Tag Archives: Steve Strange

2011 ➤ Pay now — so We Can Be Heroes goes ahead!

1980: Clare Thom, Philip Sallon and George O’Dowd on a coach trip to Margate. Photograph by Graham Smith/grsmith@mac.com.jpg from his book We Can Be Heroes

WE CAN BE HEROES
must be funded by November 12 17 [update]

❚ NOBODY IS BETTER QUALIFIED to chronicle the whirlwind six years between punk and the death of the New Romantics than Graham Smith through his eye-witness photography, and the writer Chris Sullivan, one of the core movers-and-shapers of his generation. UK music and style evolved out of all recognition in a mighty resurgence of youth subcultures that directly triggered a rejuvenation of mainstream media for the rest of the decade. Shapersofthe80s was on hand as an observer. But these two wags were in the thick of the action — major players in a spontaneous youthful collaboration to regenerate the UK’s ailing music and style scenes as 1980 dawned. With contributions by a galaxy of stars, who include Gary Kemp and Boy George, this will become the definitive story of one of the great explosions of creativity in British youth culture.

The authors aim to get their large-format 320-page coffee-table photobook We Can Be Heroes to you in time for Christmas. Their “crowd-funding” venture requires them to raise the cash first by asking YOU to buy your copy in advance, before 6pm GMT on November 12 17. Your reward is to see your name printed as a Supporter in the limited first edition. The clock is ticking.

View Graham’s video today at Unbound Publishing, a new company under the patronage of Faber, the most prestigious publisher in Britain. Here you can purchase your book and enjoy other perks such as an invitation to the launch party. Join the clubbers at Facebook who are submitting their own photos and tales of merriment.

➢ Twitter directly with the publisher, Unbound

READ WHAT HAS ALREADY BEEN SAID
ABOUT WE CAN BE HEROES

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➢ Unbound aims for 40 books in year one … Supported by Faber, the platform was created by QI writers John Mitchinson and John Pollard, and Crap Towns author Dan Kieran — The Bookseller

➢ Funded by the people — Channel 4 News video on “crowdfunding”, the process that decides when and how Graham’s book gets published

➢ Why creative clubbing ended with the 80s — the credentials that equipped Smithy, Sullivan and Elms (and a few other crazies) to start changing the world

➢ Boy George says the 70s were the best time ever to be a teenager — and Tweets that “it’s a brilliant book about the New Romantics! Really!” He has also written a foreword in We Can Be Heroes. (So have Gary Kemp, Steve Strange and Robert Elms)

➢ A slideshow of Graham’s Blitz-era gems at Guardian online

➢ Thirty years of punk and post-punk photo imagery — by Disneyrollergirl, one of The Times’ 40 bloggers who count

➢ Huffington Post: All about 1980s club kids — former Blitz Kid and Times fashion editor Iain R Webb writes about Bowie’s impact on the Blitz scene

➢ A legacy that has inspired each decade since the 80s — Princesss Julia, international deejay and fabulous Blitz Club coat-check girl, writes for i-D about stripping away the posers’ facade

➢ Update Nov 6: priceless storytelling about 80s mayhem with Elms and Sullivan on video

➢ Promo video for Blue Jean (1984) starring David Bowie as Screamin’ Lord Byron before a London clubland audience … Below is the alternate version of Blue Jean for MTV, starring Bowie and the Aliens, shot live before an audience in Soho’s Wag club, which was hosted for 19 years by Chris Sullivan

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➤ A taste of the 80s Blitz Kids — this photo book captures their unseen glory

Sullivan and Smith at last night's exhibition: man in the middle is king of the posers and Blitz Club host, Steve Strange. Photography by Shapersofthe80s

❚ THE HEROES SHOW IS ON THE ROAD. As of last night the Smith/Sullivan definitive history of 80s clubbing We Can Be Heroes had raised 36% of its “crowd-funding” target required to ensure publication goes ahead. Hence last night’s selling exhibition of Graham Smith’s photography from 30 years ago, most of which has never been seen. His family and friends joined the slebs at the party (video below) hosted by Inside Events in Notting Hill.

