Category Archives: Swinging 80s

2024 ➤ Welcome to much unseen photography by Duran’s first lensman

Birmingham, books , photography, Rum Runner, Paul Edmond, Duran Duran, Maggie K de Monde, APS Books
❚ ANY FAN OF DURAN DURAN remembers the very first photographs of the band in 1980 as they finalised their line-up which was to win a recording contract by year’s end and secure their first chart hit with Planet Earth. The five musicians were young and handsome and while they emerged as lucky leaders of the New Romantic music and fashion movement based on Birmingham’s Rum Runner nightclub, so local teenager Paul Edmond learned the skills of photography by capturing their frilly shirts. These Pose Age outfits took inspiration from Jane Kahn and Patti Bell’s futurist boutique, but in those DIY days before stylists had been invented, it fell to Paul to inject a sense of cool nonchalance into his images of the budding pop stars as they too practised how best to look a camera in the eye.

➢ Order your set of Duran Duran En Scène,
three volumes of Paul Edmond’s photographs,
direct from APS Books

Four decades later, after selling 100 million records, winning umpteen music awards, and being welcomed into the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, Duran themselves revel in releasing new material and reworking the old, their latest album being Danse Macabre. How appropriate then that the photographic archive of Paul Edmond – which embraces a wider world of youth culture than only that of Duran – is being published this spring. A trio of books filling 200 A4 pages has been initiated by his sister Maggie K de Monde, herself an all-round song-writer and performer. Nick Rhodes makes a contribution. Advance orders for the £90 package are being invited by APS Books of Yorkshire, with delivery expected in June.

Tragically, Paul himself cannot share this poignant moment because he was killed in a road accident in 2015. He and I became great friends working on the monthly magazine New Sounds New Styles in 1981, for which he took an arresting cover picture of Jane Farrimond and the flamboyant Martin Degville, a pair of Brummie style leaders who both ended up in the band Sigue Sigue Sputnik.

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s: 1980, Out of the blue,
Duran’s first gig pictured at the Rum Runner

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s:
1981, Birth of Duran’s Planet Earth

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s: 1981,
New Sounds New Styles: Will it all be over by next week?

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s: 2023, Celebrating
Kahn and Bell’s role at the centre of Brummie fashion

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2024 ➤ London’s Evening Standard publishes my obituary of Linard the wild child of UK fashion

Stephen Linard, Blitz Kids, fashion, New Romantics, Swinging80s,

Photo by Kate Garner

❚ A LAVISHLY DESIGNED OBITUARY of Stephen Linard written by me appears in today’s Evening Standard online and stands as a well-deserved memoir for one of my best friends…
➢ The life of Stephen Linard – A flamboyant Canvey Island boy who went on to shape the Blitz Kids silhouette in the 1980s

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2024 ➤ Farewell to Linard, the craziest man I’ve known

Stephen Linard, Blitz Kids, fashion, New Romantics, Canvey Island,

Stephen Linard in 2018: A last pint at his local pub before moving away from Canvey Island. (Photo @ Shapersofthe80s)

INCREDIBLE!!!! Update – Shapersofthe80s has received 8,100 hits during the three days since Stephen’s death. Thank you to his fans

❚ HARD TO ACCEPT THAT STEPHEN LINARD has now died from the extensive throat cancer that had caused him so much pain recently. He was one of the craziest of eccentrics who frequently made me laugh out loud. We met at a party at Steve Strange’s flat in 1980 when he was among the sharpest half-dozen Blitz Kids who changed their looks daily and put the Blitz Club on the map. We hit it off immediately and I soon latched onto the star trio of Stephen, Kim Bowen and Lee Sheldrick who went everywhere together.

I photographed his degree show and over the years helped him through various projects in that era when St Martin’s School of Art failed to equip its graduates with any guidance for running their own businesses. Luckily, pop stars from Pet Shop Boys to U2 and even Bowie readily adopted his strong styles and in 1983 the American fashion press included him among the eight most influential London designers [see link below], noted for his strong eye for colour.

From 1983 to ’86 Stephen lived in Tokyo designing for Jun Co, the fashion giant, on a salary which, he liked to boast, exceeded the prime minister Margaret Thatcher’s. From 1989 until recently Stephen was a key player on the design team at Drake’s, the respected men’s haberdasher off Savile Row (pictured below). The main photo (above) marked a last pint at his local pub on Canvey Island where he lived in his late mother’s house until 2020 before joining the Old Romantic Folks who go on retiring to St Leonard’s-on-Sea.

Only six months ago, as if in anticipation of the worst, Stephen staged a striking exhibition of his early illustrations, titled Total Fashion Victim after the club-night he had hosted at Soho’s coolest hang-out, the Wag. I was lucky enough to write the outline catalogue with him.

drakes-london, Stephen Linard, British tailoring, haberdashery,fashion

Former Blitz Kid and St Martin’s fashion graduate Stephen Linard in 2011: a designer with Drake’s, the gentlemen’s haberdasher, seen here at a staff preview for the opening of its first shop just off Savile Row. (Photograph © Shapersofthe80s)

MORE ON STEPHEN INSIDE

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s: 2023, Total Fashion Victim – Linard’s exhibition of his early work

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s:
The Blitz Kids WATN? No 28, Stephen Linard

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s:
1980, Linard’s Alternative student show gives
Goths their archaic name

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s:
1982, Six British designers take London fashion
to the French

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s: Overseas influencers
declare eight hot fashion Brits for 1984

