Tag Archives: Kim Bowen

➤ Record numbers visit Shapersofthe80s for the best Blitz Kid photos and eye-witness memories

Planets club in Piccadilly, 1981: George O’Dowd before he became Boy, his sidekick and future singer Marilyn, and fashion goddess Kim Bowen. Photographed by Shapersofthe80s

❚ 2011 WAS A BUMPER YEAR for Shapersofthe80s. Visits to this website have doubled year on year, to a total of 174,658 page views during 2011. Also during the past six months, views increased by 40% over the previous six months — driven substantially by our exclusive pictures of Steve Norman’s wedding, and by exploring the heritage which informs We Can Be Heroes, Graham Smith’s definitive new photobook about 80s clubbing.

Of all topic areas, inevitably Blitz Kids and New Romantics have attracted most visits — about 16,000 views in total. Nightclubbing in the 80s came third with 11,000. Discover why, inside at Why them? Why then?

Most popular popstars viewed here in 2011 …

Martin Kemp, Steve Norman, NYC,Axiom,fashion

Lexington Avenue 1981: A fashion shoot features Martin Kemp wearing Demob and Steve Norman wearing Pallium, along with local girls. Photographed © by David Spahn

1 — Spandau Ballet — Total page views include Tony Hadley’s international tour with John Keeble, Steve Norman’s wedding, Martin Kemp’s cinematic triumphs and Gary Kemp as cultural pundit, as each of the band members has been pursuing his own interests since their farewell performance in July 2010.

2 — Boy George whose rise and fall seems Greek in its tragedic possibilities.

3 — Duran Duran who have patiently rebuilt their credibility over the past year. (Of their total page views here, almost half came in one day, yesterday*)

4 — Paradise Point — Britain’s brightest new pop musicians who mysteriously vanished from the stage almost as soon as they had published one of the most seductive videos of the year [see below].

5 — Sade whose long-awaited world tour slaked her fans’ thirst and gave her a No 1 album on both sides of the Atlantic.

6 — George Michael — another 80s survivor whose vulnerability almost renders him indestructible.

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Steady attractions at Shapersofthe80s are the post about John Rutter’s royal wedding anthem, and historically important interviews with the painter David Hockney (1983) and with Beatle John Lennon (1966).

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* It is an astonishing statistical exception that yesterday proved our busiest day of the year thanks entirely to Duran Duran sharing on Facebook the link to our choice of the 10 most creative tribute videos celebrating their comeback. So, despite our having followed Duran’s world tour since their newest album was launched in 2010, almost as many fans visited in a single day as during the entire year to date.
❏ iPAD, TABLET & MOBILE USERS PLEASE NOTE — You may see only a tiny selection of items from this wide-ranging website about the 1980s, not chosen by the author. To access fuller background features and site index either click on “Standard view” or visit Shapersofthe80s.com on a desktop computer. ➢ Click here to visit a different random item every time you click

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➤ The Bowie factor at the Blitz: glamour, drama and collage couture

Iain Webb at St Martin’s School of Art in 1977 — photographed by fellow student Stephen Jones who went on to become an international hat-maker

❚ FOR TODAY’S HUFFINGTON POST, Iain R Webb, former Blitz Kid and later Times of London fashion editor, writes of the imminent photo-book about the tumultuous fashion and music scene that emerged from London’s Blitz Club in 1980. We Can Be Heroes by Graham Smith is a fascinating documentation of the demimonde nightclub scene from punk through New Romantic and out the other side… Webb writes:

It is certainly fitting that Smith has chosen the Bowie lyric as the title of his book because Bowie is to thank for inspiring the transformational theatrics employed by the Blitz Club regulars. In the early 1970s Bowie brought glamour and drama to rock music at a time when it was difficult to tell if the denim clad hairy on stage had nodded off during the drum solo. He was a shrewd style thief, an ardent advocate of collage couture. One of the only musicians to survive the vicious tongue-lashing of punk, it was Bowie who helped fuel the electro soundtrack of the 80s’ subterranean underworld. His Berlin trilogy of albums — Low, Heroes and Lodger — explored the neue world of Kraftwerk and machine Muzak. Although let’s not forget to credit Giorgio Moroder and Donna Summer who had been knocking out the electronic beats in the gay clubs of many a twelve-inch single / continued online

