Category Archives: Fashion

2015 ➤ Steve Strange’s anniversary: deciphering the pen portraits of the man of masks

Steve Strange, Stephen Harrington, Blitz Kids, New Romantics, nightclubbing, Swinging 80s, London, fashion, pop music, Visage, tributes, youth culture, obituaries

Steve Strange in 1981: here in Robin Hood guise (BBC)

FIRST PUBLISHED 13 FEBRUARY 2015

◼ ONE OF STEVE STRANGE’S TALENTS was persuading the press to believe in his latest wheeze, however fantastic. He had a way of convincing himself that a story was already written and a mission achieved before he had pressed the accelerator and set off. This irritated as many journalists as it amused and many were consequently very sceptical of his next big announcement – like saying he’d booked a big American star to do her first live promotional performance in Britain at his crowning glory, the Camden Palace, capacity 1,410. But in fact he had and she did, and in June 1983 the unknown Madonna was launched in the UK singing to backing tapes for half an hour.

The myths surrounding Steve were always the stuff of self-promotion. Dressing up was part of the same story-telling ritual. Today, he would say, I am Robin Hood, tomorrow Ruritanian Space Cadet, the next day Marionette with the mind of a toy. A compulsive man of masks presents a tricky subject for the scribblers obliged to capture that life once it is spent, so we must tiptoe through the obituaries like a minefield, and beware of tripping over Steve’s much-spun versions of history that were pure fantasy. Even national newspapers seemed to fall for many of the dreams he spouted, as well as the exceedingly vague memories committed to his 2002 book, Blitzed. As the mainstream obituary writers lead you through those New Romantic years, see if you can spot the porkies. . .

➢ The Times obituary:
As the head boy of the “new romantics”, Steve Strange was the flamboyant scene-maker of a colourful subculture that dominated early 1980s British pop music as a showily garish counter-reaction to the stylistic austerity of punk. If punks were the roundheads in pop’s civil war, the “new romantics” were the cavaliers, ushering in a restoration of glitz and glamour, with a delectably decadent flourish… / Continued online

➢ Adam Sweeting, Guardian:
In 1978, Strange and Rusty Egan (then drummer with the Rich Kids) began holding David Bowie nights on Tuesdays at Billy’s club in Soho, a squalid bunker situated beneath a brothel. “We played Bowie, Roxy Music and electro,” said Strange. “It was where our friends could be themselves.” Billy’s could hold only 250 people [not quite!] but swiftly developed an outsize reputation, numbering among its garishly clad clientele such stars-to-be as George O’Dowd (the future Boy George), Siobhan Fahey, later of Bananarama, and Marilyn. . . / Continued online

Billy’s club,Helen Robinson, nightlife, London ,Steve Strange, PX

Billy’s club 1978: Strange as Ruritanian Space Cadet alongside PX designer Helen Robinson. (Photograph by © Nicola Tyson)

➢ Daily Telegraph obituary:
Strange fronted sleek operations, such as Club For Heroes in Baker Street and the Camden Palace in north London, where Madonna performed her first British live concert. But Visage split amid acrimony over the division of royalty payments, and his nightspots fell out of vogue in the mid-1980s with the rise of rap, hip-hop and dance music. By this time Strange had a reputation for high-handedness. Years later, Boy George lampooned Strange as the preposterous club host character “Nobby Normal” in his biographical musical Taboo. Strange was not amused. “I don’t think I have that strong a Welsh accent,” he complained. . . / Continued online

➢ The Scotsman obituary:
Although his career as a pop star afforded him only one real hit as frontman of the band Visage, 1980’s austere synthesiser anthem Fade to Grey, Steve Strange’s distinctive image and party-loving persona saw him help invent London’s New Romantic scene. . . Visage’s time in the sun flared all too briefly; with Strange being courted to repeat the clubbing success of places like the Blitz in various US cities, he dived wholeheartedly into the life of the international rock star, with all the pitfalls that entailed. Put off by Strange’s drug use, spending sprees and debauched behaviour, Midge Ure left to concentrate on Ultravox and Visage’s 1984 third album Beat Boy was a critical and commercial failure. The band split the following year, the same year that Strange first took heroin. . . / Continued online