Smith said his favourite image on sale last night was on the cover of the book: showing Blitz Kids Clare Thom and a scene-stealing George O’Dowd claiming centre stage by gesturing with both hands and competely masking the face of the second girl beside him, designer Michele Clapton. (Prints are priced from £150 to £450 according to size — inquire by mailing to grsmith [@] mac.com)

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Smith was in the thick of the New Romantic underground taking photos as London nightclubbing revolutionised British pop music and made stars out of Boy George, Sade, Spandau Ballet and scores more new bands. Sullivan was a key player as stylist, host of Soho’s infamous Wag club for 19 years and leader of Blue Rondo à la Turk who had a 1982 chart hit with the soundtrack to our video, Klacto Vee Sed Stein. Broadcaster Robert Elms has written an intro, and there are forewords by Boy George, Steve Strange and Gary Kemp.

The 21st-century way to publish high-quality, short-run numbered editions is to secure sales in advance of publication. So visit Unbound Publishing to place your order which will secure your name in the first edition — and other perks.

Graham Smith in selling mode: can he persuade 22-year-old Bill de Melowood to buy his print of Steve Strange drinking with a bunch of Cardiff dockers? Photography by Shapersofthe80s

Partying family: Graham Smith and wife Lorraine at right, with their daughter Carla and boyfie John. Photography by Shapersofthe80s

❏ iPAD, TABLET & MOBILE USERS PLEASE NOTE — You may see only a tiny selection of items from this wide-ranging website about the 1980s, not chosen by the author. To access fuller background features and site index either click on “Standard view” or visit Shapersofthe80s.com on a desktop computer. ➢ Click here to visit a different random item every time you click

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1976–1984 ➤ Creative clubbing ended with the 80s and Smithy’s book needs your help to tell the tale

Michele Clapton, Graham Smith, Le Beat Route, Chant No 1, video, We Can Be Heroes, photography, youth culture, Unbound,books,

Graham Smith gets Spandau Ballet in his sights during the filming for their Chant No 1 video at Le Beat Route in July 1981: his then girlfriend fashion designer Michele Clapton sizes up the Shapersofthe80s camera technique, and it’s true that Smithy did walk away with more pix in focus than we managed

❚ THREE FROM A SELECT PLATOON of musketeers who hustled and toughed their way through the vile swamp of the 1970s, then through the gilded portals of the 80s, met up in a BBC radio studio today to reminisce about their larks as teenagers in London. They were plugging a new book titled We Can Be Heroes, the most inspirational of David Bowie’s songlines, so we’re already talking outsiders, groomed by 1976’s punk ethos of do-it-yourself whose fashion statement had been expressed through the medium of trousers.

➢ Hear today’s discussion about
We Can Be Heroes with Elms, Smith and Sullivan
at BBC London 94.9 (starts at 30 mins in)

Their coffee-table book looks set to be the definitive account of 80s clubbing, told through previously unseen photographs and anecdotes from fellow musketeers who propelled the Blitz Club bandwagon and transformed British music, fashion, nightlife and much of the media. They are the very pioneering spirits Shapersofthe80s has tried to document and honour on this website, but where your reporter was always the observer looking in, the 100 or more boys and girls contributing to this new book were themselves the workers of the miracles in 1980. They are more entitled to tell the tale than the pompous writers of pop-cultural history who were never there as witnesses (one “author” plagiarised my own coverage of the 80s ruthlessly, reportage and analysis, without giving one word of credit). As a breed, they have chronicled the dawn of the 80s dismally. What they always miss is the ribald fun of staying up all night. We Can Be Heroes might just get this chapter of British history right, for once.

