Category Archives: New Romantics

2024 ➤ Original outlaws celebrate their blasts from the past

Exhibition, fashion, 1980s, influencers, Youthculture, zeitgeist, Franceska Luther King, Fashion and Textile Museum, Outlaws,

Outlaws: superb gallery of the exhibition – Photos at Facebook © Franceska

❚ HERE’S A REVIEW OF THE NEW OUTLAWS SHOW, written by Franceska Luther King at Facebook yesterday…

<< Fabulous night at the private view of Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of 80s London at the Fashion and Textile Museum on Thursday evening. Curated by the amazing Martin Green and James Lawler and NJ Stevenson with amazing mannequins by David Cabaret. It was a very special night, a gathering of all the fashion crowd from the mid 80s, celebrating club culture and true creativity. Such good times!!!

So great to be included with a piece of my collection for Joseph back in the day, silk sari shirts. Post Demob designs and after my backing with Tanya Sarne and Jane Whiteside, I ventured on with my own collections sold to Jones, Whistles , Brown’s etc then my own little retail outlet in Kensington Market. So great to see all the familiar faces and see beautiful blasts from the past.

40 years later! And so sad that we have already lost so many… Great to see Joan Burey, Corinne Drewery, Greg Davis, John Richmond, Sue Tilley, Eve Ferret, Mark Moore, DarlaJane Gilroy, Simon Reeves, Daniel Conway, Derek Ridgers, David Johnson, Andrew Logan, Hamish Bowles, Sophie Parkin, Dean Bright, Tolan Hüseyin-Halleck, Paul Gorman, Robert Leach, Vivienne Austin, Richard Kaby.

Amazing clothes by Richard Torry, Rachel Auburn, BodyMap, Pam Hogg, Elmaz Huseyin, Sue Came, English Eccentrics, John Galliano, Katharine Hamnett, Kahn & Bell, Whittiker Malem, Dean Bright, Judy Blame, John Moore, Christopher Nemeth, Mark & Syrie, Leigh Bowery, John Crancher, Franceska King and many more!  >>

➢ Click through to Facebook to see all 18 images
in Franceska’s Outlaws post

Exhibition, fashion, 1980s, influencers, Youthculture, zeitgeist, Franceska Luther King, Fashion and Textile Museum, Outlaws,

Outlaws: true creativity and amazing mannequins – Photo © Franceska


➢ Visit Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of 80s London
at the Fashion and Textile Museum

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2024 ➤ Welcome to much unseen photography by Duran’s first lensman

Birmingham, books , photography, Rum Runner, Paul Edmond, Duran Duran, Maggie K de Monde, APS Books
❚ ANY FAN OF DURAN DURAN remembers the very first photographs of the band in 1980 as they finalised their line-up which was to win a recording contract by year’s end and secure their first chart hit with Planet Earth. The five musicians were young and handsome and while they emerged as lucky leaders of the New Romantic music and fashion movement based on Birmingham’s Rum Runner nightclub, so local teenager Paul Edmond learned the skills of photography by capturing their frilly shirts. These Pose Age outfits took inspiration from Jane Kahn and Patti Bell’s futurist boutique, but in those DIY days before stylists had been invented, it fell to Paul to inject a sense of cool nonchalance into his images of the budding pop stars as they too practised how best to look a camera in the eye.

➢ Order your set of Duran Duran En Scène,
three volumes of Paul Edmond’s photographs,
direct from APS Books

Four decades later, after selling 100 million records, winning umpteen music awards, and being welcomed into the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, Duran themselves revel in releasing new material and reworking the old, their latest album being Danse Macabre. How appropriate then that the photographic archive of Paul Edmond – which embraces a wider world of youth culture than only that of Duran – is being published this spring. A trio of books filling 200 A4 pages has been initiated by his sister Maggie K de Monde, herself an all-round song-writer and performer. Nick Rhodes makes a contribution. Advance orders for the £90 package are being invited by APS Books of Yorkshire, with delivery expected in June.

Tragically, Paul himself cannot share this poignant moment because he was killed in a road accident in 2015. He and I became great friends working on the monthly magazine New Sounds New Styles in 1981, for which he took an arresting cover picture of Jane Farrimond and the flamboyant Martin Degville, a pair of Brummie style leaders who both ended up in the band Sigue Sigue Sputnik.

