peter Frampton today: Bowie’s best friend at school

➢ Six things some people might not know about Bowie

➢ As Station to Station is re-released, Egan discusses Bowie’s legacy: ‘It’s not rocket science and it is music’

➢ Slashed! Wallinger’s knife demonstrates a 25% cut on a Turner masterpiece

➢ Anna declares McQueen a pioneer of dreams and drama

➢ The 1980s: A new history of that most turbulent of decades which sounded a knell for the mining industry

➢ Robinson takes the Cowell shilling — so whose bum is on the throne at Popjustice?

➢ Egghead versus bimbo: Paglia demolishes Gaga

➢ The xx steal away with the Mercury Music Prize … a quiet storm for uncertain times

➤ In the face of Cowell X-culture, Polhemus discovers the style supermarket afresh

Street Style, Ted Polhemus, the Book Club, PYMCA,Viva Las Vegas Festival

Street cred: Janette Beckman’s cover shot of the rude-boy twins, Chuka & Dubem Okonkwo, shot for The Face in London 1980. Right, two 50s fans at the Viva Las Vegas Festival, USA 2006. Photograph © Tim Scott/PYMCA

❚ IN ITS FIFTH ANNIVERSARY ISSUE, i-D MAGAZINE asked its photo-gallery of People of the 80s to sum up that year, 1985. Shapersofthe80s replied: “It is the year the style supermarket repackaged the previous four as an over-the-counter culture.” What was being signalled was the end of the Swinging 80s, the symbolic sub-cultural “decade” which had seen Soho become the crucible for new sounds and new styles as they broke free from the stadium-rock and post-punk past. 1985 saw a torrent of colour and attitude and tunes drive the mainstream of British youth culture that then came to characterise the “Thatcher decade”, at best personified by Stock Aitken Waterman, and at worst traduced by nightclub impresario Peter Stringfellow.

Ted Polhemus, Street Style, PYMCA

Polhemus as 70s hippie — wardrobe master for Starsky and Hutch, or his idea of irony?

Tonight in Shoreditch, the new London pool of cool, an eponymous exhibition opens to launch an updated edition of Street Style, the 1994 picture book by Ted Polhemus that celebrated the style-tribes which postwar Britain’s class-ridden society excelled at evolving, from mods and rockers, to goths and casuals, to ravers and what he called riot grrrls (which inevitably invoked the dread term bricolage, so much more cultural studies than saying DIY). Publication coincided then with a groovy exhibition around the V&A costume court.

Images and graphics from the new Street Style inevitably feature many of our original Shapers of the 80s, if current Facebook twitterings are any indication. These are being exhibited (Sep 30-Oct 31)  in the former Victorian warehouse in EC2 refurbished as The Book Club. Polhemus’s new publisher is PYMCA, the Photographic Youth Music Culture Archive which was established in 1997 by Jon Swinstead, brains behind Jockey Slut and Sleazenation. His aim was “to create a collection of images that capture the real essence of life as a young person”. PYMCA was launched this spring as a research resource, having teamed up with leading cultural commentators to offer detailed analyses of youth subcultures, music and movements around the world. Swinstead maintains: “PYMCA is both edgy and documentary and the newest material will visually reflect the hottest stuff happening among the youth of today.”

Next month Polhemus, the self-styled “anthropologist, author and photographer extraordinaire”, leads a discussion at The Book Club titled “Supermarket of Style in the 21st century” (Oct 27, tickets £8). This is the theme that introduces his new book and which he calls “his latest theory”. Well, better late than never! The supermarket has certainly entertained us for 25 years but a general consensus agrees that Britain’s youthful creative juices finally ran dry in the noughties as Cowell X-culture came to dominate our televised lives. Presumably Ted has fresh observations to offer…

Rockabilly, Paul Sturridge, Ted Polhemus,Dale Cammack, Susan Cammack

The no-socks “hard times” style promulgated by the itinerant Dirtbox club-nights: The ever-photogenic Paul Sturridge caught in 1984 with Dale and Susan Cammack, plus his Volvo Amazon outside the Chelsea Potter. From the Street Style exhibition at the V&A, photographed © by Ted Polhemus

AT THE EVENT, STURRIDGE CATCHES THE MOMENT . . .

Chuka Okonkwo, Dubem Okonkwo , Theola Sturridge, Street Style

At the book launch: cover stars the Okonkwo twins with Theola Sturridge. Photograph © by Paul Sturridge

Theola Sturridge, Paul Sturridge, Street Style

A lifetime later: Paul Sturridge with daughter Theola beneath the photo of him in his “hard times” guise. Photograph © by Paul Sturridge

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➤ Egan on Bowie’s legacy: ‘It’s not rocket science and it is music’

Today The Thin White Duke walks tall again — the god, the brand, the signifier — the three-in-one trinity that is David Bowie fired up one of the great transformative albums of the 70s, Station to Station. His 10th in a studio, it is now re-released in special edition 3-CD box set.