After the post-punk wave of electronic, industrial and synth-pop had redefined the scope of a new soundtrack for UK youth through Billy’s, The Blitz and select clubs up North, Chris Sullivan, Graham Smith and Robert Elms determined to nudge musical tastes in a more hummable direction. They created a fork in the branch of clubbing’s evolutionary tree by developing the then novel notion of one-nighters with three successive ventures during 1980, at St Moritz, Hell and Le Kilt. (Remember, long before Time Out had nightlife listings pages, London offered only one hip club-night per week.) At these three the dance rhythms were drawn from prewar musicals, rockabilly, Latin and funk, and sartorial styles shifted swiftly and dramatically from futurist to Hollywood romance. Bobbing in the wake of art-school theories about deconstruction, their clubnights were in themselves a fightback against the top-down dictates of middle-aged moguls in fashion, music and media. Just like Alexei Sayle and the “alternative” comedians making their reputations live at The Comic Strip in 1980, fury was addressed to the marketing of trendiness itself.

Chris Sullivan, club-host, deejay, Wag club, Blue Rondo, pop music,We Can Be Heroes, youth culture,

At home in Kentish Town Chris Sullivan chooses the right zootsuit for today’s mood: his wardrobe is legendary, his taste impeccable, and his influence immeasurable. Shapersofthe80s shot this for his first Evening Standard interview in June 1981

❚ I ALWAYS SAID THEY’D DO WELL, especially that Chris Sullivan, oh yes. I said it when this imposing and pointedly stylish Welshman first shook my hand in Rumours, Covent Garden’s trendiest bar in 1980, and made some tart remark about the lowlifers who produced the newspaper sticking out of my pocket, the Evening Standard, until I mentioned I was one of them, when he very kindly decided to discount me personally because I’d been sharp enough to find my way into the same bar as him, so, welcome, and he’d have a Carlsberg thanks very much (all lagers being equally bland and boring then, not having yet matured into status drinks).

It was all a wind-up. He’d been told exactly what I did for a living, and I thought, he’ll go far. And waddayaknow? One day he’d be a cossack, then he’d be Maurice Chevalier, then he was reinventing the zootsuit while doing fashion at St Martin’s. Next day he was singing and dancing into the pop charts in Blue Rondo à la Turk — the daftest seven-piece “bunch of nutters” (his words) Britain had seen since Edmundo Ros. Suddenly, and for the next two decades, he was hosting the Wag as the hippest club in the land that played the hippest black music. As he said on the radio today: “Since when would somebody put a 22-year-old working-class bloke like me in charge of one of the biggest West End nightclubs? We were all kids. We went out and had a go. Empowerment is what’s important about this story.” In the past he has expressed great satisfaction at denying entry to the Wag for the smugger elements in the rock press — those “white middle-class punks who couldn’t dance and hated black music” and destroyed the prospects for his band Blue Rondo.

Ultimately Sullivan became a journalist, much in demand across all sectors of the press, while remaining a leading club deejay. It’s an understatement to call him a character. Elms today acknowledged that, as much as anyone in the country, Sullivan “was at the forefront of all of this”. Frankly, I’m happy to acknowledge him as the Number One shaper of the subcultural 80s in the UK, principally for his energy, his impeccable taste and a million-and-one nuanced responses to the society around him — plus one of the longest and most influential of contact books. Best of all: he also laughs a lot.

❚ THAT BOB ELMS WAS ANOTHER ONE you didn’t want to shut up. It wasn’t a criticism to call him a motormouth because most of what he said was hugely entertaining as we stood at one of the rare bars with a 1am drinks licence in those days, usually accompanied by a couple of other movers and shapers evaluating the ever-evolving hairstyles and footwear in a club (“No, it’s not just a white sock. It’s a sock with a Mod legacy.”) Britain’s subcultural heritage and all associated musical soundtracks were the adrenaline that drove him to trace roots, analyse trends and formulate preposterous ideas about The Next Big Thing, just like a journalist, or indeed the LSE politics graduate he became.

