Category Archives: archive

➤ Six magazines that changed the course of postwar British journalism

journalism, Picture Post, influencers, magazines pre-war

Picture Post covers from 1938 onwards

[This post was among the first to be published at
Shapersofthe80s in March 2009]

PICTURE POST 1938-57

The pioneer of photo-reportage. At the height of its powers during the Second World War this was the most widely read periodical in the country, selling 1,950,000 copies a week. Its inspirational editor from 1940 Tom Hopkinson recruited the photographers Bill Brandt, Bert Hardy, Kurt Hutton, Felix Man, Francis Reiss, Thurston Hopkins, John Chillingworth, Grace Robertson, Leonard McCombe. Staff writers included MacDonald Hastings, Lorna Hay, Sydney Jacobson, J. B. Priestley, Lionel Birch, James Cameron, Fyfe Robertson, Anne Scott-James, Robert Kee and Bert Lloyd; freelance contributors included George Bernard Shaw, Dorothy Parker and William Saroyan.

SUNDAY TIMES MAGAZINE 1962-today

The first colour supplement to be published as a weekly addition to a UK newspaper. The first editor was Mark Boxer. From the outset, “photographer first” was the benchmark and required serious investment in photo-reportage from the world’s trouble spots. Michael Rand, its art director for 30 years from 1962, said the credo was “grit plus glamour – fashion juxtaposed with war photography and pop art”. He went on to champion the work of such photographers as Terry O’Neill, Brian Duffy, Richard Avedon, Eugene Richards, Diane Arbus, Mary Ellen Mark. The magazine featured images from the Vietnam war by the photographer Don McCullin, a photo-essay on the Vatican by Eve Arnold, many portraits and photo-essays by Lord Snowdon, and Bert Stern’s final photoshoot with Marilyn Monroe, among many other photographic collections.

NEW SOCIETY 1962-1988

A weekly magazine of social inquiry and cultural comment, it drew on the disciplines of sociology, anthropology, psychology, human geography, social history and social policy, and it published wide-ranging social reportage. The cultural commentator Robert Hewison wrote that New Society became “a forum for the new intelligentsia” created by the expansion of higher education in Britain from the early 1960s. The editor Paul Barker (1968–86) was described by the labour historian Eric Hobsbawm as the “most original of editors”.

NOVA 1965-75

Launched under the slogan A new kind of magazine for the new kind of woman, Nova created its own unique niche in the British consumer magazine market under gifted editor Dennis Hackett, together with visionary art director Harri Peccinotti. They swiftly established their magazine as an influential must-read for the movers and shakers of Swinging London, among men as well as the original target audience of women becoming devotees of its heady mixture of social issues and cutting-edge fashion and modern lifestyle features. Nova’s agenda of journalistically taboo subjects included contraception, abortion, cancer, race, homosexuality, divorce and royal affairs, invariably boosted by stylish and provocative cover images, making it a rarity among magazines. Ultimately Nova had more male readers than female.
[Nova incidentally is where my own career began – DJ, creator of Shapersofthe80s]

RADIO TIMES 1968-88

Programme listings magazine transformed with provocative feature articles under editor Geoffrey Cannon and art director David Driver to create Britain’s biggest weekly magazine sale which rocketed as TV itself became the mass medium, from 8 million to 11.2 million for the Christmas edition of 1988.

THE FACE 1980-2004

In 1980, Nick Logan, a respected ex-editor of NME, staked his house on launching a new magazine that was to make style the focus of youth culture, as much as music. The Face was quickly dubbed Britain’s “style bible”. Even with a top monthly sale of only 120,000, it had an impact not only on the pop press, but the mainstream media too which spawned style pages in newspapers and magazines and “yoof” TV shows across the enlarged landscape of broadcasting. His influential art director Neville Brody single-handedly revolutionised the way magazines were conceived while contributing many new fonts to the canon.

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2024 ➤ Welcome to much unseen photography by Duran’s first lensman

Birmingham, books , photography, Rum Runner, Paul Edmond, Duran Duran, Maggie K de Monde, APS Books
❚ ANY FAN OF DURAN DURAN remembers the very first photographs of the band in 1980 as they finalised their line-up which was to win a recording contract by year’s end and secure their first chart hit with Planet Earth. The five musicians were young and handsome and while they emerged as lucky leaders of the New Romantic music and fashion movement based on Birmingham’s Rum Runner nightclub, so local teenager Paul Edmond learned the skills of photography by capturing their frilly shirts. These Pose Age outfits took inspiration from Jane Kahn and Patti Bell’s futurist boutique, but in those DIY days before stylists had been invented, it fell to Paul to inject a sense of cool nonchalance into his images of the budding pop stars as they too practised how best to look a camera in the eye.

➢ Order your set of Duran Duran En Scène,
three volumes of Paul Edmond’s photographs,
direct from APS Books

Four decades later, after selling 100 million records, winning umpteen music awards, and being welcomed into the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, Duran themselves revel in releasing new material and reworking the old, their latest album being Danse Macabre. How appropriate then that the photographic archive of Paul Edmond – which embraces a wider world of youth culture than only that of Duran – is being published this spring. A trio of books filling 200 A4 pages has been initiated by his sister Maggie K de Monde, herself an all-round song-writer and performer. Nick Rhodes makes a contribution. Advance orders for the £90 package are being invited by APS Books of Yorkshire, with delivery expected in June.

Tragically, Paul himself cannot share this poignant moment because he was killed in a road accident in 2015. He and I became great friends working on the monthly magazine New Sounds New Styles in 1981, for which he took an arresting cover picture of Jane Farrimond and the flamboyant Martin Degville, a pair of Brummie style leaders who both ended up in the band Sigue Sigue Sputnik.

