2010 ➤ Lady Gaga spices up i-D’s 30th birthday

❚ A LIGHTNING-FAST PHOTOSHOOT with Lady Gaga (above) was previewed before Christmas at Showstudio, the showcase website directed since 2000 by Nick Knight. Today Knight ranks among the world’s most original fashion photographers, but his association with i-D, launched as a street-style magazine in 1980, goes back to its earliest days. On i-D’s fifth birthday he photographed 100 “People of the 80s” (➢➢ link below) who had all appeared in the magazine’s formative issues.

During December 2009, as part of his Fashion Revolution exhibition at London’s Somerset House, Knight photographed a further 100 of London’s current creative leaders — including models, actors, musicians, artists and Lady Gaga — in the space of 20 days.

Nick Knight, People of the 80s, i-D fifth anniversary,

The snapper snapped: Nick Knight caught framing up yours truly during the i-D shoot, June 6, 1985. Photographed © by Shapersofthe80s

Knight says: “We started saying that we were going to do five portraits a day, so we did five one the first day and we thought it felt too easy. So we pushed it to 10, it felt reasonable, but then we sort of let things happen and we were looking at 20 a day!”

The 100 portraits are slated for inclusion in i-D’s 30th anniversary issue later this year, with video portraits captured from each of the sitters viewable on Showstudio in the weeks before publication.

➢➢ For more pix and the full monty on i-D’s metamorphosis from stapled fanzine to international fashion glossy, read on here…

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1978 ➤ To the edge and back with the lovely Julia

❚ PRINCESS JULIA IS A NATIONAL TREASURE. After three decades, she remains one of the UK’s coolest dance deejays, music editor at i-D and co-runs The P.i.X fanzine. She is as beautiful and immaculately attired as she was in the Swinging 80s. In those days Julia Fodor turned heads as the star sales assistant in PX, Helen Robinson’s inspirational New Romantic clothes shop in Covent Garden.

Nouvelle vague, Feb 1980: Julia outside PX, designer Helen Robinson’s home of New Romantic fashion. Photographed © by Martin Brading

Stunningly coiffed in a beehive hairdo, she could have stepped out of a French nouvelle vague movie – until she opened her mouth. “’Ello dahhlin’,” she greeted you, in broad Eliza Doolittle Cockney.

Once Steve Strange had put Julia in the cloakroom at the Blitz in 1979, her unique style ensured her a place at the centre of all the press coverage the club provoked, as well as in the Visage video for Fade to Grey. As one of the few true Blitz Kids, Julia never ventured into public without her Look.

This month, Julia began a photo-blog called The World of Princess Julia to record her nightlife activities in London and abroad – for her deejay residency at Queen in Paris, she has enjoyed being delivered to work by cross-Channel helicopter. Her first blog post introduces us to her life of what some might call notoriety. Here’s a taste, in Julia’s own words…

A lot of tinsel, that’s London, we love
our veneer, we love our sleaze

❚ I’M EIGHTEEN, ’78, [Covent Garden is] still boarded up ready for gentrification, coming down soon though. I work in a shop – PX. There’s a rehearsal space downstairs, band music bleeds up, Chrissie’s down there with her Pretenders, she tells me all about it. One day Michael Jackson came by, another time some local kids locked us in for a laugh, it was Cameron McVey and his mates.

I had a “look” then, one of many. I hobbled around in tight, tight skirts and high, high heels from Seditionaries. I took speed and learnt to smoke. I had a good beehive. What’s his name, Paul [Smith] from up north moved into Floral Street, Paul Howie and Lynne Franks had jumpers in Long Acre. There was nothing else round there then shop wise.

We had Bowie on, we played Kraftwerk, we kept a lookout for new music, new makeup, the future, futuristic. Dance moves, soul static robot. Berlin, film-noir. London ’79, cross-dressing melting vista of possibilities. No money, poverty breeds creativity, that’s what they say. Nevertheless perhaps it’s true, especially in London where people seem to gravitate towards seeking out an identity more vital than the one they’ve left behind. I did the same, left north London and headed uptown, central, on the Piccadilly line. London’s built on ley-lines, heard someone say that somewhere, I think it’s true because there’s certain energy here in London…

PX moves into Endell Street in Feb 1980: New Romantic satin gowns, Fauntleroy collars – and Julia. Photographed © by Martin Brading

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2010 ➤ ‘Missing Link’ Kids roar back to life

Rich Kids, rich memories: Gary Kemp joins Glen Matlock, left, with Midge Ure and Steve New to the right. Rusty Egan on drums is masked by the bright lights. Ropy mobile picture © by Shapersofthe80s

Rich Kids, rich memories: Gary Kemp joins Glen Matlock, left, with Midge Ure and Steve New to the right. Rusty Egan on drums is masked by the bright lights. Ropy mobile pic © by Shapersofthe80s

❚ RICH KIDS ARE USUALLY WRITTEN OFF as “a short-lived, much-hyped rock band from London”, founded in 1977 by songwriter and bassist Glen Matlock, after he quit The Sex Pistols more enamoured with 60s sounds than 70s. Indeed the Kids were a one-hit wonder with only one eponymous single ever making the lower reaches of the charts, for five weeks in 1978. Yet with hindsight, they are today dubbed by the cognoscenti such as Spandau Ballet songwriter Gary Kemp and his band’s manager Steve Dagger as the “Missing Link” between punk and the New Romantics movement – an admission that was absolutely verboten in Spandau’s early days.

