Category Archives: Fashion

2011 ➤ Open your wallet for a Vintage sting on London’s Southbank

Princess Julia, Chris Sullivan, deejays, Vintage 2011,Southbank Centre, clubbing

Vintage deejays at Vintage 2011: original Blitz Kids such as Princess Julia and Chris Sullivan will be spinning the vinyl to recreate legendary 80s club soundtracks from the Blitz to the Wag

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❚ VINTAGE 2011 IS A MUSIC AND DRESS-UP festival indoors at London’s Southbank Centre (so without the mud), curated by Wayne and Gerardine Hemingway. This three-day party from Friday July 29 celebrates seven decades of British cool from the 1920s to the 80s. Taking its lead from the Festival of Britain (1951), the blurb says there is no single creative focus, just hours of music, fashion, film, art, design and dance each day.

Vintage 2011 , SBC, RFH,Wayne Hemingway,London, Southbank Centre , music, fashion, festivalAll levels of the Royal Festival Hall are transformed into a multi-venue playground, with ten vintage nightclubs such as The Soul Casino, Let it Rock, The Torch Club and The Leisure Lounge. New this year are The Studio, Prohibition Room, The Bunker Club and the North South Divide. In total there’ll be 70 live performances, 150 deejays, exclusive catwalk shows with Jo Wood and Pearl and Daisy Lowe; decade specific make-overs; vintage food and cocktails and 250 sellers at the vintage marketplace. Each day sees a major Revue in the main auitorium: Heaven 17, Alan Wilder and Thomas Dolby, for example, in Friday’s Electronic Revue… Percy Sledge in Saturday’s Soul Revue… David McAlmont, Sandie Shaw and more in Sunday’s Hit Parade.

Sue Tilley, Leigh Bowery, biographer

Sue Tilley: catwalk show celebrating 80s nightlife

Now take a deep breath. On the Friday at 6pm Cavalcade of the 80s is a catwalk fashion show presented by Sue Tilley, Leigh Bowery’s biographer and Lucian Freud model. Sue says: “Bodymap are showing about six outfits with models including Barry Kamen and Les Child… There is going to be an Antony Price dress… Kim Jones is lending some Leigh Bowery originals… Rachel Auburn is recreating one of her outfits. And there’s the second performance this year after 28 years of the 80s club sensations The Trindys.” The models will include friends from the 80s plus new club kids Daniel Lismore and Felicity Hayward. [“My idea of the 80s” — Sue Tilley interviewed at Dazed Digital]

On Saturday the RFH Penthouse venue goes “back to the futurists” and the New Romantic Blitz Club era with 80s three genuine Blitz Kid super-deejays Princess Julia, Jeffrey Hinton and Mark Moore.

At her blog The World of Princess Julia, the doyenne of clubland deejays gives a quick rundown on how she graduated from the Blitz Club cloakroom to the wheels of steel and says of Vintage: “I think I’ll play a mixture of music that has played a part in my deejay career. It will range from post-punk electronica, disco, retro pop, dance and anything else I find at the bottom of my handbag.”

➢ View slideshow of previously unseen 80s pix by Shapersofthe80s at ClashMusic

Classic Album Sundays and Bowers & Wilkins present the Best British Albums at Vintage in four two-hour listening sessions each day in the St Paul’s Pavilion. At 7.30 on Saturday Mark Moore will be introducing Joy Division’s Closer album and the record will be played in its entirety (from vinyl of course) over fab B&W audio kit.

Chris Hill, Robbie Vincent, clubbing,funk, soul DJs, dance music,

Funk royalty: Chris Hill (left) plays the Vintage festival, but what about Robbie Vincent?

For Sunday night in the Penthouse Chris Sullivan — the original Wag Club host for 19 years and Uber-Shaper of the 80s — recreates the funkier, post-Romantic spirit of Le Beat Route (1980–83, zoot suits) and the Wag (1982+ ripped jeans and Celebrity Squares) along with other gods among dance deejays Paul Murphy and Jay Strongman (who also plays Warehouse on Friday and Let It Rock, Saturday).