Robert Elms, We Can Be Heroes, youth culture, books,Unbound,

Robert Elms on the train to Glasgow and his future: We were heading for Blue Rondo’s Scottish gigs on the day their first single Me and Mr Sanchez was released, Nov 6, 1981. He’s sporting the haircut that won him the audition to front TV yoof shows. © Shapersofthe80s

He’ll go far, I thought, he’ll be the next Benny Green (look him up!). And you know what? Two minutes later he was all over the coolest magazine ever, The Face, chronicling the exceedingly noisy and high-visibility youth movement known as the New Romantics, whilst adjusting his own natty garb to suit and, yes, throwing out a catchy name for a pop group, Spandau Ballet, which legend says the pals had conjured from graffiti glimpsed on their journey of discovery to Berlin in 1979.

It was definitely his wacky brushcut that got him in front of TV cameras as one of the first cockney-sparra presenters on the street-cred yoof shows that 80s media churned out in response to the revolution that came surging up from the dance underground. As somebody never short of an opinion, he too was always up there among the top shapers of his age, so it was an effortless morph from style arbiter to author and travel writer Robert Elms, who landed the plummest job in local radio 20 long years ago at the BBC’s London station, and only yesterday was also being one of Radio 4’s “own correspondents” reporting the last bullfight in Barcelona.

As predicted, Elms has inevitably grown into a dead ringer for man-of-the- people, the late lamented Benny Green, jazz-lover, raconteur for his dandy tribe, talking head on Stop the Week/Loose Ends and all-round good egg.

siouxsie sioux,punk rock, Graham Smith, We Can Be Heroes, youth culture, books, Unbound

Siouxsie and the Banshees, photographed in 1977 by Graham Smith, from his book We Can Be Heroes. Souxsie was an original member of the Bromley Contingent that led Graham and his mates into the clubs of Soho

❚ THEN THERE’S THE QUIET ONE with the cheery smile. That Graham Smith, nice lad (before the third pint). (Only kidding, Graham. Still nice even after the 16th.) Always carried a camera. Funnily enough he carried the same state-of-the-art Olympus OM2 SLR as me, and we were both trying to get the hang of Ilford’s HP5, a superduper fast new B&W film that was so sensitive it meant you could shoot in nightclubs without a flash, well, in theory. You did tend to end up with a lot of blurry images, but the trouble was if you used a flash you just got a frame full of bright ghouls for faces and it was years before I dared ask the paparazzo Richard Young for the secret of shooting nightclubbers with flash from about 3 feet without bleaching them into ghosts. (Answer: stop right down to f22 and push the film in the developer — crucial advice in 1980 and totally without meaning to today’s digital snapper.) One of the reasons most of our pix are in B&W was because there was no colour film in 1980 that didn’t require equatorial amounts of sunlight, so shooting nightlife was a black art.

When I met him Smithy was already designing the publicity and taking the artful first band snaps of Spandau Ballet, so when his minimalist record sleeves counted as coursework and won him a first-class degree from Camberwell, I thought, he’ll go far. He then did the same for our clubbing friend Sade, the fashion designer who became a global icon as a singer, and in time he won awards as a magazine art director.

He and his lovely wife Lorraine met on a dancefloor and still have the hots for the arcane dance moves of Northern Soul. So it’s more than apt that today he’s the prime mover behind this coffee-table book packed with 500 of the immaculate, usually in-focus pix from his youth, most of which have lain in a dusty old box unseen by anybody since they were shot. What he’s bravely done over the past two years is interrogate dozens of the other clubbing musketeers, mentalists and Blitz Kids for their first-hand versions of how the 80s shaped their lives, and turned dozens of them into popstars and household names with their hands on the levers of power.

