2024 ➤ Farewell to Linard, the craziest man I’ve known

Stephen Linard, Blitz Kids, fashion, New Romantics, Canvey Island,

Stephen Linard in 2018: A last pint at his local pub before moving away from Canvey Island. (Photo @ Shapersofthe80s)

INCREDIBLE!!!! Update – Shapersofthe80s has received 8,100 hits during the three days since Stephen’s death. Thank you to his fans

❚ HARD TO ACCEPT THAT STEPHEN LINARD has now died from the extensive throat cancer that had caused him so much pain recently. He was one of the craziest of eccentrics who frequently made me laugh out loud. We met at a party at Steve Strange’s flat in 1980 when he was among the sharpest half-dozen Blitz Kids who changed their looks daily and put the Blitz Club on the map. We hit it off immediately and I soon latched onto the star trio of Stephen, Kim Bowen and Lee Sheldrick who went everywhere together.

I photographed his degree show and over the years helped him through various projects in that era when St Martin’s School of Art failed to equip its graduates with any guidance for running their own businesses. Luckily, pop stars from Pet Shop Boys to U2 and even Bowie readily adopted his strong styles and in 1983 the American fashion press included him among the eight most influential London designers [see link below], noted for his strong eye for colour.

From 1983 to ’86 Stephen lived in Tokyo designing for Jun Co, the fashion giant, on a salary which, he liked to boast, exceeded the prime minister Margaret Thatcher’s. From 1989 until recently Stephen was a key player on the design team at Drake’s, the respected men’s haberdasher off Savile Row (pictured below). The main photo (above) marked a last pint at his local pub on Canvey Island where he lived in his late mother’s house until 2020 before joining the Old Romantic Folks who go on retiring to St Leonard’s-on-Sea.

Only six months ago, as if in anticipation of the worst, Stephen staged a striking exhibition of his early illustrations, titled Total Fashion Victim after the club-night he had hosted at Soho’s coolest hang-out, the Wag. I was lucky enough to write the outline catalogue with him.

drakes-london, Stephen Linard, British tailoring, haberdashery,fashion

Former Blitz Kid and St Martin’s fashion graduate Stephen Linard in 2011: a designer with Drake’s, the gentlemen’s haberdasher, seen here at a staff preview for the opening of its first shop just off Savile Row. (Photograph © Shapersofthe80s)

MORE ON STEPHEN INSIDE

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s: 2023, Total Fashion Victim – Linard’s exhibition of his early work

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s:
The Blitz Kids WATN? No 28, Stephen Linard

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s:
1980, Linard’s Alternative student show gives
Goths their archaic name

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s:
1982, Six British designers take London fashion
to the French

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s: Overseas influencers
declare eight hot fashion Brits for 1984

THE PROFESSIONAL TRIBUTES

➢ Stephen Linard, London designer, image maker and Blitz Kid, dead at 64 – Detailed analysis of his talents at Women’s Wear Daily, March 2024

➢ Goodbye, Stephen Linard: It was a privilege to know you – by novelist Maggie Alderson

➢ Linard’s entry at the Encyclopedia of Fashion – by Alan
J. Flux; updated by Daryl F. Mallett

➢ Blitz Kid Stephen Linard’s 1980 Neon-Gothic collection anticipated “Heavenly Bodies” by 38 years – from Vogue, 2018

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2024 ➤ Pilger’s fearlessness is what journalism still needs today

John Pilger, Daily Mirror, Rupert, Murdoch, Robert Maxwell, Mirrorscope, Journalism, tributes
❚ ONE OF THE GREATEST post-war crusading journalists has died after a lifetime of championing frank journalism and regularly criticising the mainstream media. In 2002, John Pilger said that “many journalists now are no more than channellers and echoers of what Orwell called the official truth”.

Though aged only 28 when named in the British Press Awards as Journalist of the Year 1967, Pilger became the backbone of the Daily Mirror’s revolutionary investigative Mirrorscope sections – four-pagers twice a week – when the tabloid respected for its humanity was selling 5million copies a day (long before The Sun posed any kind of threat), the world’s highest English-language circulation.

Pilger was already a mentor for me in 1969 when the paper created its glossy mid-week Mirror Magazine and I joined in my first Fleet Street job, surrounded by the giants of the day.

Pilger spent 23 years with the Mirror, through what proved a golden age for British journalism. It was not to last. In a landmark New Statesman column in December 1991 he reflected on how popular journalism had been hijacked by both “the monster” Robert Maxwell, who lucked into buying the Mirror after a management cock-up and reduced its sales to an all-time low, and by Rupert Murdoch whose Sun had overtaken its rival’s sales by creating an agenda of sexism, racism and voyeurism. Pilger savaged the journalists in both camps for their cynicism.

His later career included more than 60 hard-hitting ITV documentaries which won Bafta and Emmy awards. The activist Noam Chomsky said of him: “John Pilger’s work has been a beacon of light in often dark times.” Playwright Harold Pinter described him as “fearless”. Pilger’s is a voice we still need to hear.

John Pilger, 9 October 1939 – 30 December 2023

➢ The Guardian’s robust obituary of the fervent critic of US and British foreign policy – “Why do many journalists beat the drums of war regardless of the lies of governments?” Pilger asked in 2010”

➢ The Times: Critical obituary of the “left-wing anti-American journalist” … “denounced as a dupe of the eastern bloc”

➢ Pilger’s own informative website

➢ Heroes Paperback – 1 Feb 2001 – John Pilger’s autobiography

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1992 ➤ Who’s the keenest fan of Marcel Proust?