Over in the Soul Casino the funk legend that is Chris Hill joins the legends who are Norman Jay and Colin Curtis. Tsssss! Have the Hemingways got any inkling of exactly how many galaxies of star quality they have booked?

In all likelihood, Sullivan says: “There might well be a bit of dancing.” When asked what he’s going to play first to get feet kicking, he responded: “Might well be one of THE great recordings, Eddie Kendricks – Keep on Truckin. Lyrically it’s just there. What a Bobby dazzler!”

Ticket prices are frankly a sting, starting at £60 (wince!), since you are the star turn at this DIY event, but dedicated followers of fashion not yet squeezed by the recession aren’t likely to complain.

➢ Ticket without evening show £60, with Vintage Revue from £75 upwards, Fri–Sun July 29–31, full details at the Southbank Centre

➢ July 22 update: We should celebrate Britain’s role in clubbing — Wayne Hemingway in the Independent, sadly getting his London club memories muddled

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1981 ➤ Chant No 1: Spandau revive the rumble of funk while hard times loom

❚ ON THIS DAY IN 1981 Spandau Ballet, spearhead band of the New Romantic movement, were flying off to Spain and Portugal by way of a working holiday with sun and sand — a brief tour of principal cities to establish their first European fan base, which remains strong today. Most significantly, on Ibiza, the island which young British sunseekers were starting to make their own, Spandau played at the then spanking new Ku club, as one of the first fashion bands whose visits were to make Ku one of the Mediterranean’s destination nightspots.

Spandau Ballet, Ibiza, 1981

Spandau Ballet in 1981: a quick sprint to the Iberian peninsular as well as a hot date at Ibiza’s Ku club

But the day before their departure, Spandau had lit the fuse to a musical bombshell. They changed their sound to outflank the emergent slipstream of new image bands invading the British charts with synth-pop.

That Thursday they had taken over Le Beat Route in Soho, a mythical Mod club during the 60s, now fronted by Ollie O’Donnell, a suited but laid-back young crimper from Keith-at-Smile’s cool salon in Knightsbridge. The downstairs hideaway in Soho was the current Friday-night HQ of London’s nightlife leaders whose jackets and printed ties were hastily shaking off the New Romantic tag even as Duran Duran’s second single revelled in it. The bamboo decor helped: hints of a tropical holiday-camp with baskets for lampshades. South Seas tongue-in-cheek, maybe. Glamorous it was  not. The ethos for new one-nighters was never to be smart, always gently ironic.

Here before an invited audience of Friday regulars the innovative Russell Mulcahy directed Spandau’s promotional video for their fourth single, Chant No 1. The bombshell was a surprise change of direction, announced by rat-a-tat congas and a burst of brass. The new tune, Gary Kemp said, had been inspired directly by the dissonant brass on the disco-funk track Wheel Me Out, the debut 12-inch dance single on Ze from US new-wave group Was (Not Was). The eerie sound had been introduced to keen Brit ears during the Axiom fashion show that had preceeded Spandau’s set in New York that May, during the first Blitz Invasion.

Chant No 1 was a blue-eyed funk mover that echoed the band’s teen years on the soul circuit, musically fresh while the lyrics seeped a certain seedy paranoia. There on-camera was a black trio of brass instrumentalists, Beggar & Co, who were the horn section for the British funksters Light of the World, and who’d already had their own hit with Somebody Help me Out.