All of which made a one-off reunion gig at the Islington Academy last night, Jan 7, 2010, a curious footnote to history. For in the audience were some of the coolest clubbers from the 1970s scene, as enthusiastic as schoolboys, snapping away on their phonecams. Everybody, of course, was now hitting paunchy middle age, both onstage and off, and it took several numbers before the band got into its power-pop stride.

The occasion was poignant. Matlock and his mates were staging a charity benefit for fellow Kids guitarist Steve New who is fighting ill health. As in the old days, Midge Ure turned out on lead vocals with Rusty Egan on drums. Then for Ghosts of Princes in Towers, Spandau’s Kemp received a warm welcome by joining his iconic heroes wearing Romantic plaid trews and jamming on guitar. The other occasional Kids member, ex-Clash guitarist Mick Jones, supported last night’s bill in his noisy incarnation as Carbon/Silicon with fellow punk Tony James.

Rich Kids 1978

Tell-tale signs: Rich Kids began pushing pop in new directions in 1978, first with their name and their lyrics, reinforced with colourful 60s-style clothes and moptop haircuts – just look at Rusty’s barnet

So what was the missing link during the post-punk vacuum? The tell-tale signs are all over the early photos of Rich Kids and especially in their very Mod-flavoured 1978 debut on Top of the Pops that epitomised power pop, viewable in this video. The ex-Pistol Matlock favoured melody, the glam popster Ure favoured electronics while both revered the Small Faces as gods from the 1960s. In Mojo magazine last month, Ure said: “What Glen did back then by asking me to come and join the band was incredibly brave. He could have chosen any cool, punky young guitarist-singer in London – I mean, there were thousands of them. Instead he chose this teenybop, bubble-gum type guy, therefore making things incredibly difficult for himself… I suppose the Rich Kids were the Humble Pie of our day: not The Herd and Small Faces, but the Pistols and Slik – you couldn’t get anything more opposite.”

Marching Men: Rich Kids’ single, 1978

At last night’s gig, fashionista Graham K Smith, formerly of New Sounds New Styles, drew a stark contrast between the look flouted by the Kids and the black-or-black prescribed by the punk fashion police. “The Rich Kids were fops. They were absolutely going against the dour sartorial styles of the time. Their hair was long, shaggy, grown-out pudding bowls. Matlock was in velvet jackets and baggy, piratical shirts (at least two years before Vivienne’s seminal pirate collection). Midge was in pink and red towelling nursery garb, and the immaculate Steve New was pushing the boundaries in pink leopardskin-print drainpipes, with his updated take on 1974’s mohair jumper vibe. In retrospect, the Kids are the link between early 70s glam, and the full-on fop explosion of the early 80s.”

It’s the fortunes of the Kids’ shifting yet highly talented personnel and their projects which make them significant. As writer Simon Mills “from Smash Hits” (launched 1978) said last night: “Can you name all the bands Midge Ure has been in?” From Slik in 1974 onwards, this Scottish weathervane has graced more than half a dozen, see here. As a DJ Egan of course pioneered the electrosynth dance sounds that were to transform UK clubbing, splitting with the guitar-led Rich Kids to form the synth-led group Visage in 1978 with Ure and Steve Strange, who quickly established himself as the popinjay of New Romance. It was Ure’s vocals that eventually established one of the seminal sounds of the 80s with the band Ultravox, who also set a benchmark for pop videos by shooting on celluloid to achieve a cinematic effect, notably with Vienna in 1981.

Last night, after breaking a few sticks on his drumkit, Egan had the last word: “I’ll be glad to get back to deejaying.”

➢➢ Click here to watch Ghosts of Princes in Towers
➢➢ Click here to watch the concert finale
➢➢ Click here for Phil Singleton’s full review and masses of pix

Rich Kids 2010

Last bow: Rich Kids and friends at the Academy. Mobile pic © by Graham K Smith

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2009 ➤ Onstage, Spandau’s Hadley and Kemp finally get huggy

Hell had frozen over, Tony Hadley said in 2007, and ruled out any chance of reunion for his band. So it’s all the more magnanimous that today he can say onstage “We are very happy boys”…

Spandau Ballet, Reformation tour, Tony Hadley,Gary Kemp, Martin Kemp, Steve Norman, John Keeble,David Tench, Dawn Joseph, 2009, comeback, live concert, Dublin, With the Pride, © by Shapersofthe80s

The picture they said could never be taken: a big hug between Spandau Ballet’s Tony Hadley and Gary Kemp during the band’s 2009 comeback concert in Dublin, after duetting With the Pride from 1984. Photographed © by Shapersofthe80s

❚ EXTRAORDINARY. UNEXPECTED. From the off, the Dubliners roared a loud, exuberant and warm welcome to the band that hadn’t played together for 19 years. They cheered the best bits by each musician – John, Steve, Gary, Martin and vocalist Tony. They cheered whenever closeups appeared on the monster live video backdrop. Within a day, amateur videos on YouTube [see below] were vividly testifying to the energy the event generated.