Brighton, Papillon, toga party, soul boys, soul girls, soul music,dancing,nightclubbing

1979 toga party at the Papillon, Brighton: these were the soul boys and soul girls who made the British dance scene spin. Photograph by Paul Clark at Facebook

❚ ELMS HAS KNOWN SMITH since he was 11 and Sullivan since 16. All are now family men and feeling 50, hence the need to spill the beans before they forget. Despite my own efforts (sob!) writing a nightlife column in The Face, and later with Shapersofthe80s online, Smithy doesn’t think his generation’s teenage achievements have been adequately reported as a slice of social history. He’s thinking of that fabulous book on the 60s Mods. In all honesty, he’s right. In late 1980 I walked into both Omnibus and Proteus with a proposal for a tome about the nightlife revolution titled “Heroes For the 80s”, evidently too ahead of the curve for them to take a risk with this newcomer, who was then rightly miffed only months later to see The Book With No Name emerge from one of their in-house teams! Ouch. Since then, I have told the 80s creation myth in outline many times — most fully though even so with necessary shortcuts in The birth of the New Romantics for the Observer Music Monthly — and we have had a handful of individual biographies, the most gripping being by Midge Ure and Gary Kemp (and the most horrific by Boy George). But the saga of 80s clubland really belongs to the teenage dance fiends and soul fans who had amassed in the 70s and set sprung maple floors a-bouncing across the nation.

Birth of the New Romantics — The Observer Music Monthly, Oct 4, 2009. Pictures © by Derek Ridgers

Historians and rock journalists from middle-class backgrounds by and large don’t have a clue why social mobility is an impossible dream among what’s traditionally called the working class. In today’s interview Sullivan reminded us that the trio behind We Can Be Heroes all came from working-class homes (except that Smith’s dad had a fish-n-chip shop, thus strictly speaking he was in trade and already upwardly mobile). Essentially, he said, self-empowerment (yonks before the word had become a politically correct buzzword) was a liberating force in an era when expressing yourself and being creative was actively discouraged by your elders as being “above your station”. For each pal in this trio, punk had rattled the cage guarding that convention. That’s why Smith’s starting point in his book is 1976, the year punk stamped its Doc Martened foot and kick-started his photographic reflexes.

In one of our first conversations way back when, Elms’s interpretation was that, against the black cloud of recession and unemployment rising to 3 million, his generation were shrewdly turning what were once regarded as hobbies into livelihoods. My own analogy has always been that their nightclubs were effectively well-organised factory floors and job centres. Everyone who came to dance could, if they had the wit, shimmy out into the daylight with the promise of work on a “Variety Of Projects”. It was the Blitz Kids who invented the phrase and its acronym as a verb, to VOP, and vopping is what made the 80s belong to the young — and especially to the “Common People” immortalised by Jarvis Cocker. They staged a social and industrial revolution the elders and the mainstream decision-makers could not ignore in the opening years of the decade, no doubt about it. The last-minute shift in the remit of Channel 4 when it launched in 1982 was clear proof.

We Can Be Heroes gives the voppers their turn to be heard. Their fruity language and their rough-house antics are going to appall the unsuspecting middle-class reader, ha-ha-ha.

❏ Shapersofthe80s will be following through with more of their clubland adventures soon…

THEY’D LIKE YOUR CASH NOW

❏ The digital age means that short-run, quality books such as We Can Be Heroes can be published to high production standards if enough funds are raised in advance. So when you visit Graham Smith’s publisher Unbound.co.uk, you will be invited to pay now for a book that will not be printed at all unless a break-even target is reached. It’s an innovative sales pitch, it’s very 21st century, and as of today they need another 988 pledges upfront, within the next 42 days if the book is to be out for Christmas. For a basic £30 you will receive a beautifully cloth-bound 325-page hard-back printed on substantial paper — plus your name listed as a Supporter in the first edition. You can pay more for further treats. The company Unbound was founded this year by three dynamic young men with considerable experience of traditional publishing, QI writers John Mitchinson and John Pollard, and Crap Towns author Dan Kieran. Their own track records have encouraged Britain’s leading publishing house of Faber & Faber to offer support by running on titles which prove successful through Unbound first editions.

❏ Three popstars created by the Blitz Club scene have endorsed the book by writing their own forewords in it: Boy George, Steve Strange and Gary Kemp of Spandau Ballet. Robert Elms has written an intro, while the main text is by Chris Sullivan. Graham has sweated blood to secure the voxpops.