➢ A new book about 1980s club kids by Iain R Webb
at The Huffington Post

➢ When Iain met Stephen, London traffic stopped
and St Martin’s stood still

A sample spread from We Can Be Heroes by Graham Smith: his photos here show Blitz Kid style-leaders Kim Bowen, “Boy” George O’Dowd and Stephen Linard

THREE WEEKS LEFT TO RAISE THE CASH

❏ Will you help ensure publication of We Can Be Heroes by buying your personal copy today? Graham Smith’s book is the definitive history of early 80s nightclub music and style, which were the last manifestation of Britain’s collaborative youth culture. Alongside Graham’s superb photographs is racy text by Chris Sullivan, fabled host of Soho’s long-running Wag club, plus much other celebrity commentary.

Unbound is a new “crowd-funding” company run by three young dynamos well versed in publishing who are ensuring high-quality printing in Germany of this 320-page hardback using 180gsm paper, all in time for Christmas, priced £30. Visit Graham’s page at Unbound to discover why your immediate contribution towards the cost of the limited first edition is so important that the book will carry your name as an early supporter.

➢ £30 buys you the hardback first edition of We Can Be Heroes and your name printed inside — £50 buys an autographed copy and there are many other perks including a de luxe edition

❏ iPAD, TABLET & MOBILE USERS PLEASE NOTE — You be see only a tiny selection of items from this wide-ranging website about the 1980s, not chosen by the author. To access fuller background features and site index either click on “Standard view” or visit Shapersofthe80s.com on a desktop computer. ➢ Click here to visit a different random item every time you click

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➤ Britain’s top hatter, Stephen Jones OBE, celebrates 30 years of Jonesmanship

On Facebook today Stephen Jones writes:

“7pm, 1st Oct 1980, 30 years ago today, I opened my first
hat salon in Covent Garden, with the fabulous Kim Bowen and the super talented Lee Sheldrick (R.I.P). Thank you all, it’s been an amazing adventure! Xs”

Lee Sheldrick, Kim Bowen, Stephen Jones, PX shop

The first Jones salon: star rebels from St Martin’s Lee Sheldrick assisting and Kim Bowen modelling at Stephen Jones’s boutique in PX, October 1980

❚ FROM 1978 HELEN ROBINSON HAD MADE HER SHOP PX the flagship for New Romantic ready-to-wear in James Street, Covent Garden, all velvet suits, Robin Hood jackets and hippy frills. In February, 1980, it moved a few yards round the corner to bigger premises in Endell Street. Since his graduation from St Martin’s in 1979, Stephen Jones’s uncompromising hats had made the perfect accessories for the excesses of PX so Robinson and partner Stephane Raynor made space in the basement for Jones’s own hat salon. He says: “To get the finance I sold my car, an ex-GPO mini-van, for £150, and that’s how I started the business.” Blitz club-host Steve Strange was a regular customer. Inevitably, the whole place became a social centre for fellow Blitz Kids, the clubbing fashionistas who were by then regular faces in fashion pages and gossip columns. Stephen’s wittily titled “First Collection” was previewed on October 1 and commissions came in from the New Romantic pop groups Visage and Spandau Ballet who were releasing debut records that autumn, from Grace Jones and, later, Boy George.

Stephen Jones ,millinery, Kim Bowen, Peter Ashworth

Stephen Jones and Kim Bowen, dressed by PX, topped out by Jones, 1979: business card for the milliner and his mannequin de vie. Photographed © by Peter Ashworth

Stephen Jones, Culture Club, music video, J-P Gaultier

“Very Tangiers in Paul Bowles’s 1950s”: In Culture Club’s first video, 1982, Jones wears the fez that caught J-P Gaultier’s eye. Also a pale blue zoot-suit from Flip, and correspondent shoes in black and pale blue

With the dawn of the 1980s, Britain’s outlandish street styles drew the attention of the world’s leading fashion tastemakers who had to start taking London Fashion Week seriously, to the benefit of a new generation of designers and established names alike. The sheer wit and chutzpah of Stephen Jones millinery played brilliantly to both marketplaces and with Diana Spencer’s marriage to the Prince of Wales the Princess became an international icon for classic British elegance, and a huge fan of the quixotic Jones look. Though he says now that he never drew up a career plan, he did enjoy one lucky break after another: “I had a phone call one day from Vogue who were coordinating a wardrobe for the Princess of Wales and I made quite a few hats for her early on.”