Spandau Ballet’s comeback Reformation tour began at the O2 arena in Ireland’s capital city on October 13, 2009, with a huge flickering video montage to remind us of the way the world was when they set the style as electro-pop innovators in 1980. Headlines announced “Recession”, “Unemployment” … “and Dreams”. Then a jabbing finger on an early synthesiser triggered a chugging high-octane version of their oh-so-cool first hit, To Cut a Long Story Short…

➢➢ Click to continue reading full concert report…

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WELCOME ➤ TO THE SWINGING EIGHTIES

In 1980 a youth movement began reshaping Britain.
Its stars didn’t call themselves New Romantics, or the Blitz Kids – but other people did. This writer was there and these words and pictures tell the tale.

David Bowie

◼︎ As a decade, the 1970s spelt doom. British youth culture had been discredited by punk. A monumental recession followed the Labour government’s “winter of discontent”, threatening the prospect of no jobs for years ahead.

Swinging 80s, London, history, blitz club, blitz kids, theblitzkids, theblitzclub, cult with no name, billy’s, gossip’s, nightclubs, fashion, pop music, steve strange, rusty egan, boy george, stephen jones, kim bowen, stephen linard, chris sullivan, robert elms, perry haines, princess julia, judi frankland, darla-jane gilroy,fiona dealey, jayne chilkes, derek ridgers, perry haines, terry jones, peter ashworth, lee sheldrick, michele clapton, myra, willy brown, helen robinson, stephane raynor, melissa caplan,Dinny Hall, Kate Garner, rachel auburn, richard ostell, Paul Bernstock, Dencil Williams, Darla Jane Gilroy, Simon Withers, Graham Smith, Graham Ball, christos tolera, sade adu, peter marilyn robinson, gaz mayall, midge ure, gary kemp, steve dagger,Denis O’Regan, andy polaris, john maybury, cerith Wyn Evans, iain webb, jeremy healy, david holah, stevie stewart, worried about the boy,Yet from this black hole burst an optimistic movement the press dubbed the New Romantics, based on a London club called the Blitz. Its deejay Rusty Egan promoted the deliberately un-rock sounds of synthesised electro-pop with a beat created for the dancefloor, while drumming in a studio seven-piece called Visage, fronted by the ultimate poser, Steve Strange. He and other fashionista Blitz Kids were picked by Bowie to represent their movement in his 1980 video for Ashes to Ashes (above). But the live band who broke all the industry rules were five dandies with a preposterous name: Spandau Ballet.

As the last of the Baby Boomers, the Blitz Kids were concerned with much more than music. In 1980 they shook off teenage doubt to express all those talents the later Generation X would have to live up to — leadership, adaptability, negotiating skills, focus. Children of the first era of mass TV, these can-doers excelled especially in visual awareness. They were the vanguard for a self-confident new class who were ready to enjoy the personal liberty and social mobility heralded by their parents in the 60s.

For Britain, the Swinging 80s were a tumultuous period of social change when the young wrested many levers of power away from the over-40s. London became a creative powerhouse and its pop music and street fashion the toast of world capitals. All because a vast dance underground had been gagging for a very sociable revolution.

★++++++★++++++★

“From now on, this will become the official history”
– Verdict of a former Blitz Kid

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Below: View Blitz Club host Steve Strange in all his poser glory in the promo video for Fade to Grey (1982), also starring the club’s cloakroom girl, Julia Fodor, aka Princess

CLICK HERE to run the anthemic 80s video ♫ ♫ from Spandau Ballet and feel the chant:

nightlife, st moritz, club for heroes,le kilt, wag club, beat route,hacienda, cha-cha, holy city zoo, rum runner, camden palace, scala cinema, studio 21,crocs, le palace, white trash, fac51, Dirt Box, mud club, batcave, barbarella's, croc's, electro-pop, synth-pop, Chant No 1, kid creole, blue rondo, animal nightlife, visage, duran, depeche mode, ultravox, human league, gentry, ABC,soft cell, bolan,vince clarke, haysi, wham!, mclaren, heaven 17, yazoo, foxx, omd, bauhaus, phil oakey, jay strongman, Martyn Ware, martin fry ,altered images, 20th-century box, vivienne westwood, PX, axiom, body-map , foundry, sue clowes,demob, seditionaries, acme attractions, i-D, the face, new sounds new styles, Korniloff, andrew logan, kahn & bell, biddie & eve, toyah,

July 2, 1981: Shooting the video for Chant No 1 at Le Beat Route club in Soho, “down, down, pass the Talk of the Town”. Photograph © by Shapersofthe80s

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