David Hockney, A S Byatt, Lewis Wolpert, Marcel Proust, In Search of Lost Time,

Hockney, Wolpert and Byatt: leading the pack?

❚ HOW MANY OF US CAN CLAIM to have read the whole of Marcel Proust’s literary masterwork, originally titled for its English edition Remembrance of Things Past, in seven volumes, containing 1.2million words? Not many of us. What about reading it twice? As a journalist I interviewed painter David Hockney on his 46th birthday when he revealed that he had enthusiastically read the epic twice, drawing parallels between the act of looking around Proust’s world by reading his lengthy descriptions and the time it takes for our eyes to dart around a cubist painting. They are both about duration. And the great device Proust donated to literature was his episode of the madeleine, when a simple cake triggers a moment of involuntary memory.

In 1992, when a new English edition titled In Search of Lost Time was published, novelist A S Byatt admitted, without being boastful, that she too had read Proust twice. This happened at a party thrown by the highly sociable biologist Lewis Wolpert who raised the topic as a Proustian two-timer himself, though a viral buzz through this party could find no others. More impressive still, when our paths crossed a couple of years later, Antonia remarked: “Make that three readings now. But this time in French.”

David Hockney, A S Byatt, Lewis Wolpert, Marcel Proust, In Search of Lost Time, madeleine,

Proust’s episode of the madeleine: involuntary memory evoked in a French exhibition of 2015

➢ A S Byatt died last month and received this splendid
obituary in The Guardian

➢ Lewis Wolpert’s obituary in The Guardian, 2021
➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s:
1983, Hockney’s new vision of the world

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2023 ➤ Johnny Marr climaxes his solo career with stunning book and unique live concert

Live concerts, UK tour, CD, indie rock, Johnny Marr, Spirit Power, Marr’s Guitars, Aviva Studios,

Johnny Marr at 60: creating an innovative sound at Manchester’s new Aviva Studios

❚ WATCH OUT FOR two live performances of classics and fan favourites brought to life as A Night with the Johnny Marr Orchestra, a new, expanded sound as the one-time Smiths guitarist takes to the stage with a full classic orchestra on Dec 7 and 8. I shall be in Manchester (train strikes willing) to report back.

For two special performances this week at the Aviva Studios, the city’s brand-new exhibition and entertainment complex, Johnny is joined on stage by some of the best classical musicians from the North. Together, they’ll reinterpret his impressive solo catalogue currently selling as a limited double-CD titled Spirit Power which celebrates his songs, bangers, and electric shows from the past ten years, “having put myself under pressure to make singles”.

Live concerts, UK tour, CD, indie rock, Johnny Marr, Spirit Power, Marr’s Guitars, Aviva Studios,

Celebrating Marr’s solo career: an impassioned photo-book and a UK tour next year

All of which trails a UK tour next spring and helps promote his chunky 288-page hardback book, Marr’s Guitars, packed with spectacular colour photos and his own passionate reflections on how his collection of more than 130 guitars has created his innovative sound. As Johnny says: “There is a human story behind these guitars. Historically, guitars do have this association with certain sounds and songs.”

The composer Hans Zimmer – with whom Johnny collaborated on the Bond soundtrack for No Time to Die – pens an impressively flattering foreword in the book, stressing that “Each artist gets their guitar to tell their personal story.” He is not talking about the sound you associate with metal guitars and a cheesy orchestra, “usually tasteless”, but in Marr’s case his own very particular and sensuous aesthetic. “The guitar lets us reveal ourselves more profoundly than words ever could,” Zimmer concludes.

Live concerts, UK tour, CD, indie rock, Johnny Marr, Spirit Power, Marr’s Guitars, Aviva Studios, orchestra, Manchester,
➢ Final remaining tickets to Johnny’s Aviva Studios gigs this week

➢ Buy the Marr’s Guitars book, his double-CD, his earlier full-length albums and more merch here

➢ Pre-order tickets for Marr’s Spirit Power tour from 2 April 2024 via his Live pages

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1963 ➤ Where were The Beatles the day Kennedy was shot?

Beatles, UK tour, 1963, Globe theatre, Stockton-on-Tees, Beatlemania, Paul McCartney, John Lennon, CBS News, video, JFK, assassination, President Kennedy, Nov 22,

Beatles live onstage in Stockton, Nov 22, 1963: George Harrison at the microphone on the night Kennedy was shot. Note the amplifier perched on a chair!

60
YEARS
ON

❚ WHERE? LIVE, ONSTAGE IN STOCKTON-ON-TEES. Count the simple Vox amps behind the band and note how one is perched on a chair! This picture was taken on Friday Nov 22 1963 at the 2,400-seat Globe theatre when the Beatles played the art-deco venue on their first nationwide tour. The band’s half-hour set during twice-nightly performances at 6.15 and 8.30 was supported by seven other acts with tickets priced from 6 shillings to 10s 6d, when a workman’s weekly wage might be £7….

➢ Read on at Shapersofthe80s:
1963 ➤ With The Beatles the day Kennedy was shot

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