➢ Pierre Perrone in The Independent:
A flamboyant figure with a self-destructive streak . . . By the late 90s he was back in Wales and, by his own admission, acting “very bizarrely”. He spent six weeks in a psychiatric hospital, was arrested for shoplifting and given a suspended sentence. “I don’t know whether it was cry for help,” he told The Independent in 2000, blaming an over-reliance on Prozac, though he seemed comfortable with his avowed bisexuality. . . / Continued online

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2024 ➤ Original outlaws celebrate their blasts from the past

Exhibition, fashion, 1980s, influencers, Youthculture, zeitgeist, Franceska Luther King, Fashion and Textile Museum, Outlaws,

Outlaws: superb gallery of the exhibition – Photos at Facebook © Franceska

❚ HERE’S A REVIEW OF THE NEW OUTLAWS SHOW, written by Franceska Luther King at Facebook yesterday…

<< Fabulous night at the private view of Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of 80s London at the Fashion and Textile Museum on Thursday evening. Curated by the amazing Martin Green and James Lawler and NJ Stevenson with amazing mannequins by David Cabaret. It was a very special night, a gathering of all the fashion crowd from the mid 80s, celebrating club culture and true creativity. Such good times!!!

So great to be included with a piece of my collection for Joseph back in the day, silk sari shirts. Post Demob designs and after my backing with Tanya Sarne and Jane Whiteside, I ventured on with my own collections sold to Jones, Whistles , Brown’s etc then my own little retail outlet in Kensington Market. So great to see all the familiar faces and see beautiful blasts from the past.

40 years later! And so sad that we have already lost so many… Great to see Joan Burey, Corinne Drewery, Greg Davis, John Richmond, Sue Tilley, Eve Ferret, Mark Moore, DarlaJane Gilroy, Simon Reeves, Daniel Conway, Derek Ridgers, David Johnson, Andrew Logan, Hamish Bowles, Sophie Parkin, Dean Bright, Tolan Hüseyin-Halleck, Paul Gorman, Robert Leach, Vivienne Austin, Richard Kaby.

Amazing clothes by Richard Torry, Rachel Auburn, BodyMap, Pam Hogg, Elmaz Huseyin, Sue Came, English Eccentrics, John Galliano, Katharine Hamnett, Kahn & Bell, Whittiker Malem, Dean Bright, Judy Blame, John Moore, Christopher Nemeth, Mark & Syrie, Leigh Bowery, John Crancher, Franceska King and many more!  >>

➢ Click through to Facebook to see all 18 images
in Franceska’s Outlaws post

Exhibition, fashion, 1980s, influencers, Youthculture, zeitgeist, Franceska Luther King, Fashion and Textile Museum, Outlaws,

Outlaws: true creativity and amazing mannequins – Photo © Franceska


➢ Visit Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of 80s London
at the Fashion and Textile Museum

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2024 ➤ Welcome to much unseen photography by Duran’s first lensman

Birmingham, books , photography, Rum Runner, Paul Edmond, Duran Duran, Maggie K de Monde, APS Books
❚ ANY FAN OF DURAN DURAN remembers the very first photographs of the band in 1980 as they finalised their line-up which was to win a recording contract by year’s end and secure their first chart hit with Planet Earth. The five musicians were young and handsome and while they emerged as lucky leaders of the New Romantic music and fashion movement based on Birmingham’s Rum Runner nightclub, so local teenager Paul Edmond learned the skills of photography by capturing their frilly shirts. These Pose Age outfits took inspiration from Jane Kahn and Patti Bell’s futurist boutique, but in those DIY days before stylists had been invented, it fell to Paul to inject a sense of cool nonchalance into his images of the budding pop stars as they too practised how best to look a camera in the eye.