Culture Club’s phenomenal global appeal also established Boy George as Britain’s alternative fashion icon. In another stroke of fate, Jones says that it was his red fez worn while sitting in the audience during Culture Club’s first video, Do You Really Want To Hurt Me (filmed in Soho’s Gargoyle club in 1982), that caught the attention of the French designer Jean-Paul Gaultier. Two years later Jones went to design hats in Paris for Gaultier who was building his own reputation as an enfant terrible. He says now: “Working in Paris then was slightly akin to sleeping with the enemy, and I got gyp from the British Fashion Council who didn’t approve.”

Julia Fodor, Princess Diana, Stephen Jones, hats

Early Jones creations: modelled by Julia Fodor, by appointment to Princess Di

Jones’s familiar bald dome came about after he shaved his head as a crazy gesture, only to discover that it was the same size as the average milliner’s model, which is normally a wooden block, and ever since he has played the role of his own hat mould. Jones’s favourite show was his first for another designer, Zandra Rhodes in 1981. “It was huge — extravagant production, hundreds of models, over the top make-up, vertiginous shoes, tantrums, tears. I loved it.”

His reputation soared in the early days on the coat-tails of such provocateurs as Vivienne Westwood, Claude Montana and Thierry Mugler. When in 1996, the younger St Martin’s superstar, John Galliano, crossed the Channel to design for Christian Dior, the fashion world was amazed. Within minutes, he had invited Jones to join his team and be the milliner at Dior. As Galliano’s dreams became the stuff of legend, his runway shows became ever more spectacular, while the Jones confections reached new heights of extravagance.

Stephen Jones, hats, Peter Ashworth

Jones creations from 2002, photographed © by Peter Ashworth

Jones declares: “Just as accents in language lead to the correct reading and rhythm of a text, my hats add the appropriate punctuation to a designer’s fashion statement.”

Today style-icons crave to wear Jones — think of Gwen Stefani, Beyonce Knowles, Kylie Minogue, Alison Goldfrapp — while yet more of the world’s cutting-edge designers commission his creations to enhance their collections. Today they include Rei Kawakubo, Comme des Garcons, Azzedine Alaïa, Loewe, Giles Deacon, Kinder, Issa, Donna Karan, Jason Wu, L’Wren Scott and Marc Jacobs. Back at his Georgian London boutique a few doors along from the former Blitz club, Jones also designs the Miss Jones and JonesBoy diffusion ranges in addition to his Model Millinery collection. “My British milliners are the best in the world,” he maintains. “The hat is a certain British thing that people do love wearing.”

Stephen Jones, hatmaker,Madonna, Madonna, millinery, MoMu, V&A

Then and now: Stephen Jones enlists as a student at St Martin’s 1976, and curates a show of landmark designs at the V&A museum 2009. Union Jack top-hat photographed © by Justine

Last year London’s Victoria & Albert Museum staged a huge exhibition entitled Hats, An Anthology by Stephen Jones, which attracted 100,000 visitors and has since set off on a world tour. This summer he has been working on Sex and the City 2, and told Vogue.com that he had been recruited by Madonna for her latest film, W.E., based on the life of King Edward VIII (played by James D’Arcy) who in 1936 gave up his throne for the American Wallis Simpson (played by Andrea Riseborough). “Madonna is directing it and she asked me to do the hats. Somehow I’ve ended up starring in it, too.”

This autumn Antwerp’s Mode Museum (MoMu) is hosting a solo exhibition of 120 hats, Stephen Jones & The Accent of Fashion (Sept 8-Feb 13, 2011), plus his work in film, music and photography. He explains the magic of the titfer: “A hat makes clothing identifiable, dramatic – and most important, Fashion … It’s the dot on the i, the exclamation mark, the fashion focus. Everyone from showgirls to dictators knows that by wearing a hat they will be the centre of attention.”

