Category Archives: Fashion

➤ A big wink to i-D on its 30th birthday

i-d magazine,covers,30th anniversary, Then Now Next

Launched August 1980: who’d have guessed that 72 covers and almost as many winkers later the magazine would have arrived at the end of its first decade?

❚ A MONTH AFTER i-D MAG’S LAUNCH in August 1980, cub-editor Perry Haines was bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, fresh from the St Martin’s fashion journalism course. Armed with such axioms as “Pitch and stitch dance hand in hand”, he was launching his club night at Gossip’s in Soho, calling it the i-D Sink or Swim night, admission £2.50. “We play 100mph dance music,” he said, meaning sounds like James White and the Blacks. “People are waiting for something to run with. They’re at the starting blocks.” Shapersofthe80s was there like a shot.

Launched as a quarterly in A4 fanzine format, economically printed in black-and-white and stapled, i-D was soon dubbed the UK “manual of style” for inventing the so-called straight-up more or less on the hoof: kids were photographed full-length, as and where they were found on the streets of Britain, then captioned down to the last thrift-shop nappy pin. Today editor-in-chief Terry Jones celebrates identity as the theme that has sustained his unique mag for three decades by turning the 30th birthday pre-fall issue of i-D over to the talented photographer Nick Knight, who was appointed an OBE in the most recent Queen’s birthday honours. It is one stunning run of superb black-and-white portraits of 200 people the mag believes are brainy, beautiful and downright gorgeous — from The xx, Phoebe Philo, Sir Paul Smith, Florence Welch to a rude Cerith Wyn Evans and a raunchy Vivienne Westwood, both enjoying their age disgracefully, plus three alternative cover stars epitomising this issue’s title of Then, Now and Next, Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell and Lady Gaga.

The key question is: How many of i-D’s 100 People of the 80s from Knight’s fifth anniversary shoot have made it into the 20-tens?! Uh-oh, only 12 found so far. Still counting.

Nick Knight, i-D 30th anniversary, Then Now Next

Nick Knight, then and now, separated by 25 years: captured by yours truly during his first shoot for i-D, titled People of the 80s, on the magazine’s fifth anniversary ... right, this year’s self-portrait as one of the world’s most innovative fashion photographers, taken for i-D’s 30th anniversary issue which he also art directs. Photographs © Shapersofthe80s and Nick Knight

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JULY ➤ 30 or so years ago today

ON THIS DAY IN 1977…

July 9 — Donna Summer No 1 with I Feel Love

ON THIS DAY IN 1979

July 4 — Blitz Kid Dencil Williams does Donna Summer at the Embassy Ball

ON THIS DAY IN 1980…

Gaz Mayall, Gaz's Rockin Blues, clubbing,LondonJune30-July 12 — Spandau Ballet play the Papagayo club in St Tropez: one booking but 12 gigs by playing nightly except Sundays.
July – Jane Kahn & Patti Bell open their shop in Great Gear Market, London
July 3 — Gaz Mayall starts his Rockin’ Blues on Thursday nights at Gossip’s club, Soho – London’s longest running club-night is still going strong at the St Moritz in Wardour Street
July 13 — Spandau Ballet’s Scala concert airs on London Weekend Television

ON THIS DAY IN 1981…

July 2 — Video for Spandau’s Chant No1 is shot at Le Beat Route
July 3 — New York Times carries first report of a mystery cancer killing gay men, much later identified as HIV/Aids
July 5-6 — Police attacked in riots at Toxteth, Liverpool
July 9 — Depeche Mode play Regency Suite, Chadwell Heath

ON THIS DAY IN 1983…

July — Mud Club moves to Fouberts, off Carnaby Street
July 7 — Jimmy the Hoover debut on Top of the Pops … Sade plays the Wag club

ON THIS DAY IN 1984…

July 3 — Spandau Ballet’s album Parade goes straight in at No 2 in the charts

JUNE ➤ 30 or so years ago today

ON THIS DAY IN 1978…

Human League, Being BoiledJune 17 — Fast Product releases the darkly mystical Being Boiled by Sheffield’s original Human League, and Bowie declares it “the future of music”. John Peel also champions the single on radio and it becomes a cult among the Billy’s and Blitz clubbing circle in London, though it does not chart until January 1982 on its second release. In the present day this is considered to be the first massively influential British electronic pop track.
VIEW ♫ Being Boiled live in 1978 on Granada TV, though the audio is dire!