➢ Order your set of Duran Duran En Scène,
three volumes of Paul Edmond’s photographs,
direct from APS Books

Four decades later, after selling 100 million records, winning umpteen music awards, and being welcomed into the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, Duran themselves revel in releasing new material and reworking the old, their latest album being Danse Macabre. How appropriate then that the photographic archive of Paul Edmond – which embraces a wider world of youth culture than only that of Duran – is being published this spring. A trio of books filling 200 A4 pages has been initiated by his sister Maggie K de Monde, herself an all-round song-writer and performer. Nick Rhodes makes a contribution. Advance orders for the £90 package are being invited by APS Books of Yorkshire, with delivery expected in June.

Tragically, Paul himself cannot share this poignant moment because he was killed in a road accident in 2015. He and I became great friends working on the monthly magazine New Sounds New Styles in 1981, for which he took an arresting cover picture of Jane Farrimond and the flamboyant Martin Degville, a pair of Brummie style leaders who both ended up in the band Sigue Sigue Sputnik.

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s: 1980, Out of the blue,
Duran’s first gig pictured at the Rum Runner

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s:
1981, Birth of Duran’s Planet Earth

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s: 1981,
New Sounds New Styles: Will it all be over by next week?

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s: 2023, Celebrating
Kahn and Bell’s role at the centre of Brummie fashion

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2023 ➤ Celebrating Kahn and Bell’s role at the centre of Brummie fashion

Birmingham, fashion, nightlife, exhibition, Swinging 80s, Kahn&Bell, Paul Edmond,

Kahn & Bell in their heyday, photographed by Paul Edmond

❚ IT’S GOOD TO SEE how trendsetters in Birmingham have been reminding the world of the city’s reputation for creativity. Only last December people with long memories succeeded at finally getting a blue plaque erected on the site of the legendary nightspot, the Rum Runner, birthplace of the international supergroup Duran Duran during the Swinging 80s, and a vital platform for Annie Lennox, Fine Young Cannibals, Dexys, Fashion and Sigue Sigue Sputnik.

No less famous than the Rum Runner were Jane Kahn and Patti Bell, the fashion duo with their boutique at 72 Hurst Street from 1976 to 1986, which became an epicentre for the alternative music and fashion scene. Their penchant for fantasy and theatricality found them designing hand-made clothing for Duran Duran, the dance group Shock and even Eurovision winners Bucks Fizz. One of their models who worked in the shop as a teenager was the local drag legend Twiggy.

K&B have been described as Birmingham’s equivalent to Vivienne Westwood and the New Romantic magazine New Sounds New Styles observed in 1981: “When similarities to London designers were seen in their collections it was considered that Birmingham had copied London.” This was by no means the case. Duran’s photographer Paul Edmond preferred to describe Patti and Jane as “the queen and princess of the Birmingham New Romantic scene… Patti was the Vivienne Westwood, with Jane as Zandra Rhodes. Jane was perhaps slightly more refined in her fashion design and Patti was the more outrageous one, the most outgoing”.

Even so, in 2006, Duran’s Nick Rhodes created the compilation album Only After Dark to celebrate the music played at the Rum Runner, and lamented with hindsight: “Allegedly this was the UK’s second city, but you couldn’t help but wonder at the gaping disparity with the capital. If this was the second city, what might life be like in the thirteenth?”

Click any pic to enlarge as a slideshow:

In tribute to the iconic designers, an exhibition titled “It’s Not Unusual: a photographic homage to Kahn & Bell” has being curated by the National Trust with input from local photographer Gary Lindsay-Moore, at a quaint terrace of restored shops known as the Back to Backs Museum in Hurst Street. It opens on 9 June though visiting hours are very confusing on the B2B’s complex website so better ring for specific information, as booking seems necessary.

Today no less than in the Eighties, Brum remains Britain’s “second city”, as a focus for a population of more 4 million people in the wider West Midlands, the largest metropolitan county outside the capital. Its fashionable Digbeth scene has been compared to London’s Shoreditch. Likewise Brindleyplace, the Hurst Street village and Broad Street, where a Brummie version of Hollywood’s Walk of Fame once saw large brass stars set into the pavements on both sides honouring local showbiz heroes and institutions. Sadly, this year I counted only a handful remaining. The whole of Broad Street was resurfaced in the recent extension of the metro tram route westwards and most of the brass plates in the Walk of Stars were ripped out.