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s: 1980, Out of the blue,
Duran’s first gig pictured at the Rum Runner

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s:
1981, Birth of Duran’s Planet Earth

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s: 1981,
New Sounds New Styles: Will it all be over by next week?

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s: 2023, Celebrating
Kahn and Bell’s role at the centre of Brummie fashion

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2023 ➤ 80,000 items of Bowie baggage find final resting place in the Olympic Park

Bowie, David Bowie Centre for the Study of Performing Arts, V&A East Storehouse, , archive, David Bowie

Into the archive: 1978 self-portrait sketched and signed by Bowie (detail)


❚ AT THE DAVID BOWIE CENTRE for the Study of Performing Arts fans will soon be able to get up-close to Bowie’s creative genius like never before. From 2025 the Victoria & Albert Museum’s East Storehouse in London’s Olympic Park will house more than 80,000 items amassed during the six decades of the performer’s pioneering career. His archive will be made available to the public, from fans to school children and researchers, thanks to the David Bowie Estate and a donation of £10m from the Blavatnik Family Foundation and Warner Music Group.

The archive features handwritten lyrics, letters, sheet music, original costumes, fashion, photography, film, music videos, set designs, Bowie’s own instruments, album artwork and awards. It also includes more intimate writings, thought processes and unrealised projects, the majority of which have never been seen in public before.

V&A East Storehouse will be a new type of museum experience taking visitors behind the scenes of the stored collections. The new Centre will also support the ongoing conservation, research and study of the archive.

Bowie, David Bowie Centre for the Study of Performing Arts, V&A East Storehouse, archive,

Into the archive: notes for Bowie lyrics created by the Burroughs “cut-up” technique

Highlights include stage costumes such as Bowie’s breakthrough Ziggy Stardust ensembles designed by Freddie Burretti (1972), Kansai Yamamoto’s flamboyant creations for the Aladdin Sane tour (1973) and the Union Jack coat designed by Bowie and Alexander McQueen for the Earthling album cover (1997). The archive also includes handwritten lyrics for songs including Fame (1975), “Heroes” (1977) and Ashes to Ashes (1980), as well as examples of the “cut-up” method of generating lyrics introduced to Bowie by the writer William Burroughs. Additionally, the archive holds a series of intimate notebooks from every era of Bowie’s life up to his death in 2016.

Tilda Swinton, one of David Bowie’s friends and collaborators, said: “In 2013, the V&A’s David Bowie Is… exhibition gave us unquestionable evidence that Bowie is a spectacular example of an artist who not only made unique and phenomenal work, but who has an influence and inspiration far beyond that work itself. Ten years later, the regenerative nature of his spirit grows ever further in popular resonance down through younger generations.”

Bowie, David Bowie Centre for the Study of Performing Arts, V&A East Storehouse, costumes, archive,

Into the archive: stage costumes from every decade of Bowie’s career

➢ Read further detail at the official David Bowie website

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1984 ➤ How SAW pumped up the volume during the Swinging Eighties

Channel5, Mike Stock, Pete Waterman , Matt Aitken, TV, documentary

Matt Aitken, Pete Waterman and Mike Stock in their heyday. (Photo: PA)

❚ DO CATCH THE SIZZLING NEW TV DOCUMENTARY about Stock Aitken Waterman, the three musical geniuses who only had to press all the right buttons for an unknown singer, and inject a dance beat into their music to create one Top 10 hit after another. From 1984 the writing/producing team of Mike Stock, Matt Aitken and Pete Waterman were to publish over 100 hit singles, producing and launching the pop careers of Hazell Dean, Dead or Alive, Bananarama, Sinitta, Princess, Mel & Kim, Rick Astley, Kylie Minogue and Jason Donovan. International stars such as Diana Ross and Michael Jackson, Chic and Depeche Mode became external clients.

The detail of how SAW evolved their production line with Phil Harding at PWL Studios makes for awesome viewing in two programmes of 90 minutes each, the second going out on Channel 5 next Saturday. Pete Waterman compared their output to Motown in the 1960s: “Every five days we had to churn out a hit.”

➢ Stock Aitken Waterman: Legends of Pop – Catch up with the first episode on the C5 website now

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➤ New from Prince: Holly Rock single and video, plus album of demos

Prince, Holly Rock, Originals, Electric Light Studios, releases, video, vinyl

Many faces of Prince… from his new animated video for Holly Rock

THE PRINCE ESTATE HAS RELEASED HOLLY ROCK, an electrifying song from 1985 produced for Sheila E but here rendered by Prince himself in a 3m47s edit and promoted this week with a spicey new animated video created by London-based Electric Light Studios. Holly Rock was recorded for inclusion on the original soundtrack for the 1985 movie Krush Groove.

The new single is the second taken from the album Originals, published last month and featuring 14 previously unreleased demo versions of Prince’s songs from 1981-85 written for his side projects, protégées and other artists. The Guardian said of the album: “(Originals) shows the breadth and brilliance of his compositional talents.”

Prince, Originals, releases, CD, album, vinyl

Prince’s Originals on CD and vinyl

His original versions of tracks include The Glamorous Life, Sex Shooter, Manic Monday, The Time’s Jungle Love and Love…Thy Will Be Done, as well as deep cuts like Vanity 6’s Make-Up and Jill Jones’s Baby, You’re A Trip. The album also features Prince’s original 1984 version of Nothing Compares 2 U, released last year as a standalone single.

Originals is available now from Warner Records via download and streaming partners and physically on CD, 180 gram 2LP, and limited edition Deluxe CD+2LP Purple Vinyl set.

➢ Click to hear the full album of Prince’s Originals

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