THE PROFESSIONAL TRIBUTES

➢ Stephen Linard, London designer, image maker and Blitz Kid, dead at 64 – Detailed analysis of his talents at Women’s Wear Daily, March 2024

➢ Goodbye, Stephen Linard: It was a privilege to know you – by novelist Maggie Alderson

➢ Linard’s entry at the Encyclopedia of Fashion – by Alan
J. Flux; updated by Daryl F. Mallett

➢ Blitz Kid Stephen Linard’s 1980 Neon-Gothic collection anticipated “Heavenly Bodies” by 38 years – from Vogue, 2018

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2023 ➤ One savvy fan rates Kid Creole’s London extravaganza

Kid Creole, Coconuts, August Darnell, Boisdale restaurant, London, concert, Andy Polaris,

Backstage after the London show: Animal Nightlife’s singer Andy Polaris meets August Darnell to thank him for a lifetime of inspiration

Not only a handshake and a hug for Andy Polaris from the showman that is August Darnell, but now a taster from his review of the evening in Canary Wharf…

August Darnell is the real deal and the soul survivor of the band Kid Creole and the Coconuts that has evolved over the years from its original cast in the early 80s but wisely maintained its winning formula… At a club night in London’s Canary Wharf his talented musicians provided the muscular sound, the perfect funky backbone which was always a key element of their success. Straight out the gate the Coconuts came to slay with well executed dance moves, while a physical aerobic workout combined with vocal prowess to result in a remarkable feat. I can only think of the Ikettes with Tina Turner who shared these onstage dynamics. My enthusiasm for this dazzling choreography – created by founder member Adriana Kaegi – is fired by the sheer inventiveness at the beating heart of the band… On stage tonight we heard Broadway Rhythm, Animal Crackers and Flip Flop and Fly but of course the loudest cheers were for the hits Stool Pigeon and Annie I’m Not Your Daddy. Both are mini musical masterpieces that buoyed up the audience with more snazzy footwork and infectious brass…

➢ Click to continue reading at Apolarisview

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2023 ➤ Kid Creole returns to Britain with that vintage Darnell bazzazz

❚ ONE OF THE GOD-LIKE SHAPERS of the new music of the Eighties was playing live in London this week and afterwards we met again for the first time since 1981. He is August Darnell, aka Kid Creole frontman of the Coconuts, and when I remarked on what a vital conduit he had provided between New York, London and Paris assisting the exchange of new indie bands, no-wave dance music and other strange flavours on Michael Zilkha’s ZE Records label, he was flattered to be remembered that way. Yes they were fertile times, he agreed, as post-punk pop, disco, funk, dub and Latin all collided with artsy pretension spiced with irony. He loved that rules were being broken.

In 1980 Darnell became a producer at ZE and his collaborations boosted the careers of James Chance, Cristina, Was (Not Was), Don Armando’s Second Avenue Rhumba Band and Material, while introducing the category of “Mutant Disco”. The edgy compilation album bearing that name distinctly helped to make ZE “the most fashionable label in the world” in the opinion of The Face magazine by 1982. Woodwork squeaks and out come the freaks!, according to Was (Not Was).

Click any pic to enlarge in slideshow:

Darnell had set out in 1974 writing lyrics with the funky Dr Buzzard’s Original Savannah Band in which vibraphone player Andy Hernandez was known as his “trusty sidekick” Coati Mundi. Hernandez served as Darnell’s on-stage comic foil, as well as his musical director and arranger. Their first hit single on RCA was Cherchez La Femme with Cory Daye the lead vocalist. The album went gold and the band was nominated for Best New Artist in the Grammy awards.

In 1980 he formed his own band as Kid Creole and the Coconuts, his style as lounge-lizard vocalist being defined by a Latinised Cab Calloway type in a zoot suit and broad-brimmed hat, alongside “Sugar-Coated” Coati Mundi in a line-up of instrumentalists and singing dancers. Sire released the Coconuts album, Fresh Fruit in Foreign Places, in June 1981, while the next album in May 1982 was boosted by its instant appeal in the UK under the title Tropical Gangsters. The LP hit number three, and three singles – I’m a Wonderful Thing Baby, Stool Pigeon and Annie I’m Not Your Daddy – made the Top Ten.

As a dynamic live act with unique visual appeal, the Coconuts toured the world, confirming Darnell as a respected composer, arranger and producer. They recorded 11 albums and scored more hit singles including Dear Addy, Endicott, The Sex of It, and My Male Curiosity.

And now here were many of those familiar strains being given brilliant new life on-stage at the Boisdale restaurant in Canary Wharf this week, thanks to a powerful seven-piece band and three slinky dancers. Of course August Darnell was showing his age – heavens, aren’t we all these days? Despite which, his generous set was driven by his own rich voice and every ounce of sheer bazzazz. There was no beating Don’t Take My Coconuts!

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s: 2012, Mutant Disco update

New York, Jim Fouratt, Kid Creole, Coconuts, August Darnell, 1981,

New York, May 1981: When I first met August Darnell, here with Jim Fouratt, promoter of the Spandau Ballet/Axiom gig and fashion show at the Underground club. (Photo © Shapersofthe80s)

Michel Esteban, Michael Zilkha, ZE Records,

Michael Zilkha and Michel Esteban: in 1978 founders of the record label combined their initials to make ZE and based themselves in both New York and Paris

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s:
1981, 21 Blitz Kids take Manhattan by storm with a fresh fashion show and the live new sound of London

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