Category Archives: Fashion

2026 ➤ Seven definitive books about the 80s subcultural revolution in the UK

Posted on 1 Jun 2026 | Leave a comment

❚ All you need to know about the New Romantics
revolution of the 1980s is covered in each of these
books which is definitive in its own way. . .

* 78-87 LONDON YOUTH, by Derek Ridgers (Damiani, 2013) – Generous and compassionate straight-up photography at the street level of daily life captures the “looks” that set people apart.

* SOUVENIRS, by Stephen Jones (Rizzoli International, 2016) – Pictures of his playful and compelling hats accompany the life story of milliner Stephen Jones, from St Martin’s School of Art to every key designer runway over four decades.

* BLITZ, The club that created the 80s, by Robert Elms (Faber & Faber, 2025) – “Unofficial catalogue” for the Blitz Club exhibition in September 2025 at London’s Design Museum, according to its curator. The time-travel broadcaster and writer Elms was a key influencer when individualism redefined nightclubbing.

* POP STARS IN MY PANTRY, by Paul Simper (Unbound, 2017) – The columnist and TV writer Simper stumbled across an early Spandau Ballet gig to become an essential part of the British pop scene ever since. He had his own crack at the charts in the ill-fated disco duo Slippry Feet.

* WE CAN BE HEROES: London Clubland 1976-1984, by Graham Smith and Chris Sullivan (Unbound 2011) – The most personal gallery by photographer Smith in an elegant hardback, with insightful text throughout by club host Sullivan, a key Shaper of the 80s who ran the Wag for 18 years and charted with his band Blue Rondo a la Turk.

* If I was…, by Midge Ure (Virgin Books, 2004&5) – This remains a superb and frank autobiography by the weathervane of synth-pop who helped shape the British New Wave with Ultravox as probably the first active player of a synth among any of his clubbing pals. He earned an OBE for being half the brains behind Band Aid’s smash hit for charity in 1984, Do They Know It’s Christmas? the song that became, for 13 years, the biggest selling UK single of all time.

* NIGHTLIFE REBELS: How New Romantics Ignited the 80s, by David Johnson, featuring photographs by Derek Ridgers (self-published, 2025) – Two seasoned eye-witnesses watched Britain’s young ignite a glittering subcultural revolution… As a Fleet Street journalist I explored their intriguing carnival of style-setting cults across Britain, Paris and New York, while straight-up photographer Derek Ridgers captured the libertines in their dark dens, illustrating many of my own reports in The Face mag’s early years. . . Our elegant illustrated hardback NIGHTLIFE REBELS celebrates the 19-year-old hedonists who insisted “One look lasts a day” while becoming the latest British pop stars with more acts in the US Billboard charts than the 1960s ever achieved. Featuring unseen pictures, stats, a unique timeline and Who Really Was Who. . . “Some nights it was like walking into Hieronymus Bosch’s Garden of Earthly Delights,” says Ridgers. And Johnson: “The whole spectacle shouted newness. This chapter was about youthful talent and personal success, not about worshipping rock gods in a stadium.”

[ Order through my online address –
nightlife.rebels [a t] shapersofthe80s.com ]

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2026 ➤ What made Molly the inimitable

Posted on 6 Jan 2026 | Leave a comment

Molly Parkin, Darren Coffield, painters, BP Portrait Award, NPG

Molly Parkin, Welsh painter, journalist, novelist and turban-clad muse to generations of style-worshippers. Painted by Darren Coffield, she was besporting herself at the National Portrait Gallery during 2010

MOLLY PARKIN 3 FEB 1932 – 5 JAN 2026

❚ SO SAD TO HEAR OF MOLLY’S PASSING AGED 93. She was my first great mentor when I joined the avant-garde magazine Nova in my first professional job… and in 1973 was able to give her an uninhibited weekly interview spot in the trend-setting Saturday edition of the Evening Standard which rattled the window panes!

In the 1950s Molly Parkin passed through Goldsmiths and Brighton art colleges painting and teaching. As a painter she enjoyed sell-out exhibitions up to the day she threw out her husband Michael and gave up art for the next four decades. From 1965, she became an arbiter of Swinging 60s style as fashion editor of Nova – one of the six postwar magazines that changed the face of British publishing. She liberated fashion journalism from the tyranny of high society, moving on through Harpers & Queen and The Sunday Times to create visionary images with a rising generation of photographers such as Peccinotti, Duffy, Sieff and Feurer. Simultaneously she was running her own Chelsea boutique and Belgravia restaurant while unwittingly inspiring the cub who set out as a trainee on Nova and would one day create Shapers of the 80s.

In the 1970s, as well as being a chat-show celebrity and libidinous novelist, she wrote for Men Only and Spare Rib, plus an interview in the Saturday Evening Standard, indulgently edited by Yours Truly, selecting candidates from her eccentric circle of hedonist friends, among whom Rose Lewis the Knightsbridge corsetiere was but typical.

