Category Archives: Youth culture

2015 ➤ Steve Strange’s anniversary: deciphering the pen portraits of the man of masks

Steve Strange, Stephen Harrington, Blitz Kids, New Romantics, nightclubbing, Swinging 80s, London, fashion, pop music, Visage, tributes, youth culture, obituaries

Steve Strange in 1981: here in Robin Hood guise (BBC)

FIRST PUBLISHED 13 FEBRUARY 2015

◼ ONE OF STEVE STRANGE’S TALENTS was persuading the press to believe in his latest wheeze, however fantastic. He had a way of convincing himself that a story was already written and a mission achieved before he had pressed the accelerator and set off. This irritated as many journalists as it amused and many were consequently very sceptical of his next big announcement – like saying he’d booked a big American star to do her first live promotional performance in Britain at his crowning glory, the Camden Palace, capacity 1,410. But in fact he had and she did, and in June 1983 the unknown Madonna was launched in the UK singing to backing tapes for half an hour.

The myths surrounding Steve were always the stuff of self-promotion. Dressing up was part of the same story-telling ritual. Today, he would say, I am Robin Hood, tomorrow Ruritanian Space Cadet, the next day Marionette with the mind of a toy. A compulsive man of masks presents a tricky subject for the scribblers obliged to capture that life once it is spent, so we must tiptoe through the obituaries like a minefield, and beware of tripping over Steve’s much-spun versions of history that were pure fantasy. Even national newspapers seemed to fall for many of the dreams he spouted, as well as the exceedingly vague memories committed to his 2002 book, Blitzed. As the mainstream obituary writers lead you through those New Romantic years, see if you can spot the porkies. . .

➢ The Times obituary:
As the head boy of the “new romantics”, Steve Strange was the flamboyant scene-maker of a colourful subculture that dominated early 1980s British pop music as a showily garish counter-reaction to the stylistic austerity of punk. If punks were the roundheads in pop’s civil war, the “new romantics” were the cavaliers, ushering in a restoration of glitz and glamour, with a delectably decadent flourish… / Continued online

➢ Adam Sweeting, Guardian:
In 1978, Strange and Rusty Egan (then drummer with the Rich Kids) began holding David Bowie nights on Tuesdays at Billy’s club in Soho, a squalid bunker situated beneath a brothel. “We played Bowie, Roxy Music and electro,” said Strange. “It was where our friends could be themselves.” Billy’s could hold only 250 people [not quite!] but swiftly developed an outsize reputation, numbering among its garishly clad clientele such stars-to-be as George O’Dowd (the future Boy George), Siobhan Fahey, later of Bananarama, and Marilyn. . . / Continued online

Billy’s club,Helen Robinson, nightlife, London ,Steve Strange, PX

Billy’s club 1978: Strange as Ruritanian Space Cadet alongside PX designer Helen Robinson. (Photograph by © Nicola Tyson)

➢ Daily Telegraph obituary:
Strange fronted sleek operations, such as Club For Heroes in Baker Street and the Camden Palace in north London, where Madonna performed her first British live concert. But Visage split amid acrimony over the division of royalty payments, and his nightspots fell out of vogue in the mid-1980s with the rise of rap, hip-hop and dance music. By this time Strange had a reputation for high-handedness. Years later, Boy George lampooned Strange as the preposterous club host character “Nobby Normal” in his biographical musical Taboo. Strange was not amused. “I don’t think I have that strong a Welsh accent,” he complained. . . / Continued online

➢ The Scotsman obituary:
Although his career as a pop star afforded him only one real hit as frontman of the band Visage, 1980’s austere synthesiser anthem Fade to Grey, Steve Strange’s distinctive image and party-loving persona saw him help invent London’s New Romantic scene. . . Visage’s time in the sun flared all too briefly; with Strange being courted to repeat the clubbing success of places like the Blitz in various US cities, he dived wholeheartedly into the life of the international rock star, with all the pitfalls that entailed. Put off by Strange’s drug use, spending sprees and debauched behaviour, Midge Ure left to concentrate on Ultravox and Visage’s 1984 third album Beat Boy was a critical and commercial failure. The band split the following year, the same year that Strange first took heroin. . . / Continued online

➢ Pierre Perrone in The Independent:
A flamboyant figure with a self-destructive streak . . . By the late 90s he was back in Wales and, by his own admission, acting “very bizarrely”. He spent six weeks in a psychiatric hospital, was arrested for shoplifting and given a suspended sentence. “I don’t know whether it was cry for help,” he told The Independent in 2000, blaming an over-reliance on Prozac, though he seemed comfortable with his avowed bisexuality. . . / Continued online

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2024 ➤ Original outlaws celebrate their blasts from the past

Exhibition, fashion, 1980s, influencers, Youthculture, zeitgeist, Franceska Luther King, Fashion and Textile Museum, Outlaws,

Outlaws: superb gallery of the exhibition – Photos at Facebook © Franceska

❚ HERE’S A REVIEW OF THE NEW OUTLAWS SHOW, written by Franceska Luther King at Facebook yesterday…

<< Fabulous night at the private view of Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of 80s London at the Fashion and Textile Museum on Thursday evening. Curated by the amazing Martin Green and James Lawler and NJ Stevenson with amazing mannequins by David Cabaret. It was a very special night, a gathering of all the fashion crowd from the mid 80s, celebrating club culture and true creativity. Such good times!!!