Gone were the artsy settings and OTT costumes of Spandau’s early videos. This razor-sharp musical documentary intercuts Soho streetlife with a live club  performance by Spandau. “Down, down, down, pass the Talk of the Town” urges the deejay’s Chandleresque rap as Tony Hadley sweeps past The Talk, the cobwebbed Mecca of international cabaret from the Judy Garland era. Inside the steamy Beat Route itself we take in the stylish ambience where the “mobile knives” now live to dance, as well as dress up in a distinctly more boy-meets-girl way than the incessant camperie of the Blitz, the long-gone poser-paradise. We glimpse the deejay Steve Lewis before his portrait of Lenin, in a season when Soviet button badges are also de rigueur, and it’s evident that, yes, things are different here.

Stephen Jones, Graham Smith, Ollie O’Donnell, Robert Elms

Three hats and a quiff: Stephen Jones, Graham Smith, Robert Elms and at centre Beat Route host Ollie O’Donnell, during the shooting of the Chant No1 video in 1981. Photography © Shapersofthe80s

The video emphatically makes the point that clubland rules. Spandau drummer John Keeble spoke with only slight exaggeration when he said: “For the next couple of years, no new band played live on a stage.” What he meant was that rock venues as the source for original music had been superseded by nightclubs. White socks and hedonism were the key: girls in swirling party frocks with hair cropped like chives, and boys wearing braces and rolled-up sleeves soon walked the streets of every town. Ha! Why, even the NME finally conceded by introducing a “Dance Chart” alongside their lists of Indie garage bands.

Spandau Ballet, Gary Kemp, Chant No 1, video, Beat Route, clubbing

Chant No 1: Gary Kemp with one of Beggar & Co’s brass section at front

Once released on July 6, Chant No 1 rocketed straight up the charts to reach No 3 on August 1 (the NME chart actually placed it at No 1). Simultaneously remixed by Richard Burgess as a B-side and as an extended twelve-incher for clubs, the track immediately became an upbeat dance anthem for the school-leavers who were discovering what economic “hard times” were going to mean.

“I Don’t Need This Pressure On” ran Spandau’s chorus as a timely slogan for that summer when Britain went into shellshock from the rare experience of repeated race riots on the streets of London, Manchester and Liverpool. The fashion-conscious band who had been dismissed by the rockist press as fascists and dandies hit back with supreme optimism. This vibrant tune pressed the pop button with fans as well as rival bands who envied the chemistry of Spandau plus Beat Route. It announced a new brand: Team Soho. For ten weeks in the charts, Chant No 1 confirmed its rhythm as the sound of the new pop: once-and-for-all the dominance of the rock guitar was shifting to the supremacy of bass and drum for pop generations to come.

Ironies were everywhere. Not only did the crepe-shoed rocker Shakin’ Stevens occupy the No 1 spot for four consecutive weeks with Green Door, a comforting throwback to 50s nostalgia. By contrast, the cool young band who also held Chant off the top spot for another three consecutive weeks were The Specials, whose haunting single Ghost Town (where “all the clubs have been closed down”) became a poignant epitaph for the inner-city angst starting to erupt among the ranks of the hard-pressed in Margaret Thatcher’s Britain. The times were changing, not entirely for the better.

Beat Route, nightclubbing, Soho, Spandau Ballet, video,Chant No 1,

The legend that became Le Beat Route: a little light romancing, a lot of heavy drinking. Photography © Shapersofthe80s

THE SPANDAU STORY SO FAR

➢ 1980, Spandau fire the starting gun for British clubland’s pop hopefuls: dada didi daaa!
➢ 1980, The day Spandau signed on the line and changed the sound of British pop

How many people dID it take to launch an electro-diskow band?