In the 80s she became an honorary Blitz Kid, compered the Alternative Miss World contest, threw decadent parties every Saturday night in Chelsea and toured a solo stage show. In the 90s she had a facelift and wrote a sensational autobiography called Moll. In the Noughties she returned to extremely vibrant painting and hosted a clubnight at the Green Carnation as a Granny deejay.

In 2010, she was cover-girl on the launch issue of Eulogy, a short-lived(!) magazine dedicated to dispelling the taboos surrounding death. Her memoirs Welcome To Mollywood were published that October. Meanwhile she was exhibiting herself at the National Portrait Gallery, London, in the annual BP Portrait Award show on the noble canvas, above, by Darren Coffield, a painter and gallerist closely associated with the emergence of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement.

OBITUARIES

➢ Guardian: Artist, writer, fashion editor and raconteur whose bohemian lifestyle inspired her bonkbuster novels
➢ HeritageArtHouse: Paintings were her first
and last love – super-aware of emotion in a landscape
➢ BBC News: Parkin was fashion editor of Nova
and Harpers and Queen
➢ Independent: Fashion editor and Swinging Sixties icon

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2025 ➤ The New Romantics history book currently turning heads

Posted on 7 Oct 2025 | 1 comment

Photography, fashion, clubbing, exhibitions, Social trends, Swinging 80s, Youth culture, newbook, New Romantics, Blitz Club, Blitz Kids,

Nightlife Rebels: my new book published September 2025

❚ DURING THE SWINGING 80S two seasoned eye-witnesses watched Britain’s young ignite a glittering New Romantics revolution… As a Fleet Street journalist I explored their intriguing carnival of style-setting cults across Britain, Paris and New York, while straight-up photographer Derek Ridgers captured the libertines in their dark dens.

Our new illustrated hardback NIGHTLIFE REBELS reveals the candid history of the Blitz Club’s hedonists who insisted “One look lasts a day”. It has gone on sale at London’s Design Museum which is hosting the Blitz Club exhibition. To buy your copy online directly from the author simply email your address to:
Nightlife.Rebels@shapersofthe80s.com

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Posted in 20th century, Blitz Kids, book launch, Britain, Clubbing, Comedy, Culture, exhibitions, Fashion, History, influencers, journalism, live music, London, Media, New Romantics, photography, Pop music, Swinging 80s, Tipping points, Youth culture, zeitgeist

Tagged David Johnson, Derek Ridgers, John Maybury, Kim Bowen, Nightlife Rebels

2025 ➤ Finally a candid insight into the glittering New Romantics revolution

Posted on 5 Oct 2025 | 2 comments

Photography, fashion, clubbing, exhibitions, Social trends, Swinging 80s, Youth culture, newbook, New Romantics, Blitz Club, Nightlife Rebels, Blitz Kids, Derek Ridgers, Kim Bowen, David Johnson, John Maybury,

Contributors to Nightlife Rebels: Derek Ridgers, Kim Bowen, David Johnson and John Maybury. (Photo by David Jenkins)

❚ DURING THE SWINGING 80s two seasoned eye-witnesses watched Britain’s young ignite a glittering New Romantics revolution… Myself David Johnson as a Fleet Street journalist explored their intriguing carnival of style-setting cults across Britain, Paris and New York, while straight-up photographer Derek Ridgers captured the libertines in their dark dens.

Our new illustrated hardback NIGHTLIFE REBELS reveals the candid history of the celebrated Blitz Club’s hedonists who insisted “One look lasts a day”. Featuring unseen photos, stats, a unique timeline and Who Really Was Who.

Last week the book’s four chief contributors gathered for a team picture at London’s Design Museum where an exhibition about Blitz culture runs for six months and our book is on sale in its shop – The Design Museum. To buy your copy online directly from the author simply email your address to:
Nightlife.Rebels [a t] shapersofthe80s.com

WHAT EACH OF US SAYS ABOUT THE 80s

“Some nights it was like walking into Hieronymus Bosch’s Garden of Earthly Delights” – Photographer Derek Ridgers, top left

“A full night-time economy flourished around these clubs where graphic designers, artists, deejays, writers, producers and musicians of every kind refined and developed their skills by working with club-owners” – Stylist and costume designer Kim Bowen, former Queen of the Blitz, second left

“In the shabby Blitz wine bar on Tuesdays precocious 19-year-olds presented an eye-stopping collage, posing away in wondrous ensembles, emphatic make-up and in-flight haircuts. This spectacle shouted newness” – Journalist David Johnson, third along

“Being photographed served as a kind of affirmation that your particular ‘look’ set you apart as a somebody” – Video artist John Maybury, and former Blitz star, pictured right

Photography, fashion, clubbing, Social trends, Swinging 80s, Youth culture, newbook, New Romantics, Blitz Club, Blitz Kids, David Johnson, Design Museum, Blitz Club exhibition,