If we feel rightly sentimental about our past so that a gilded statue of those industrial pioneers Boulton, Murdoch and Watt stands prominently on Broad Street only yards away from the Black Sabbath Bridge – recently renamed after the local rock band – why are David Bintley, Jeff Lynne, the Birmingham Royal Ballet and the Aston Villa Team of ’82 among the only star names to remain embedded in the pavements? To have lost the Walk of Stars as mementoes of the city’s history is a crying shame.

Birmingham, fashion, nightlife, exhibition, Swinging 80s, Walk of Stars, Aston Villa Team of 82,

One of the few surviving brass stars still visible in Broad Street’s Walk of Stars, this one a tribute to Aston Villa FC

➢ It’s Not Unusual exhibition runs 9 June-17 Dec, at B2B Museum at 61 Hurst Street, Birmingham, B5 4TE

Birmingham, fashion, nightlife, exhibition, Swinging 80s, Rum Runner,

The blue plaque finally awarded to the site of the Rum Runner nightclub in Birmingham

Updated 23 July 2023… NEW SOUNDS, NEW STYLES is a live panel discussion just announced for Friday 25 August at 6.30pm in the Birmingham Back to Backs at £5 per ticket. Linking with the museum’s exhibition on Kahn and Bell, this event will explore the culture of the punk and New Romantic scenes in Birmingham in the late 1970s and 80s. The discussion will be chaired by Jez Collins of Birmingham Music Archive and panel guests will include Carl Phillips, Dylan Gibbons and Carol Maye.

➢ Buy NSNS tickets from Birmingham Back to Backs

Birmingham, fashion, nightlife, exhibition, Swinging 80s, Kahn&Bell, Back-to-Backs Museum, National Trust,

Hurst Street’s terrace of vintage shops now home to the National Trust’s Back to Backs Museum in Birmingham

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2023 ➤ Fond farewells to the glorious Queen of the Telegraph fashion pages

Hilary Alexander, tributes, Daily Telegraph, fashion,

Farewell to Hilary Alexander on her retirement in 2011: here’s the spoof front page every good hack deserves to cap their career. Read my own account linked below

“The dizzy industry doyenne” – Obituary at Vogue
https://www.vogue.co.uk/arts-and-lifestyle/article/hilary-alexander-obituary

Fashion editors, tributes, obituary, Hilary Alexander, Suzy Menkes, Anna Wintour

The British fashion triumvirate in their heyday: Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune, Hilary Alexander of the Daily Telegraph and Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of US Vogue

❚ ONE OF BRITISH JOURNALISM’S greatest characters has died and you won’t hear a word spoken against her – apart from on the hilarious spoof tribute page produced for Hilary Alexander’s leaving party in 2011 after donkeys years as fashion director of the Daily Telegraph, when it enjoyed the highest daily sales among UK quality newspapers. During the 1980s-90s I worked regularly alongside Hilary and also dared go out on the town with her to witness her beaming smile and unique dress sense turn heads in all directions. As British fashion grew in credibility on the world stage, Hilary became one of a triumvirate of British fashion editors the international circuit took very seriously, the others being Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune and Anna Wintour of US Vogue, who have been awarded two OBEs and a DBE by the Queen. Hilary was twice named British Fashion Journalist of the Year. Two enthusiastic obituaries remark that she pursued work like “a Stakhanovite” implying exceptional efficiency.

A memorial service for Hilary’s admirers and colleagues is being held at midday on Monday 12 June at St Bride’s in Fleet Street.

Early yesterday, Hilary’s 77th birthday, she died from a heart attack while in hospital. Our mutual colleague Penelope McDonald recalls the laughs they had enjoyed over the years – especially at the annual Fenwick Christmas shopping evenings to which Hils attracted leading designers. She devoted much time to inspiring and mentoring young fashionistas. In 2002, the artist Georg Meyer-Wiel remembers his graduation show in menswear at the RCA because he met big names such as Mary Quant and Issey Miyake in the company of Hils at the gala.