So great to be included with a piece of my collection for Joseph back in the day, silk sari shirts. Post Demob designs and after my backing with Tanya Sarne and Jane Whiteside, I ventured on with my own collections sold to Jones, Whistles , Brown’s etc then my own little retail outlet in Kensington Market. So great to see all the familiar faces and see beautiful blasts from the past.

40 years later! And so sad that we have already lost so many… Great to see Joan Burey, Corinne Drewery, Greg Davis, John Richmond, Sue Tilley, Eve Ferret, Mark Moore, DarlaJane Gilroy, Simon Reeves, Daniel Conway, Derek Ridgers, David Johnson, Andrew Logan, Hamish Bowles, Sophie Parkin, Dean Bright, Tolan Hüseyin-Halleck, Paul Gorman, Robert Leach, Vivienne Austin, Richard Kaby.

Amazing clothes by Richard Torry, Rachel Auburn, BodyMap, Pam Hogg, Elmaz Huseyin, Sue Came, English Eccentrics, John Galliano, Katharine Hamnett, Kahn & Bell, Whittiker Malem, Dean Bright, Judy Blame, John Moore, Christopher Nemeth, Mark & Syrie, Leigh Bowery, John Crancher, Franceska King and many more!  >>

➢ Click through to Facebook to see all 18 images
in Franceska’s Outlaws post

Exhibition, fashion, 1980s, influencers, Youthculture, zeitgeist, Franceska Luther King, Fashion and Textile Museum, Outlaws,

Outlaws: true creativity and amazing mannequins – Photo © Franceska


➢ Visit Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of 80s London
at the Fashion and Textile Museum

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2024 ➤ London’s Evening Standard publishes my obituary of Linard the wild child of UK fashion

Stephen Linard, Blitz Kids, fashion, New Romantics, Swinging80s,

Photo by Kate Garner

❚ A LAVISHLY DESIGNED OBITUARY of Stephen Linard written by me appears in today’s Evening Standard online and stands as a well-deserved memoir for one of my best friends…
➢ The life of Stephen Linard – A flamboyant Canvey Island boy who went on to shape the Blitz Kids silhouette in the 1980s

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2023 ➤ Linard snapped in the footsteps of Duchamp

Stephen Linard, Total Fashion Victim, St Leonards on Sea, Rogue Gallery, September 2023, Blitz Kid, New Romantic, exhibition, fashion illustrations,

At his TFV PV: a colourful Linard with some of his early illustrations inspired by Tom of Finland. (Photo © Shapersofthe80s)

❚ NORMAN ROAD in St Leonard’s on Sea hosted more than its usual share of Eighties art fans this weekend. At Lucy Bell’s a book signing by Bowie’s travelling companion and photographer Geoff MacCormack drew fans seeking a signature on his latest title. Only yards away the newish Rogue Gallery was hosting Total Fashion Victim, an archive exhibition of one-time Blitz Kid Stephen Linard’s earliest fashion illustrations while a student from 1978 onward. As his tutor at St Martin’s Rosetta Brooks declared, he was a leader among the small pack of London fashionistas noted for their poser talents. “Each poser,” she believed, “is a ready-made,” exactly as defined by Marcel Duchamp in New York around 1914 when modernism was being born. (His own most famous ready-mades included Bicycle Wheel, Bottle Rack and the urinal titled Fountain.)

Partying with Linard – Click any pic to launch slideshow:

Here we can judge for ourselves from more than 40 pieces of artwork on sale for the next month, and enjoyed by a considerable crowd at the private view. Among them one of Linard’s designer contemporaries at St Martin’s School of Art was Corinne Drewery, later to become a pop singer with Swing Out Sister, here eye-catching in one of his flapper dresses in ikat with faded rose print which she used to wear circa 1983, “and it still fits”!!!

Linard’s previously unseen work – Click any pic to launch slideshow:

➢ Total Fashion Victim exhibition hosted by Ray Gange at the Rogue Gallery, 65 Norman Road, St Leonard’s On Sea

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s: 2023, My guide to the Linard exhibition which runs until 8 October at the Rogue Gallery

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2023 ➤ Siouxsie live at Troxy burns bright as Morticia

Andy Polaris, reviews Siouxsie Sioux, live concert, Troxy, Banshees, Goth,

Having a blast: Siouxsie Sioux at Troxy, London, jaunty and relaxed and chatty. (Photograph by James Watkins)

➢ At his own website Andy Polaris reviews Siouxsie live at London’s refurbed Troxy, after ten years away. . .

There was definitely an air of expectation awaiting the return of Siouxsie Sioux live in London after a ten-year hiatus. . . Dressed in baby-blue flowing light bodysuit with voluminous sleeves, pussy bow and flared, long hair streaked with grey, this was Morticia in unexpected cocktail glamour mode. The fashion belied the opening which was the gates of hell grind ‘Night Shift’ with uncompromising refrain guaranteed to throw any new fans in the deep end (visit the live album Nocturne 1983 if you need an introduction) but sated the appetite of the rest of us.

We took a trip through both the Banshees’ back catalogue and tracks from Siouxsie’s solo album Mantaray and work with Budgie and The Creatures. What was engaging about this evening was how jaunty and relaxed she was on this surprise return to the live stage, more chatty than I can ever remember and because she was having a blast so were we. This osmosis between audience and artist galvanised her performance. . . that unwavering support from fans and how songs reignite so many potent memories of past teenage lives and how these songs signposted myriad experiences. . . / Continued at apolarisview

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