Waldorf Hotel, Spandau Ballet, Covent Garden, Blitz club, New Romantics, youth culture,youth movement, Blitz Kids , To Cut a Long Story Short, London, UK, singles chart, aged 20, club-hosts, DJs, Herbie Knott

Waldorf Hotel 1980: seated at centre, Spandau Ballet, house band of Covent Garden’s Tuesday-night Blitz Club, home of the New Romantics movement, plus support team of Blitz Kids who helped put their first single To Cut a Long Story Short into the UK singles chart at No 5, on Dec 6, 1980. Average age 20, everyone had a specific role to play in staging and promoting the band: seven musicians, six designers, three media and management, three club-hosts, two DJs, one crimper and 22 egos. Photographed for the Evening Standard © by Herbie Knott

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➤ The incomparable Hilary Alexander makes her own front-page news by throwing in the trowel

Hilary Alexander, tributes, Daily Telegraph, fashion,

Farewell to Hils: the spoof front page every good hack deserves to cap their career

❚ YOU MIGHT EXPECT a diamond-encrusted Rolex watch from the chief exec when you retire as fashion director of a national newspaper running a 20-strong team chasing trends on five continents. Plus a rope of Chanel pearls from a secret admirer. You’ve already been feted at a starry slap-up reception hosted by your employer and the British Fashion Council for your 26 years’ worth of being an international icon of the fashion press. But the one present you’re really never quite braced for comes when you invite all your fellow hacks down to the local tavern to see you off the premises. It is the best present in every hack’s career: an unholy spoof front page starring you, in which all your “friends” rib you mercilessly over your really annoying habits, and your little foibles — such as the menagerie of animal furs you’ve worn on your head from racoons to foxes to ferrets. Or for the sake of argument, your taste for Marlboro Lights, Maasai jewellery, a straight bob cut by Warren at Nicky Clark, and large glasses of wine beside your laptop while you tweet hourly to your 183,000 followers.

Hilary Alexander, doll, British Fashion Council

Attraction at the British Fashion Council party: a “mini Hilary” doll loaned by Matches. Guests queued all night to be photographed with her. © Clara Molden

The highly sarcastic page will make you cringe when it’s presented in the pub, because they obviously choose the worst possible picture of you they can find. But you preen secretly as you bask in the indirect admiration of your workmates — which will never before have been expressed to your face by anybody in the highly competitive newspaper business — and you’ll frame your impudent page and hang it in the bathroom with pride. It is better than any Oscar recognising a lifetime’s achievement.

Last night near The Daily Telegraph’s office in Victoria, it was the turn of the doyenne of British fashionistas, Hilary Alexander. If she’d worked on a glossy magazine the page would have contained a handful of satirical coverlines. But a broadsheet newspaper page can hold about 2,000 well-crafted words. Having dealt with Hils’ trademark hats in row of pictures across the page top, a selection of stories dug for dirt. We read of a recent fashion emergency which brought chaos to Heathrow airport when the star writer’s dongle would not work and World Travellers piled in to help. “This is nothing,” the doyenne commented. “I once sent copy on a Hussein Chalayan show from a nightclub in Brixton at 1am.”

Marc Jacobs , Hilary Alexander

“Me and Hils?” Marc Jacobs wants to be photographed with Hilary in the tribute video

Another story deals with her passion for cats which rank up there with Karl, Stella and Donatella. Then there’s a report from Karl Lagerfeld’s allotment where he is pictured sporting green wellies, while another attributes a craze for sparkly hairspray to the “Hilary effect” following a TV appearance. But the splash, as we pros call the lead story on the front page, reveals Hils’ secret yen since her schooldays — she always wanted to be an archeologist in the footsteps of Jacquetta Hawkes, who also favoured a neat line in floppy brimmed hats while digging for relics. Funnily enough, the one present Hils could have done with last night was a trowel.

Karl Lagerfeld, Hilary Alexander, spoof

Hils and Karl: this report is entirely a spoof report from her Telegraph tribute, Monsieur Lagerfeld, in case you were wondering

The breathless splash tells us: “Telegraph editors are braced for a run of front-page stories about developments in ancient Babylon. With Hilary Alexander shifting her sights from fashion to archeology, midnight calls to the news desk are expected reporting events in Mesopotamia. “The writing is on the wall for Nebuchadnezzar,” she may be shouting down the line. Another day she could bring news of a rehang in the gardens of Babylon.” And so on.