When I was editing the student edition of the Telegraph in 1988 Hils was keen to shoot a winter fashion feature with students in the coldest place in the UK. Amazingly, according to the Met Office, this proved not to be Scotland but the Tyneside estuary which receives freezing oceanic winds from the east. Consequently there we were in December fitting out some model students at Newcastle’s Uni and Poly with warm winter wear for our pages. In about 2002 my colourful Blitz Kid friend Judith Frankland recalls meeting Hils in Paris at a party for John Malkovich. She says: “I was dressed up as you can well imagine and she came straight over to me and said ‘I have to know who you are’ and smiled and told me to contact her if I was in London. Of course I didn’t have to ask who she was! It’s a good job she hadn’t seen me mere minutes later as my platform departed from the rest of my shoe, grrr!”

Fashion editors, tributes, obituary, OBE, Hilary Alexander, photos,

The umpteen faces of fashion queen Hilary Alexander: click to enlarge this Google set

Paul Hill, foreign desk manager at the Daily Telegraph, also recalls: “She used to organise the Christmas shows in Canada Square, taking over the canteen for the day and putting catwalks in and often filming them for DVD circulation to staff. I was in one (as one of five Elvis impersonators singing appallingly badly All Shook Up) and Hils was everywhere with what started as a full bottle of scotch, but by the end of the show was almost empty and she was a very happy and relaxed director! She would inveigle all sorts of seriously-minded staffers into these annual events, famously Lord Bill Deedes, to dress up – make-up and all – as Mick Jagger to mime along to Brown Sugar.”

In today’s Vogue obituary Anna Wintour says: “Hilary was irrepressible in everything she did. She lived life to the fullest and her reporting on fashion was just as committed. I threw a party for her in Paris when she retired – except she never retired! Hilary could never quite leave an industry that she loved so much.”

Fashion editors, tributes, obituary, OBE, Hilary Alexander, photos,

The fashion front row L-R: Jonathan Newhouse, Anna Wintour, Bill Nighy, Hilary Alexander, writer Lisa Armstrong and Laura Craig at the Mulberry AW 2012 show during London Fashion Week. (Photo © Dave M Benett). Click to enlarge.

In the Telegraph obituary Lisa Armstrong writes: “To sit next to Hilary at the shows was to be treated to an experience that was a unique blend of massage and wrestling match. Bobbing to the music – whatever it was – she was always the first to bounce out of her seat as the models were still filing off the catwalks, the ears of Uncle Bulgaria’s hat flopping away as she stormed the catwalk to get backstage before everyone else. She would do anything to get a story.”

Our set of photos here from a Google search for Hils sums up her eternal exuberance (“I will not stop flying. I will not stop smoking.”). Her home life in Dulwich was surprisingly private. Born in New Zealand, Hils was educated in Hong Kong and, having ended an unfortunate early marriage, she leaves no partner. Her funeral could be a starry event, though my own 2011 tribute in the link below is probably unbeatable!

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s:
2011, The incomparable Hilary Alexander makes her own front-page news as she leaves the Telegraph

Fashion editors, tributes, obituary, Vivienne Westwood, Hilary Alexander,

Hilary’s last profile photo posted at Twitter 2022… Hils celebrates her retirement with Andreas Kronthaler and Vivienne Westwood in 2011

➢ “More stamina than teenagers. To sit next to her at the shows was truly an experience” – Daily Telegraph obituary

➢ “A discerning eye for detail and relentless pursuit of a story made her name” – The Times obituary… She was on first-name terms with many designers but never forgot the readers for whom she was writing. “It’s hard for the average person to decide what to wear,” she said. “Our role is to take the threads that come through from the catwalk shows and say ‘This is the way to wear things’.” She saw fashion as more than mere style and was instrumental in making it newsworthy. “It’s not frivolous – any industry that employs half a million people and generates billions a year is a serious news subject.

Fashion editors, tributes, obituary, OBE, HM Elizabeth II, Hilary Alexander,

Fashion royalty: Hilary Alexander was made an Officer of the Order of the British Empire by the Queen in 2013… Hils sports a black silk dress with a jazzy poppy print to coordinate with the OBE ribbon

THE BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL’S
VIDEO TRIBUTE TO OUR HILS

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