2013 ➤ Paris RTW throws up pure anarchy from London in the 80s

“The black-and-whiteness, the kilt over drop-crotch leggings, suspenders on oversize checked silk trousers, gender neutrality — shades of Bodymap in the eighties?”

◼ These stunning pix show shades of more than Bodymap in the 80s – shades also of Westwood, Linard and Galliano. Just read the sheer depth and breadth of brilliant vision expressed this week by Deborah and Priscilla Royer’s wittily titled Pièce d’anarchive presentation …

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➢ For stylecom Tim Blanks reports on this sensational RTW collection which could have come straight down the London catwalks 30 years ago!

French art students learn about Jean Pierre Raynaud at school. He was the conceptualist who spent 25 years building his house, only to decide it was too perfect and, in 1993, tear it to bits. Center stage at Deborah and Priscilla Royer’s laser-sharp presentation for Pièce d’anarchive was a major piece by Raynaud: 64 stainless-steel buckets filled with rubble from his demolition job, installed by the artist himself…

The Royers remodeled sporty athleticism, one of the big stories for Spring 2014, with their own knitwear expertise. “Fusing French craftsmanship with street influences,” said Deborah, “less archive, more anarchy”. The black-and-whiteness, the kilt over drop-crotch leggings, suspenders on oversize checked silk trousers, gender neutrality — shades of Bodymap in the eighties? OK, grant the girls that flicker of fashion anarchy, but otherwise, the linear precision of the clothes was less about letting go, more about complete control of the body, with pieces in substantial technical yarns that celebrated the fit form… / Continued at style.com

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➤ Martin Kemp discreet about his moist moment with Piers Morgan

Piers Morgan, TV, Life Stories,  Martin Kemp , Steve Dagger, Steve Norman , Shirlie Kemp

Braced for the Piers Morgan grilling: Martin Kemp (right) with Spandau manager Steve Dagger, Steve Norman and Shirlie Kemp. (Cam-tweet by Kemp cam)

❚ ALL THE REAL MARTIN KEMP tweeted last night was “#lifestories What a wonderful evening…. Thanks everyone!” Closely followed by Spandau Ballet pal Steve Norman Real tweeting: “I have arrived at the conclusion that @piersmorgan is actually a gentleman”!!! Closely followed by legendary gossip hack and TV host Piers Morgan tweeting: “Ssshhhh, you’ll ruin my reputation @SteveNormanReal”!!!

Four ropey backstage snaps were also tweeted from their respective camphones, but otherwise the Spandau camp were remaining tightlipped about what was revealed at Elstree Studios yesterday. Spandau bass player and TV star Martin (aka onetime EastEnders bad boy Steve Owen) had been a special guest for the new series of Piers Morgan’s Life Stories, and the two-hour recording has yet to be edited down to its final 40 minutes for broadcast very soon.

Morgan is the notorious former editor of Britain’s tabloid Daily Mirror, currently based in the United States, whose Life Stories are famous for wringing tears from at least 11 of his celebrity interviewees in front of live audiences, spiced up with video contributions from friends and family. A sort of This Is Your Life with the gloves off.

Today Martin remained tactful about how moist his grilling became: “It was a close-run thing… But it was so much fun.”

Julie Goodyear, Martin Kemp

Bestest pals ever: Julie Goodyear comforts a weepy Martin Kemp during Celebrity Big Brother in September 2012 (© Channel 5)

Morgan’s 10th series for ITV starts with Coronation Street’s former termagant Bet Lynch aka Julie Goodyear in the hot seat at 9pm on Sept 20. This firecracker will also feature “revealing interviews with her ex-lovers, former co-stars and close friends” it says, so Julie must be gritting her teeth behind those scarlet lips. (Kempie was Julie’s best pal inside last year’s Celebrity Big Brother house – until almost the end, so we might see whether they’ve kissed and made up since.)

In the new series Julie Goodyear is being followed by Gloria Hunniford, Brian Blessed, Julian Clary, Peter Waterman and Beverley Callard (kidnap victim Liz McDonald in Corrie). So far no date set for Steve Owen!

Roman Kemp, Harleymoon Kemp, Martin Kemp, Shirlie Kemp

Moral support at the Elstree studios: the Kemp family, Roman, Harleymoon, Martin and Shirlie. (Cam-tweet by Kemp cam)

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➤ Who is the foot-stampiest nation of them all?

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➢ BBC News reports: Computer program uses Twitter to ‘map mood of nation’
❏ “BRITISH SCIENTISTS HAVE DEVELOPED a computer program they say can map the mood of the nation using Twitter. Named Emotive, it works by accessing the emotional content of postings on the social networking site. The team, from Loughborough University, say it can scan up to 2,000 tweets a second and rate them for expressions of one of eight human emotions. They claim Emotive could help calm civil unrest and identify early threats to public safety…” / Continued at BBC online

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➤ Vivienne brings Cool Britannia to Last Night of the Proms

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Joyce DiDonato sings at the Proms, while Vivienne Westwood’s puce patriotic cape rules. Picture © BBC

❚ ANOTHER GLORIOUS Last Night of the Proms, conducted for the first time by a woman, Marin Alsop, who said she was amazed to be the first in its history because it is after all 2013 and we’ve had 118 years in which to dare! Stars included violinist Nigel Kennedy who indulged himself in some wild and hilarious improv all the way through Vittorio Monti’s accelerating gypsy piece, Csárdás (you’ll know it when you hear it, most recently in Lady Gaga’s song Alejandro).