The truth is of course that Hils will continue to write about fashion as a freelance, just try to stop her. A close second-best present was a fabulous series of personal tributes in the specially commissioned video first screened at the Fashion Council bash earlier in June, where everyone danced to Hilary’s playlist of Abba, Queen and dance anthems long after midnight (she is an inveterate nightclubber). Friends had a chance to view the video last night at the St George’s Tavern. In it BFC chairman Harold Tillman says unreservedly: “She deserves the highest honour you could possibly give somebody in her profession — she is brilliant.”

➢ Watch the whirlwind Hils in this affectionate starry tribute to her talents and see if you don’t agree:


➢ View a Telegraph Online video of the lavish party celebrating Hilary Alexander’s career, plus a slideshow of the evening:

Suzy Menkes, Hilary Alexander, Anna Wintour, party

British doyennes among fashion commentators: Suzy Menkes (International Herald Tribune), Hilary Alexander (Daily Telegraph), Anna Wintour (US Vogue) caught on video celebrating Hils’ retirement

2023 R.I.P.

➢ Elsewhere at Shapersofthe80s:
2023, Fond farewells to the glorious Queen
of the Telegraph fashion pages

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➤ INDEX of posts for June 2011

Boy George, 50th birthday,Jon Moss, Barbara Moss,

That Man in the Middle: George O’Dowd at his 50th birthday party with former Culture Club drummer and father of three children, Jon Moss and his wife Barbara. © Dave Benett/Getty

➢ Jarvis takes his lyrics to Eliot’s publisher Faber — video interview with Pulp’s songwriter

➢ Too cool to crow — Paradise Point just happen to be gigging in Hyde Park before Grace and Pulp top the bill

➢ Lest we forget: man has changed his ways since Peter Wyngarde cracked the sickest joke on vinyl

➢ Irrational, Professor Cox! Discussing science in a tent at Glastonbury?

➢ Martin Kemp’s Stalker gets autumn DVD release

➢ Will the magical blasts from the past follow St Martin’s out of Soho? Plus — Pulp’s finest hour at the art school’s farewell party

➢ Heaven 17 remind us how electronic music can send the soul soaring!

➢ The Blitz Kids WATN? No 28: Stephen Linard, fashion designer

➢ Hot days, cool nights, as Blue Rondo join the new Brits changing the pop charts — first glimpse of the crazy seven-piece as the 1981 charts fill with the new British pop

Pepsi DeMacque, Shirlie Holliman, Pepsi & Shirlie, then and now,Here & Now, tour

Back on tour: Pepsi & Shirlie in 1987, and this year photographed by Shirlie Kemp’s daughter, Harleymoon

➢ When Shirl asked Peps if she fancied an arena tour, Peps said to Shirl, Why not? — TV interview

➢ EPIC forecasts for the 2015 media landscape loom closer than we think

➢ Aside from the freaks, George, who else came to your 50th birthday party?

➢ One million people think Charlie really is SoCoolLike — meet  the UK’s most popular YouTuber

➢ 1904, The day Nora made a man of Joyce — Bloomsday celebrated

➢ Boy George hits the big Five-0 and he now says, yes, he has ‘lots of regrets’

Paradise Point, Run In Circles , video, Cameron Jones,pop music

Cameron Jones: Paradise Point vocalist

➢ Hear about the many lives of Midge Ure, the Mr Nice of pop — This Is Your Life, 2001

➢ Wise-cracking Sallon shimmies back onto London’s party scene — Boy George’s best friend recovers after assault

➢ Mix your own version of Bowie’s Golden Years with a new iPhone app

➢ 2010, Lady Gaga ousts Lily Allen as UK’s most played artist

➢ Martin Rushent is dead — friends pay tribute to the man who made stars of the Human League and shaped the sound of 80s electro-pop