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June 21 — Tim Rice and Andrew Lloyd Webber’s musical Evita opens at London’s Prince Edward Theatre to run for 2,900 performances. A novel ploy has been to release a double album two years earlier — some songs are already chart hits
June 29The Swinging 80s start here as David Bowie plays Earl’s Court, London. Sundry misfits recognise kindred spirits in the audience and gather afterwards at Billy’s club in Soho, long before the phrase New Romantics has been invented.

ON THIS DAY IN 1979…

June 9 — Music weekly Sounds publishes Mods Without Parkas by Garry Bushell
June 14 — The 70s “dressing up” imperative sees Flick’s in Dartford throw a VE Night deejayed by Radio London’s Robbie Vincent

ON THIS DAY IN 1980…

June 14 — George O’Dowd parades past Buckingham Palace as a helmeted and toga’d Britannia at the annual royal ceremony of trooping the colour

ON THIS DAY IN 1981…

June — The mainstream deejay’s bible Disco International publishes a plain man’s guide by yours truly, titled Who are the New Romantics and how do they dance?
June — John Boorman’s epic Arthurian movie Excalibur opens in London starring Nigel Terry and Helen Mirren
June 4 — Steve Strange and Rusty Egan open Club for Heroes in Baker Street
June 21 — Arty Latin popsters Blue Rondo à la Turk are unveiled in Chelmsford after weeks of secret tease dates. Yours truly is there to introduce the band to readers of New Sounds New Styles under the headline He thinks he is Geronimo but Chris Sullivan is turning fantasy into fact

ON THIS DAY IN 1982…

Blitz Kids, Kate Garner, Jeremy Healy ,Haysi Fantayzee ,Paul Caplin, John Wayne Big Leggy

Haysi Fantayzee 1982: ex-Blitz Kids Kate Garner, Jeremy Healy and manager Paul Caplin

June 9 — Kasper de Graaf, editor of New Romantic magazine New Sounds New Styles, tells the Rebel Writers the title is to close and they are out of jobs. We retire to the Red Lion to seek consolation!
June 14 — The Falklands War ends with the Argentine surrender. Its occupation of the Falkland Islands in the South Atlantic had provoked a war that lasted 74 days and results in the deaths of 260 Britons and 649 Argentinians
June 21 — At the V&A the Middlesex fashion degree show is stolen by Stevie Stewart and David Holah. Their Matelots and Milkmaids collection establishes Bodymap as the label for the young and daring
June 25 — As Haysi Fantayzee, Blitz Kids Kate Garner and Jeremy Healy release their debut single John Wayne is Big-leggy

ON THIS DAY IN 1983…

June 14 — Capital Radio’s Gary Crowley starts deejaying at Bogart’s club, Harrow

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1978 ➤ Midge stakes his claim as the weathervane of synth-pop who helped shape the British New Wave

Rusty Egan, Steve Strange, Midge Ure, Visage, synth-pop, new wave, electro-pop, Rocking the Blitz,BBC

Visage Mk 1: Egan, Strange and Ure in 1978 searching for sounds and styles

❚ “I’LL NEVER FORGET FIRST TIME I SAW a synthesiser on Tomorrow’s World. For the first time I saw the possibility to create sounds that had only existed in my head. I’d had no chance of getting my hands on one because they were size of house or at least the cost of one. But then cheaper Japanese synths came on the market, so I bought one. It changed my life because I could make music in a small home studio. The possibilities for young musicians like myself seemed endless.”

This was Midge Ure enthusing during Rocking the Blitz Club (audio at YouTube), another remarkably well-informed BBC Radio 4 documentary on our favourite scene that went out this morning. It was also remarkable for handing over the commentary to Ure, who — despite having earned an OBE for being half the brains behind Band Aid’s smash hit for charity in 1984, and being a founder member of Visage and the voice of Ultravox’s directional chart hit Vienna — is not among the first rank of mythologists programme-makers wheel out to explain the Blitz phenomenon.