But the singing sensation of the evening was the American mezzo-soprano Joyce DiDonato who lifted Over the Rainbow way out of the Garland league into a coloratura heaven of her own, wow! Then she led 6,000 voices in the Albert Hall, plus thousands more in public parks across the UK, in Rule Britannia. As is tradition, she swished the wings of her expansive bat-cape to reveal it to be a dreamy puce abstraction of the Union Jack – which we were told was designed for the occasion by Vivienne Westwood. Cool Britannia Rules again.

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Joyce DiDonato leads the Prommers in Rule Britannia. Picture © BBC

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➤ How black British music brought a nation to its dancing feet

grime, black music, Roll Deep,Sounds Like London

Sound of new London: the influential grime collective Roll Deep in 2009. Photograph by Simon Wheatley

❚ HERE’S AN INSPIRATIONAL BOOK that rocks you on your heels by making a mighty claim that in your guts you know is right. With quiet assurance the author Lloyd Bradbury traces a century of black music in his chunky 430-page Sounds Like London to arrive at this conclusion: that UK black music has dramatically reshaped British culture and mainstream pop. He said last week: “It’s astonishing that we’ve come from Lord Kitchener at the gangplank of the Windrush to Dizzee Rascal at Glastonbury in less than three generations. Today’s music-makers do not think of it as anything to do with black musicians. It is basically London pop music. It is an astonishing evolution.”

Lloyd Bradley , black music, U.K.,Sounds Like London , books, publishing,pop music,If the music’s substantially hidden pre-WW2 history is an eye-opener, the postwar lineage is electrifying. Bradbury draws a continuous arc from the Caribbean immigrant Kitchener singing his calypso “London is the place for me” the moment he disembarked from SS Empire Windrush at Tilbury in 1948, to embrace the jazz bands, blues and clubs and the many hybrid sounds of reggae, highlife, lovers rock and homegrown funk that have led on through peculiar twists to jungle, drum and bass, garage, dubstep and grime and become the soundtracks for British dancefloors today.

The book pays serious tribute to Guyanan-born Eddy Grant whose north London studio brought on a whole generation of musicians (and whose 1979 hit Living on the Front Line lent its name to the Evening Standard’s column about youth culture). The final chapters set out one of the most efficient roadmaps you’ve read to the truly creative UK music-makers of the past 20 years which otherwise saw our charts being despoiled by Cowell’s vacuous talent show victims and tedious bitch-n-gangsta videos from North America.

Bradley, who grew up in Kentish Town, writes: “British black music has never been so prominent. Indeed it’s at the point now where artists such as Labrinth, Tinie Tempah and Dizzee Rascal are bona fide pop stars, with a young mainstream audience that accepts them. The brilliant thing about the current state of British black music is that … our guys have very often succeeded in spite of the UK music business rather than because of it.”

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In similar vein, Jazzie B of Soul II Soul writes in his foreword to the book: “Sounds Like London is a story that needed to be told by somebody who really cares about it, and the most important thing about this book is Lloyd Bradley. The reason this story of London’s black music hasn’t been told before is because up until now he wasn’t ready to write it.”

Former sound-system owner, pirate radio deejay, classically trained chef and adviser to the British Council, Lloyd Bradley has been writing about black music in Britain, the US and the Caribbean for over thirty years.

HERE ARE TWO WONDERFUL REVIEWS

➢ Kevin Pearce, creator of Your Heart Out, shoots the breeze at Caught by the River, Aug 13:

Sounds Like London is a riveting read. It’s one to wolf down in a few sessions, and then savour slowly at a more considered pace… He avoids trotting out the usual suspects who pop up perennially as talking heads as part of the dumbing-down documentary epidemic, so the stories and angles seem fresher than might be anticipated. Quite correctly, Eddy Grant is right at the heart of Lloyd’s history lesson, and it is wonderful to read a book that recognises his role in changing pop music for ever. But some of the other choices of, well, witnesses are also inspired. People like Wookie, Root Jackson, Hazel Miller of Ogun Records, Teddy Osei of Osibisa, and Soul II Soul’s designer Derek Yates come across particularly well and have some great tales to tell… / Continued online

➢ Aug 24: Sukhdev Sandhu reviews Bradley’s book in The Guardian:

Trevor Nelson,DJ, London

Trevor Nelson: talks frankly

Traditionally, black music in this country has been described by historians, as well as its champions in the rock press, as rebel music… Sounds Like London certainly has its darker moments – Trevor Nelson talks about being asked to DJ at clubs to which, as a punter, he was repeatedly refused entry; producers bristle at the memory of clueless major-label representatives craving their demographics but demanding they make stylistic compromises that damaged their reputations… This is an invaluably materialist book that is often at its most enlightening when it recounts the dramas of distribution – label bosses circulating their records via an alternative network of barbers, grocers, hairdressers and travel agents, for example. The much-missed Stern’s record store began life as an electrical supplies shop on Tottenham Court Road that was popular with African students who paid for repairs with new vinyl from their home countries. For Bradley, black music in London is often creative expression and sometimes art, but almost without exception it is work… / Continued at Guardian Online

LAUNCH EVENTS AUG 21 & 22

➢ Aug 21: Lloyd Bradley will be discussing and reading the book at Housmans bookshop, Caledonian Road, on Wednesday… and at Rough Trade West on Aug 22

➢ Sounds Like London: 100 Years of Black Music in the Capital, by Lloyd Bradley, published Aug 15 by Serpent’s Tale, £12.99

➢ All power to Radio 4 for serialising Sounds Like London as its Book of the week – listen online for a few more days

➢ Bradbury interviewed by ITV News, Aug 12

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