There’s our book on the second shelf at the Design Museum: Dare we assume the two lads thumbing through the options might have been Blitz Kids back in the day? (Photo by Shapersofthe80s)

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s: Here’s an extravaganza of a show to confirm the Blitz Kids’ place in history

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Posted in Blitz Kids, book launch, Clubbing, dance music, exhibitions, Fashion, History, influencers, journalism, London, New Romantics, nightlife, photography, Pop music, Social trends, Swinging 80s, Youth culture, zeitgeist

Tagged David Johnson, Derek Ridgers, John Maybury, Kim Bowen, Nightlife Rebels

2025 ➤ Here’s an extravaganza of a show to confirm the Blitz Kids’ place in history

Posted on 21 May 2025 | Leave a comment

Blitz Kids, Clubbing, exhibitions, Fashion, influencers, London, New Romantics, Swinging 80s, Youth culture, Blitz Kids, Design Museum,

Blitz Club host Steve Strange: Posing outside his club with Visage and friends in 1979 – today promoting an exhibition. (Detail from photo by Sheila Rock)

❚ A HANDFUL OF EVER-STYLISH CLUBLAND POSERS stepped forward this week to help London’s Design Museum to announce its autumn exhibition titled Blitz: the club that shaped the 80s. It has been developed in close collaboration with the leading Blitz Kid and later costume designer Fiona Dealey, plus broadcaster Robert Elms, Spandau Ballet’s manager Steve Dagger and music executive Graham Ball, formerly one of Dagger’s firm – three clubland contemporaries who were the least like die-hard Blitz Kids! The trendy Tuesday clubnight which opened in Covent Garden’s Blitz wine bar in 1979 is best known as home to the New Romantics movement which revolutionised Eighties youth culture across fashion, music, media, film, art, design and retail.

The chapter some of us dubbed the Pose Age launched the careers of many talents, from hosts Steve Strange (who died in 2015) and deejay Rusty Egan to popstars Spandau Ballet, Visage, Boy George, Sade, Andy Polaris, and Marilyn, as well as key influencers Perry Haines, Chris Sullivan, Midge Ure, Iain Webb, and stylist Kim Bowen, couture milliner Stephen Jones and Game of Thrones costume designer Michele Clapton, deejay Princess Julia, Darla Jane Gilroy, Stephen Linard, Melissa Caplan, Judith Frankland, Dinny Hall, John Maybury, Cerith Wyn Evans, Simon Withers, Ollie O’Donnell, Richard Ostell, Paul Sturridge, Franceska King, Milly Dwit, Vivienne Lynn, Theresa Thurmer, Lesley Chilkes, David Holah and a hundred more.

Press call: Tim Marlow, Robert Elms, Danielle Thom and Rusty Egan

The exhibition will feature over 250 items, many unseen by the public, ranging from clothing and accessories, design sketches, musical instruments, flyers, magazines, furniture, artworks, photography, vinyl records and rare film footage.

Yesterday’s press launch at the Groucho club proved one of the liveliest in a long while with spontaneous banter between the Museum director Tim Marlow, Robert Elms, Rusty Egan and curator Danielle Thom. They promised a sensory extravaganza which will surprise us when we walk into the exhibition.

Among other things, Elms reminded us how young his pals all were: “We were called Blitz Kids because we were kids, almost no one over the age of 21 – some of us 16/17… Most of us were really young and creative but also really mischievous. One of the things about the Blitz is that it’s sometimes portrayed as a bit po-faced, all these people posing – we were certainly doing that but it was anything but po-faced. It was scurrilous, dangerous, naughty, it was sexy, all those things.

The Last Word: Robert Elms entertains museum director Tim Marlow (not to mention Groucho Marx, at rear)

“Rusty provided this wonderful backdrop. He never played too loud, so people could dance but at the front end you could still talk. I could get Steve Dagger in my ear saying ‘We’re going to take over the world!’ It wasn’t a disco but a club in the best sense of the word, of like-minded individuals.”

Egan proved as sentimental as ever, reminding us of the legacy of the 1970s: “A hundred kids were coming in on a Tuesday night in the Winter of Discontent. It was a very miserable time, it was also really miserable to be not sure if you’re a boy or a girl but ‘Hey man, Let’s go out into the night’ – and as a DJ I played songs which said ‘He was a she and then, Hey babe, take a walk on the wild side’ … Lyrics were very important as they were for the Rolling Stones in 1977 when disco was get up, stand up, boogie oogie. We wanted lyrics.”

Elms had the last word on the Blitz as the event came to an end: “My mates were quite cool. There were a couple of hundred Herberts and urchins, over-dressed, undervalued, who actually went on to define the decade. This is our place in history and this exhibition is overdue. It’s a recognition that this wasn’t just a load of silly kids with high hair.”

➢ Blitz: the club that shaped the 80s runs from
20 Sept 2025 until 29 March 2026 at the Design Museum
in Kensington. Tickets on sale now.

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