The crowning glory for 30 years of dotting the i’s came this spring when Her Maj the Queen recognised the mad hatter’s achievements by appointing him to the Order of the British Empire. Hats off to the Age of Jonesmanship!

MoMu, Fashion Museum, Antwerp, Stephen Jones, The Accent of Fashion

MoMu Fashion Museum Antwerp: Stephen Jones & The Accent of Fashion photographed © by Frederik Vercruysse

VIEW an i-D video at the Antwerp show in which Jones declares:

“At school science was my best subject. Millinery combines physics and art together in a weird mix — you can’t have one without the other.”

Detailed interview with Stephen Jones in Antwerp for the Independent

 Stephen Jones

His sobriquet fulfilled by photographer Annie Leibovitz: Stephen Jones as the Mad Hatter in The Mad Tea Party (detail), one of a series of Alice in Wonderland tableaux shot for American Vogue, December 2004

Showstudio has intelligent backgrounders from Jones’s V&A anthology

Stephen Jones, interview, Showstudio, Alex Fury
❚ UPDATE — STEPHEN JONES DISCREETLY MENTIONS A CHARMING, frank, gossipy and self-effacing interview with him which has just popped up on Showstudio (despite being dated May) and, as if by telepathy, addresses many questions begged by the brief Shapers outline above! “Steve Strange was, apart from my Mum, my first paying customer” … “I appear to have reinvented the world of millinery but I didn’t have a grand purpose like that at the beginning. I just wanted to go to a great party.” Who is this perceptive young interviewer Alex Fury? With a name like that he will go far.
➢ Video: Stephen Jones interviewed for Showstudio

Stephen Jones, David Holah, Blitz Kids, New Romantics,

New Romantics cutting loose, 1981: Stephen Jones in PX’s definitive Little Lord Fauntleroy outfit jives with designer David Holah who went on to co-found the BodyMap empire. Photograph © by Alan Davidson

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1980 ➤ 2010, the stage magic that inspires Romantics ancient and Neo

An exceptional cabaret performer called Taylor Mac
hit London this week in 2010. He subverted not only
theatrical conventions but several classic Bowie songs
to glorious effect. His shimmering presence sent out
echoes of how we defined itzy-Blitzy when 1980 dawned…

Billy’s club,Helen Robinson, nightlife, London ,Steve Strange, PX

Billy’s club 1978: Strange as Ruritanian Space Cadet alongside PX designer Helen Robinson. (Photograph by © Nicola Tyson)

❚ LET’S RECALL WHAT MADE THE BLITZ KIDS unique in 1980. Singer Andy Polaris said soon after: “Anyone who thought it was all a pantomime got the wrong end of the Pan Stik. Blitz people had to be larger than life. It was a compulsion. If it doesn’t possess you, you can’t acquire it.”

An evening within the orbit of London’s Blitz club superstars – and we’re talking about 50 people here – was more than entertaining. You were zapped with a very tangible electric shock – what we’d call today “sensory overload” – as if these exquisite, compulsive posers had revitalised Gilbert & George’s notion from 1969 of processing through the world as living sculptures. The Blitz Kids generated their own crackling versions of hyper-reality that defined the space around them. They included Kim, Julia, Judi, Melissa, Fiona, Jayne, Theresa, Myra, Scarlett, Clare, Michele, Darla, Sade, Kate, Stevie, Naomi, Mandy, Helen, Jo, Perri, Christine and Franceska . . . the Stephens Linard and Jones, Lee, John, Cerith, Simon, Iain, Andy, George, Marilyn, Wilf, Greg, Jeffrey, Christos, Graham, Neil, Dencil, Robert, the Holah brothers, the Richards Ostell and Sharah. A fair few other Blitz Kids, like Strange, Egan, Elms, Sullivan, Dagger, Haines, Ure, O’Donnell, Mole, Ball and Lewis, had the motormouth skills of energetic talkers and schemers who were, as we say today, “good in the room”. Above all, the best among them “made things happen” wherever they set foot. That’s why spending time with them was the best kind of fun – stimulating, argumentative and constructive, whether idling at a bar or bounding around the beach on Bournemouth bank holidays.