➢ November catch-up: links to media coverage of We Can Be Heroes

➢ Videos of Robert Elms and Chris Sullivan telling their “Ribald tales of excess”

We Can Be Heroes, photography, youth culture, nightclubbing,books,Unbound,Graham Smith, Chris Sullivan,

Latest cover for Graham Smith’s history of clubland featuring Clare with the Hair and George O’Dowd before he became Boy

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➤ Steve Strange puts on an Essex face for Ascot

Steve Strange ,Ascot racecourse, Here & Now, 80s music,

Steve Strange before: master face-painter at work at Ascot... Photography by Becky Varley

❚ OLD ROMANTIC HABITS DIE HARD. Steve Strange finally got himself onto a stage this weekend singing the odd Visage hit, following the horse-racing at Ascot in Berkshire for this summer’s last Here & Now 80s revival line-up. But beforehand, the veteran poser and onetime greeter at the Swinging 80s Blitz club had to plaster over the cracks with a touch of Polyfilla — he’s just celebrated his 52nd birthday after all. Then, naturally, he couldn’t resist applying slightly more bronzer than an Essex girl would need for a night out clubbing down the Chigwell Road. The after snap is a minor miracle that should convince the doubters Steve hasn’t lost his knack for maquillage, whatever the voice sounded like (audience reports eagerly awaited). Supporting Steve during his comeback was a galaxy of 80s stars who included Kid Creole, Toyah Willcox, Paul Young and Jimmy Somerville.

Who better than Steve could qualify as the face of a cosmetics firm, according to breaking news at Wales Online? (Remember his origins as Steven John Harrington from Newbridge where he went to school?) WO reports this weekend: “The Visage frontman, famed for wearing garish eye shadow, mascara and blusher alongside the likes of Boy George in the 80s New Romantic movement, is set to front products made by Illamasqua. The firm aptly markets its range as ‘night-time make-up for your alter ego’ and says its distinct style is inspired by members of ‘alternative scenes’.” Bingo!

➢ Visit Facebook to view more Here & Now pictures at Ascot yesterday from Becky Varley and Shawn Clubcapture

Steve Strange ,Ascot racecourse, Here & Now, 80s music,

Steve Strange after: masterly poise onstage with Here & Now at Ascot. Photography by Shawn Clubcapture

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➤ A swelle hello from upstart Judith, returning in an explosion of colour

Blitz Kids, David Bowie,Ashes to Ashes , Judith Frankland

Blitz Kids chosen by Bowie to star in his Ashes to Ashes video, 1980: Darla-Jane, Steve, Judith and Elise with Bowie at centre as Major Tom. © EMI

❚ WE ALL REMEMBER DESIGNER Judith Frankland’s nun-like appearance in David Bowie’s Ashes to Ashes video in 1980 alongside Steve Strange who was wearing her infamous black wedding dress. Tomorrow Judith unveils her first women’s collection in eight years at the Holy Biscuit gallery in Newcastle upon Tyne, in a week-long show by a mixed group of women artists. She says her new outfits are designed for “The Woman Who Likes to say Hello!”

Judith Frankland, fashion, Holy Biscuit gallery, Newcastle

Judith’s flyer illustrated by Manny More

They are joyous explosions of colour that, she insists, “come from within my well travelled head” — and here we’re talking the shock tactics of an eternal punkette, whose own looks veer between the immaculate cool of revue star Bea Lillie and the fruitiness of dancer Carmen Miranda. At the height of the Blitz club’s notoriety, Judith’s playful yet tailored outfits adorned Steve Strange as vocalist with Visage to become some of the most distinctive styles of the New Romantics movement. Most memorable was the taffeta jacket with medieval flourishes on the cover for Fade to Grey.