This R4 slice of the 80s gave us a refreshingly different take on the familiar fables recycled by the usual suspects, but mediated in this show by Midge’s deeply un-London Lanarkshire lilt. He’s more than qualified to stake his claim to have shaped the music of the Blitz Kids, though he’s reluctant to be described as one of them, being a good four years older, and having had fingers in more pop pies than most on the post-punk scene. Even as the word punk was given the heave-ho in favour of the term “new wave”, Ure was probably the first active player of a synth among any of his clubbing pals, having bought his first, the polyphonic CS-50, at cost direct from Yamaha in the summer of ’78.

His was an obsession shared by fellow Rich Kid, the drummer Rusty Egan, and it led the way to a whole new British dancefloor sound. Ure felt synths “embodied a kind of nostalgia for the future”.

Visage, Fade to Grey,He says: “Rusty and his friend Steve Strange realised our crowd needed somewhere to try out our styles and listen to Euro synth bands like Kraftwerk, Dusseldorf and Telex, whose cutting edge sounds seemed to represent the future.” In almost no time the tribal forces of fashion had granted their wish. Rusty’s deejaying at Billy’s in Soho was augmented by Strange vetting the door to ensure an extreme clubbing attitude, then as 1979 dawned their band of outlandishly dressed clubbing heroes descended on the Blitz.

In his straight-from-the-hip autobiography, If I Was, Midge Ure makes the bold claim: “I had this idea to make music to play in the club. We had to invent our own musical style because our points of reference were very limited — after Kraftwerk, Yello and early Bowie we ran out of influences.” His own taste was for the very textured sounds of the synth built round classic songs, which intuitively caught a mood, unarticulated at that time, for a return to melody. And yet …

“A synth is just a software program and it has a very specific sound — a cold European soulless sound that drummers couldn’t emulate. Only a machine could do this,” he says with eagerness appropriate to a new-wave innovator. “Everybody aspired to be a robot — we didn’t want any human element in there at all, so people sang in a very robotic way. It was not going to sound like Jimi Hendrix. It was going to sound like a watered down version of Kraftwerk.”

❚ MIDGE IS THE ONLY PERSON AMONG THE NEW ROMANTICS to go on record and acknowledge the role of Gary Numan, an otherwise dread name who was perceived as an aloof and unclubbable loner. He definitely never signed in at the Blitz. Yet as 1979 unfolded Numan’s dystopian sci-fi synth sound sidestepped the Blitz Kids to reach No 1 in the UK charts, twice: in May with Are Friends Electric? and in September with Cars. They were blatantly commercial records and that wasn’t how Blitz Kids defined cool.

But Ure recognised Numan had broken down barriers of disapproval within the old guard of the music biz. He was being a great spur. Ure dreamed up the name Visage for his new band who knocked out a demo covering the classic In The Year 2525, with Egan on drums and the eye-catching Strange posing away as vocalist after a few lessons from Ure. Despite music industry scepticism, it won them a deal with Radar Records, the attention of producer Martin Rushent who had an office above the Blitz, and helped rope in Magazine members Dave Formula, John McGeoch and Barry Adamson, and Ultravox keyboardist Billy Currie. A single called Tar was released that September. It didn’t chart, but did clinch them a bigger deal with Polydor in 1980.

Midge Ure, Vienna, Ultravox

The day job: in 1979 Midge Ure (moustachioed) resurrected the name of Ultravox along with (l-r) Warren Cann, Chris Cross and Billy Currie. © Getty

Ure says: “Visage was never really a proper band, just a group of our favourite musicians who we brought together to make experimental music for the Blitz club. Because they were all signed to other labels we chose Steve Strange as our frontman because he looked the part.” This worked well enough. Even while Ure and Currie part-timed with the seven-man studio-only Visage line-up, while steering Ultravox along similar synth-pop lines, Visage put out two successful albums, and a handful of chart singles (the most enduring being Fade to Grey in November 1980). What laid the pathfinding flares for the movement were some uber-stylish art-videos — the first starred Blitz coat-check girl Julia Fodor before she became the fabulous princess and deejay — which disseminated the OTT New Romantic ethos for fans to emulate.

Ure scored the significant double of taking Ultravox’s majestic Vienna to No 2 a month later and for four weeks, then seeing it win Single of the Year at the 1981 Brit Awards. It was produced by the German Conny Plank with an evocatively romantic landmark video stunningly directed by Russell Mulcahy who was creating a whole visual vocabulary for the then novel music video. Ure can take full credit as lead singer and guitarist for breathing a subtle blend of Roxy Music’s style and krautrock clarity into Ultravox and building them into a credible vanguard for the electronic New Wave.