Kim Bowen, Stephen Linard, Blitz Kids, London

Doyennes among the Blitz Kids, 1980: Kim Bowen and Stephen Linard stamp themselves on that week’s zombie leitmotif. Photographed © by Derek Ridgers

Even so, what marked out the fashionistas especially was that, not only in the club, but in shop, café and bus, the style stars were constantly emitting auras of the force you imagined once surrounded Dietrich or Garland or Bogart or Caine. There’s nothing accidental about style. It is by definition a considered stance. In the presence of the Blitz superstars you could hold up your hands and almost feel the crumpet-toasting tingle. Even jaded Londoners turned their heads when Kim walked the half mile from Warren Street to St Martin’s school of art swathed only in surgical bandages. Or when George paraded past Buckingham Palace as a helmeted and toga’d Britannia at the annual royal ceremony of trooping the colour.

Princess Julia, Chris Sullivan, deejays, Vintage 2011,Southbank Centre, clubbing

Vintage deejays: original Blitz Kids such as Princess Julia and Chris Sullivan have continued spinning the vinyl that recreated legendary 80s club soundtracks from the Blitz to the Wag

Wherever there was a party, premiere, exhibition or club opening you’d see a dozen more such creatures who lived hyper-reality 24 hours a day… Lee perhaps as Nosferatu, Julia as Bride of Frankenstein, Fiona saying “Non!” to couture by wearing a grosgrain coat back-to-front, Sullivan as 1920s cad, blue-lipped Linard as 1920s flapper, Marilyn as, well, Monroe, Stewart as geisha boy, Theresa as Little Bo Peep, a part she played at work in the Fleet Street offices where our paths often crossed.

Aplomb came naturally to Kim Bowen as the queen of the Blitz Kids. One night when some friends came back to mine after celebrating my birthday, Kim walked into the kitchen and said: “I’m not going to let you live with this wallpaper one more day.” She picked at the edge of a stiff vinyl-coated strip, printed with very 1960s pepperpots and pans. Then she ripped it off the wall in one heave. The kitchen walls were bare within 20 minutes. Kim declared: “Minimalism, David, that’s you need.”

Clare Thom, Michele Clapton, Blitz Kids

Blitz Kid style: Outside the Carburton Street squat, Clare-with-the-Hair and Michele Clapton displaying awesome repose. Photographed © by Derek Ridgers

As time would reveal, the lead Blitz Kids outflanked not only their peers, but most of the copyists who followed their Bowie-inspired passion for change. You’d find the second-league clubbers at Studio 21 in Oxford Street, or in a back barrel at Birmingham’s Rum Runner – those were the self-proclaimed New Romantics you see dancing in the YouTube videos, and being photographed wearing too much of everything, from Boots No 7 to lacy frills. A couple of years after the Blitz caravanserai had passed, designer Fiona Dealey said candidly: “You look at these little Bat-people with it dribbling down their necks and you feel like saying, ‘Sorry darling, not enough loose powder’. The difference was that our make-up was stage slap, Leichner not Factor. The clothes came from a costumier, Charles Fox, not Flip. Dressing for the Blitz was real theatre. It wasn’t just another uniform. You felt glamorous.”

Stephen Jones, Blitz Kids

Immaculate: Hatter Stephen Jones

Aha, real theatre! This is the realm Shakespeare championed as “an improbable fiction” and John Updike blasted as the “unreality of painted people”. A flesh-and-blood craft where the basic requirement is for a living audience to be watching living actors. The Blitz Kids fully understood what Shakespeare’s Player has to explain to Rosencrantz and Guildenstern in Tom Stoppard’s spoof version of Hamlet: “We’re actors. We’re the opposite of people.” Actors pledge themselves to the belief that somebody will be watching. Nothing to do with vanity. Entirely a means of confirming their identity. Ditto the Blitz Kids.

The digital natives (and the self-styled Neo Romantics) of Generation Z who today are being raised on computer shoot-em-ups and quaking cinema enjoy precious little exposure to live theatre, to the “magic” that emanates from the contract eagerly agreed between actor and audience – for the one to perform at the same time as the other watches. Only when, as one towering example, Sir Michael Gambon allows a Pinteresque pause to elapse onstage can auras crackle “in the moment” with sufficient intensity to be felt physically, and thrillingly, by a theatre audience. Gambon’s aura crackled like a fire god’s last Christmas in No Man’s Land, before a wrapt audience the day after its author Harold Pinter had died.