➢ What happens when retromania exhausts our pop past — Simon Reynolds on our compulsion to relive and reconsume pop history

➢ Up close and cool — Paradise Point’s first official video wins Boy George’s approval

Farewell St Martin’s, Pulp, Jarvis Cocker,University of the Arts, CSM,

Pulp playing at St Martin’s: Jarvis Cocker bids farewell to his old art school at the best party for years. Grabbed from gstogdon’s YouTube video

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➤ Lest we forget: man has changed his ways since Peter Wyngarde cracked the sickest joke on vinyl

Peter Wyngarde, Jason King, Department S, The Prisoner,TV series, RCA,

From villainous to tasteless: At the age of 32 Peter Wyngarde was distinguished enough to guest-star as the sinister Number Two in the epic TV series The Prisoner (1967). Two years later he created the novelist-cum-sleuth Jason King in Department S

❚ EMMA PEELPANTS is a keen-eyed blogger who plunders magazine and retail archives in search of 60s clothes and the whole vulgar, vibrant style of that swinging decade. Once in a while, she has a mensday and today she exhumes that male stereotype, “the heel” — the overbearing, amoral lothario who 40 years ago fancied himself rotten and treated women as playthings. Miss Peelpants publishes a hideously recognisable illustration of a heel from a copy of the teenage magazine 19, dated 1972, where one such sophisticat is grinding his heel into a bevvy of scantily clad girls. 19’s Guide to Recognising a Heel shows the just-got-out-of-bed coiffed hair, the bandito moustache, the whisky-and-cigarette in one hand, plus total absence of a smile, which he would have deemed too uncool.

To anybody of a certain age, the dandy in the illustration is all too visibly based on the actor Peter Wyngarde who shot to fame playing exactly this kind of international playboy in two late-night TV espionage series at the dawn of the 70s, Department S and Jason King. These expressed notions of contemporary glamour by being set in airports and beside Riviera pools. Their action-hero won awards as the “Best Dressed Man In Britain” while Sun readers voted him the “Man With the Sexiest Voice on Television”.

When Sex Leers Its Inquisitive Head , RPM, recording, CD,comedy,Peter Wyngarde What Emma links us to is possibly the most offensive song ever recorded by a star considered suave in his day. The one-off “comedy” album for RCA in 1970 was titled Peter Wyngarde and billed as dwelling on “the darker side of human behaviour”. It was said to have been withdrawn from sale after four days. Unbelievably it was re-released on RPM in 1998 retitled When Sex Leers Its Inquisitive Head with a “Don’t buy this” warning on the sleeve. As a model of appalling bad taste it not only leaves no innuendo unturned, but contains one track actively celebrating rape.

Lest we doubt that political correctness has delivered a few benefits over the years, the Lipstick Thespians have posted this number on YouTube. For those who wish to avoid hearing Wyngarde’s ripe spoken-word rendition, the Thespians have posted the full wince-making lyrics (words and music by Hubert Valverde and Peter Wyngarde). Many people feel that the actor met his just desserts when he wrecked his career in what politicians euphemistically call a moment of madness in 1975. He’s still alive and kicking and signing autographs, now aged 77.

Now feel the pain of date rape

Rhoda Dakar, The Boiler, 2-Tone Records, The Special AKA, ❏ RHODA DAKAR (left), lead singer of The Bodysnatchers, but here as The Special AKA, made The Boiler the strongest single of 1982 in this writer’s opinion, and deeply chilling. Despite being shunned by the safe daytime BBC radio deejays, it was well played by John Peel and spent five weeks in the UK singles chart, reaching No 35. The rare video below has ropey vision but good audio and it pays to listen right to the end.

Jerry Dammers formed The Special AKA, along with Dakar and John Bradbury, after The Specials announced their break up in 1981. Their first single release was The Boiler by Rhoda with The Special AKA (written jointly by the band and produced by Dammers on 2-Tone Records in Jan 1982).

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