Bowie as The Man Who Fell to Earth, a 1976 film by Nicolas Roeg, based on the Walter Tevis novel about a humanoid alien who crash-lands on Earth. © Rex

This month the German journalist Finn Johannsen interviewed the club deejay and co-founder of the Blitz Club, Rusty Egan for the Nokia blog, Sounds Like Me. He discusses Bowie’s seminal role in 70s and 80s music, describes a typical night out at the Blitz, and what today’s clubbers can take from such an innovative chapter of music-making. Here’s a taster…

Rusty Egan, Blitz club

Rusty Egan at the Blitz, 1980: rare pic of him spinning the discs

FJ — David Bowie was always famous for continuously reinventing his career, but did this phase particularly appeal to you?

RE — Bowie’s Berlin years I believe were the foundation of the Blitz club playlist. Via Bowie I found Kraftwerk, and that lead to Neu!, Can, Cluster and Krautrock, as it was called. Bryan Ferry then led to the work of Brian Eno, and his ambient series … All this music lead to the basis of my collection. If you join the dots Bowie, Eno, Iggy, Kraftwerk, Mick Ronson, Lou Reed.

FJ — It is obvious that Bowie was heavily influenced by German experimental groups like Kraftwerk or Neu! How much of them can be found in Low and Heroes?

RE — Massive influences. Bowie is a SONGWRITER. Without songs you have music. The Germans made amazing music without lyrics. It was experimental because of the instruments used and the long, long tracks. Bowie took the basis of this experimental music and the growing feelings evoked by Möbius, Cluster, Can, Neu! and went into Hansa studios by the Wall and with Brian Eno created the Berlin sound. Heroes sung in German as Helden is a perfect example. Six minutes long, but what were the instruments used? Can you hear guitar, bass and drums? Nothing but a long, long tone changing and changing… It’s not rocket science and it is music.

➢ Read the full Egan interview at Sounds Like Me

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2010 ➤ Robinson takes the Cowell shilling — so whose bum is on the throne at Popjustice?

X Factor, X magazine, launch, Kelly Clarkson, American Idol, Simon Cowell

From the makers of The X Factor: a new magazine, edited by the man who toyed with Kelly Clarkson like a cat with a mouse

❚ WE LOVE HIM, THEY LOATHE HIM, the worst of them. One of the most influential and passionate commentors on the pop scene appears to have jumped ship in the direction of Simon Cowell’s entertainment goldmine. Peter Robinson, the 30-something wag and one-man Girls Aloud fanclub, has made his Popjustice blog a compelling read for fans who favour his surreal version of the truth, but a gunk tank for stars who imagine there’s any such thing as an even break.

Yet this morning’s Media Guardian unequivocally describes him as “formerly” the editor of PJ, while announcing the launch of X magazine, whose own website gives him the title of Senior Editor there. Sounds like a golden-handshake welcome to X which is to be the weekly print offshoot of the Cowell TV franchise, The X Factor. A 100-page launch issue appears tomorrow to coincide with series seven of the ITV talent show, and distribution is initially through Tesco supermarkets, price £1.95, even when the show is off-air.

Peter Robinson, Popjustice, previously editor, formerly editor,Senior Editor, X magazine

"Senior Editor" of X magazine: no, not the Peter Robinson who dresses as Marilyn, the other Peter Robinson

A “surprising” level of access to contestants is promised, though Robinson is reported to have feared that X would be “pretty much a glorified fan magazine”. The big cheese at its publisher, Haymarket Media Group, convinced him that the owners were happy for X to “not always toe the party line”. Some might think this a risky ploy. Is the cheese actually familiar with the Robinson technique? Does the cheese know how often his notoriously cringe-making interviews must have turned a star to jelly? In fact, has the cheese read the all-time car-crash sofa-chat Robinson conducted with American Idol winner Kelly Clarkson? In which he provoked her to confess: “I’m not a man and I don’t claim to be.”

There hasn’t been a decent mag purely about pop since the upstart Smash Hits doled out respect and ridicule in equal measure. It ran for almost three decades as a fortnightly, shuffling off-stage only in 2006. Channel 4’s Popworld spin-off died after two issues in 2007. Nevertheless, according to another Haymarket cheese, women’s weeklies are reckoned to be on “vibrant” form, and Robinson is talking up his new title: “Our editorial team is the strongest of any British pop magazine in almost 20 years and this certainly feels like the biggest pop magazine launch in Justin Bieber’s lifetime.”