Max Wall, Ken Dodd

Masters of the comedian’s art: Max Wall and Ken Dodd

Comedy is where the theatrical contract of give-and-take fights for life most ostentatiously. As you laugh helplessly at the veteran comic Ken Dodd’s rapid-fire patter, you needn’t know that he has subjected his live stand-up routine to a lifelong time-and-motion study that concluded he must hurl eight gags per minute at his audiences to ensure everybody laughs at least once every minute he’s onstage.

Travesties, Tom Stoppard, theatre

Travesties: what a coincidence that in 1917 the revolutionary Lenin, the novelist James Joyce and the Dadaist poet Tristan Tzara all happened to live in Zurich

In London in 1982 it was no less a pleasure to witness the top-of-the-bill variety legend Max Wall give wondrous live masterclasses entitled An Evening with Max Wall in which, aged 74, he laid bare how comedic timing works from one second to the next, how facial expression and vocal cadence, as well as silly walks can turn laughter instantly on and also off. Demonstrating with us as guinea-pigs how performer’s and viewer’s mutual responses keep each other on their toes.

The playwright Tom Stoppard has spent his career writing pyrotechnic scripts that read wittily enough sitting on the page, but are transformed several hundredfold the moment they are enacted on the stage, by for example exploiting the improbability of time-warps where the actors and the action are rewound and rerun in “unreal time” – actors reverse back through doors to leave the stage and re-enter immediately giving a subtly adjusted performance – as in Travesties, his hilarious comedy of coincidence. His plays are overtly “about” theatricality, yet shrouded by the mischievous apologia that, as one of his characters ultimately insists, “It’s a mystery”.

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GETTING BACK TO Taylor Mac,
his little bit of itzy-Blitzy glitz gives
shape to all of the above

Taylor Mac, Glasgow, London, Bowie, Comparison is Violence,cabaret

Taylor Mac 2010: sequinned, painted and bewigged as Bowie-cum-Tiny Tim. Photographed © by Tim Hailand

SO WHERE MAY TODAY’S young Neo Romantic seek inspiration if he or she wishes to aim beyond the slap and the zhoosh to summon up solar-powered charisma of Blitz Kid proportions? The answer is in the UK right now (Soho Theatre London this week, The Arches in Glasgow next) and he is an incandescent and witty Californian called Taylor Mac.

TAYLOR MAC

Mac as himself

Clad in more sequins than a sultan’s harem could shake at you, he gives a full-throttle musical cabaret that is unexpectedly poignant, invigorating and original. You also laugh more than you ever did at Eddie Izzard’s last side-splitting tour. Mac’s audacious dissection of the essence of theatre, vaudeville and other performing arts evokes Merman and Garland, Wainwright and Brel while asserting his own unique brio. He reinvents pop classics by David Bowie and Tiny Tim (yes, you do remember his hits Tiptoe Through the Tulips and I’ve Never Seen a Straight Banana) by delivering them with an earnestness that moistens the tear-ducts. The evening’s ironic sub-title is The Ziggy Stardust Meets Tiny Tim Songbook, because these are the comparisons reviewers draw about Mac, yet they seldom remark on how he turns Starman and Heroes, those holy invocations of the 80s Bowie fan, into altogether heart-rendingly new songs.

His themes are love and longing and role-play and tolerance for what society calls a gender-bending misfit who sprang fully formed from the egg, craving the glue that fixes eyelashes. What results is the most stupendous spectacle, charged with insights as mere as how to signal the end of a song, one way being a sustained high note, another to deliver a wide-eyed “Cha-cha-cha!” through smiling teeth, but the coup de grace is a solemn downward arm gesture LIKE SO! For 90 minutes Mac fills the Soho Theatre many times over with a sustained rush of theatre magic. And yes of course he’s on YouTube, but that entirely defeats the point the past 1,700 words have been making.

➢➢ Read Donald Hutera’s London review of Mac
in The Times, June 3, 2010

➢➢ Read Charles Isherwood on Mac’s 2009 play
The Lily’s Revenge in the New York Times

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