Reflecting back in the R4 doc, Ure says: “There’s no doubt the early 80s was a golden age of music made by real popstars who created themselves. It was more than just padded shoulders and asymmetrical haircuts. It was a pivotal moment in our cultural history when new tech mixed with new ideas to create something really good. All in the pressure cooker environment that was the Blitz club.”

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2010 ➤ Comeback Shard comfy as ‘Auntie Sade’

Sade  1983

Wow! Then and now: Sade backstage in August 1983 while still seeking a recording contract and, right, as shot to launch her 2010 album. Vintage picture © by Shapersofthe80s

SADE IS TALKING FRANKLY AND REFLECTIVELY. It’s a rare treat from a singer who rarely ever breaks cover. Ten years on from her last album, Lovers Rock, she is said to be the most successful solo female artist Britain has ever produced – more than 50m albums sold over 26 years, valued at £30m in The Sunday Times Rich List. She is the first to acknowledge that Sade is a band, and together they have won a Brit Award for Best British Album of 1984 (view award speech) plus nine other Brit nominations, three Grammies (for 1985, 1993, 2001, plus two other nominations) and Sade herself was appointed an OBE, an order of chivalry, by the Queen (2002).

Sade Adu,New York, Axiom, fashion, Blitz Kids, Ian Watts,Princess Diana

New York 1981, preparing for the Axiom show that accompanied Spandau Ballet on the first Blitz Kids invasion: In braided short hair and hallmark narrow pants, Sade fits a model with her outfit on the Demob label. Sade once told Shapers that Princess Diana’s question to her after a Prince’s Trust concert was: “Do you always dress like a man?” Photographed © by Shapersofthe80s

In yesterday’s Sunday Times Magazine, according to the writer Robert Sandall whom Sade knows of old, the Blitz clubbing veteran was giving the only face-to-face interview to coincide with this month’s release of her new album, titled Soldier of Love.

Sandall delivers full value as Sade really does let her guard down, surprisingly further than most of us who used to know her might have expected, especially about her “complicated” inter-racial family background. (She was born Helen Folasade Adu in Nigeria, raised in the UK at Clacton-on-Sea, and took a fashion BA at St Martin’s School of Art). She also talks about motherhood with a 13-year-old daughter and her several romances – “I’ve paid some rugged dues,” she observes. Highlights among many soundbites…

❏ On being a black singer in a white soul outfit: “I didn’t have any confidence as a singer, but I found that I liked writing songs.”

❏ The same band of clubbing wags from 1983 is reunited for the album – Paul Denman, Andrew Hale and Stuart Matthewman. They remain one tight unit on the new album, we’re told, under the control of a matriarch who likes the nickname “Auntie Sade”. [Note for newbies: say it Shah-day /ʃɑːˈdeɪ/. Only friends are allowed to use the nickname Shard.]

❏ On her new man, Ian Watts, who has been in turn Royal Marine, fireman and scientist: “I always said that if I could just find a guy who could chop wood and had a nice smile it didn’t bother me if he was an aristocrat or a thug as long as he was a good guy. I’ve ended up with an educated thug!”

❏ The old charge that Sade was the backdrop of the yuppie era still rankles: “With my family history, that really irks me. And it so annoyed me at the time, when we were secretly giving money we didn’t even have yet to Arthur Scargill and the striking miners.”

One year’s progress: left, Sade with Latin soul band Pride at the Fridge, Sep 1982; and with the smaller band Sade in Aug 1983 at the Yow club, London, Paul Denman to the fore. Ten months after splitting they had a record deal. Photographed © by Shapersofthe80s

Sade

Sade 2010: Talks us through her new album in a video documentary

➢➢ For links to new video documentary and tracks see Sade box in sidebar, right

➢➢ A Reluctant Return: In this month’s New York Times interview, Sade worries about being “too candid” with the press, yet reveals she is considering marriage

➢➢ Kanye collaboration rumours in this National Post interview, Feb 16, 2010

➢➢ Compare and contrast quotes with this version at ThisIsGloucestershire!

➢➢ Click for pix of Sade’s Demob designs during 1981’s first Blitz invasion of the US

➢➢ More pix of Sade helping backstage during Steve Strange’s 1982 fashion show in Paris

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