Robinson was working as a freelance in 2000 when, for the love of it, he founded Popjustice as a music site with attitude. He has overseen its successful monetisation in cahoots with w00tmedia, and bolted on a record label called Popjustice Hi-Fi. The Times reckons PR is one of the music industry’s Top 20 star makers while The Observer rated Popjustice the world’s most powerful music blog. So has he truly relinquished the crown after 10 years? No, of course not! What? Give up the most powerful throne in pop? That was just “a mistake/assumption on Media Guardian’s part” PR assures us. Not for nothing have hacks long dubbed it the good old “Grauniad”! So rest assured that a familiar bum stills sits in the PJ hotseat, while steering the pop universe with his left hand.

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2010 ➤ Egghead versus bimbo: Paglia demolishes Gaga

Lady Gaga,sexual revolution,demolition job

Lady Gaga in performance: does she mark the end of the sexual revolution?

Camille Paglia,Hurricane Camille,Lady Gaga,death of sex

Paglia the hurricane

❚ CAMILLE PAGLIA describes herself as a “dissident feminist”. Others have dubbed her “Hurricane Camille”. With a PhD from Yale, she is one of America’s brightest women, variously expressing iconoclastic opinions as a social philosopher, cultural critic, author and educator who believes that most women are bisexual. Her powers of reasoning mean that she is not easily dismissed. So when in today’s Sunday Times Magazine she detonates a dynamite demolition job on the popstar Lady Gaga, we should perhaps take notice. She argues that Gaga is “sexually dysfunctional”, and marks the end of the sexual revolution. Then she savages Gaga’s “little monster” fans. Here are Paglia’s juiciest soundbites:

❏ “Despite showing acres of pallid flesh in the fetish-bondage garb of urban prostitution, Gaga isn’t sexy at all — she’s like a gangly marionette or plasticised android.”

❏ “How could a figure so calculated and artificial, so clinical and strangely antiseptic, so stripped of genuine eroticism have become the icon of her generation? Can it be that Gaga represents the exhausted end of the sexual revolution?”

❏ “For Gaga, sex is mainly decor and surface; she’s like a laminated piece of ersatz rococo furniture. Alarmingly, Generation Gaga can’t tell the difference. Is it the death of sex?”

❏ “Drag queens, whom Gaga professes to admire, are usually far sexier in many of her over-the-top outfits than she is.”

Stefani Germanotta,Lady Gaga,MTV

Stefani Joanne Angelina Germanotta: as brunette herself on MTV's Boiling Points in 2005, and as Lady Gaga last year, blonde but without make-up

❏ “Marlene and Madonna gave the impression, true or false, of being pansexual. Gaga, for all her writhing and posturing, is asexual.”

❏ “Most of her worshippers seem to have had little or no contact with such powerful performers as Tina Turner or Janis Joplin, with their huge personalities and deep wells of passion.”

❏ “Generation Gaga doesn’t identify with powerful vocal styles because their own voices have atrophied: they communicate mutely via a constant stream of atomised, telegraphic text messages. Gaga’s fans are marooned in a global technocracy of fancy gadgets but emotional poverty.”

➢ To read the rest of Paglia’s appraisal of Gaga visit The Sunday Times Magazine

‘Now, come on, people, do you really believe that Lady Gaga is 23 years old?’

➢ In her Salon column last November 10, Camille Paglia threw out this invective:

❏ “Do you really believe that Lady Gaga is 23 years old? I’ve been in advanced doubt about it for a while, particularly after seeing this ‘Rare pictures!’ video of early photos of her hanging with some mighty tough critters. (A friend of mine said of Gaga in this vid: ‘Too many miles of bad road there.’) I think Gaga was a hell of a lot sexier as a fun Italian-American brunette. This artificial, masklike, over-the-top Club Kids thing that she’s now into seems compulsive and wearily passé. Give it a rest, and focus on the music!”

➢ Tuesday top-up from the throne-room at Popjustice:

Camille Paglia wrote a big thing about Lady Gaga for the Sunday Times. Some of her points were good but a lot of it felt like she was writing the article for the benefit of one reader — Madonna — and most of the good bits were buried by an avalanche of General Missingthepointness. We particularly love an outraged Paglia railing against Lady Gaga for “rudely” wearing sunglasses in interviews, and the idea that Lady Gaga has gone on tour to escape scrutiny (?!). Give it a rest Paggo.

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