Judith Frankland, Milan, clubbing, Pussy Galore,

Milanese night warrior: Judith during her Pussy Galore hostess era, 1989-96

Where did the last 30 years go for Judith? She has lived more lives than the rest of us ever will, in a whirl of bespoke design partnerships and nightclub promoting from Vancouver to LA to Milan to Paris, fuelled by acerbic wit and a mighty big heart. With such landmark clubs as Pussy Galore and Chocolat City, the Italians branded her one of “i guerrieri della notte” — the warriors of the night.

In the end she returned to Tyneside to look after her ailing mum, and only now has she found the time and energy to return to the fashion fray. Judith’s last business was based in Paris and that’s where she plans to return next year. The new Winter 2011/12 collection is a modest calling card that exploits a secret stash of “school-blazer fabrics” in stripes and vibrant colourways. Judith has suffused uniform wool suitings with a positively romantic glow.

With the left hand, she has been contributing to a smart new blog called The Swelle Life, run by writer-photographer Denise Grayson. Here in her own uninhibited confessional style, Judith pays generous tribute to the inspirational circle of friends she has acquired on her travels.

Judith Frankland, fashion,nun,Sound of Music

Judith’s nun look from 1980, left, echoed in 2011, right. After fashion, her second passion is the film The Sound of Music. “I hate revisiting the past,” she maintains, but for her Swelle Life blog, she couldn’t resist accessorising this vintage German skirt with her own nun’s collar and cuffs. Photographs by Derek Ridgers and Denise Grayson

Judith Frankland, Paris, 2002

From Judith’s 2002 collection while living in Paris: her apartment in rue Montorgueil just by Les Halles converted into a showroom during fashion week

Judith Frankland, Christian Lacroix , fashion

A couture original: When Shapersofthe80s visited Judith’s Old Curiosity Shoppe of a home last summer, she showed off the latest treasure acquired from her local thrift shops, this Lacroix coat, priced 25 pence! Photographed © by Shapersofthe80s

➢ HERE’S HOW JUDITH INTRODUCED HERSELF
AT THE SWELLE LIFE BLOG

I’m an upstart and a woman like many who loves — and in my case lives — fashion and the world that lurks around it, a world I have stepped in and out of all my life. I have an excitable, excruciatingly inquisitive mind; I never stop thinking, plotting and some would say talking! I am not a lover of the term ‘On trend’; I like to say ‘On form’. Micro mini to maxi. If it feels right on the day I’ll wear it — no sheep mentality for me. I mix bargain buys, charity shop finds and my own creations.

 Denise Grayson, Judith Frankland,The Swelle Life, fashion,Winter 2011-12

Judith models her Hello! look for Winter 2011/12: day wear and evening wear giving new life to school-blazer suitings. Jewellery from the designer’s own massive collection. Photographed © by Denise Grayson

London’s Cafe Royal, 1980: Judith’s graduation show from Ravensbourne college of art caused a sensation with a glamorous evocation of the 50s in black and white taffeta, brocade, velvet and satin. Its climax was this black wedding dress worn by Sheila Ming, gloriously crowned by Stephen Jones’s veiled head-dress made of stiffened lace on a metal frame. Blitz club host Steve Strange was later to wear it in David Bowie’s video for Ashes to Ashes. Photographed © by Niall McInerney

Ashes to Ashes, video, Judith Frankland, David Bowie, fashion, Blitz Kids

On the beach at Hastings filming Ashes to Ashes: Judith (right) in the ecclesiastical habit Bowie had seen her in at the Blitz, with Steve Strange (second left) in Judith’s black wedding dress he’d also worn that night (head-dress by Stephen Jones). Elise and Darla-Jane wear their own outfits. What with the shingle and the quicksand and Steve trying to outrun the bulldozer, Judith says the wedding dress was completely destroyed. © EMI

➢ An Eclectic Mix of Arts & Design runs April 8–15 at the Holy Biscuit gallery in Newcastle upon Tyne. Join Judith for a chat at the preview this Friday 6–8pm. Others showing are Tutu Benson, Anne Johnson, Helen Moss, Sheelagh Peace, Susan Stanton, Jill Stephen

➢ Update — Judith’s new collection for Winter 2011–12 reviewed

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