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s: 1980, Out of the blue,
Duran’s first gig pictured at the Rum Runner

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s:
1981, Birth of Duran’s Planet Earth

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s: 1981,
New Sounds New Styles: Will it all be over by next week?

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s: 2023, Celebrating
Kahn and Bell’s role at the centre of Brummie fashion

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2024 ➤ London’s Evening Standard publishes my obituary of Linard the wild child of UK fashion

Stephen Linard, Blitz Kids, fashion, New Romantics, Swinging80s,

Photo by Kate Garner

❚ A LAVISHLY DESIGNED OBITUARY of Stephen Linard written by me appears in today’s Evening Standard online and stands as a well-deserved memoir for one of my best friends…
➢ The life of Stephen Linard – A flamboyant Canvey Island boy who went on to shape the Blitz Kids silhouette in the 1980s

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2024 ➤ Farewell to Linard, the craziest man I’ve known

Stephen Linard, Blitz Kids, fashion, New Romantics, Canvey Island,

Stephen Linard in 2018: A last pint at his local pub before moving away from Canvey Island. (Photo @ Shapersofthe80s)

INCREDIBLE!!!! Update – Shapersofthe80s has received 8,100 hits during the three days since Stephen’s death. Thank you to his fans

❚ HARD TO ACCEPT THAT STEPHEN LINARD has now died from the extensive throat cancer that had caused him so much pain recently. He was one of the craziest of eccentrics who frequently made me laugh out loud. We met at a party at Steve Strange’s flat in 1980 when he was among the sharpest half-dozen Blitz Kids who changed their looks daily and put the Blitz Club on the map. We hit it off immediately and I soon latched onto the star trio of Stephen, Kim Bowen and Lee Sheldrick who went everywhere together.

I photographed his degree show and over the years helped him through various projects in that era when St Martin’s School of Art failed to equip its graduates with any guidance for running their own businesses. Luckily, pop stars from Pet Shop Boys to U2 and even Bowie readily adopted his strong styles and in 1983 the American fashion press included him among the eight most influential London designers [see link below], noted for his strong eye for colour.

From 1983 to ’86 Stephen lived in Tokyo designing for Jun Co, the fashion giant, on a salary which, he liked to boast, exceeded the prime minister Margaret Thatcher’s. From 1989 until recently Stephen was a key player on the design team at Drake’s, the respected men’s haberdasher off Savile Row (pictured below). The main photo (above) marked a last pint at his local pub on Canvey Island where he lived in his late mother’s house until 2020 before joining the Old Romantic Folks who go on retiring to St Leonard’s-on-Sea.

Only six months ago, as if in anticipation of the worst, Stephen staged a striking exhibition of his early illustrations, titled Total Fashion Victim after the club-night he had hosted at Soho’s coolest hang-out, the Wag. I was lucky enough to write the outline catalogue with him.

drakes-london, Stephen Linard, British tailoring, haberdashery,fashion

Former Blitz Kid and St Martin’s fashion graduate Stephen Linard in 2011: a designer with Drake’s, the gentlemen’s haberdasher, seen here at a staff preview for the opening of its first shop just off Savile Row. (Photograph © Shapersofthe80s)

MORE ON STEPHEN INSIDE

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s: 2023, Total Fashion Victim – Linard’s exhibition of his early work

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s:
The Blitz Kids WATN? No 28, Stephen Linard

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s:
1980, Linard’s Alternative student show gives
Goths their archaic name

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s:
1982, Six British designers take London fashion
to the French

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s: Overseas influencers
declare eight hot fashion Brits for 1984

THE PROFESSIONAL TRIBUTES

➢ Stephen Linard, London designer, image maker and Blitz Kid, dead at 64 – Detailed analysis of his talents at Women’s Wear Daily, March 2024

➢ Goodbye, Stephen Linard: It was a privilege to know you – by novelist Maggie Alderson

➢ Linard’s entry at the Encyclopedia of Fashion – by Alan
J. Flux; updated by Daryl F. Mallett

➢ Blitz Kid Stephen Linard’s 1980 Neon-Gothic collection anticipated “Heavenly Bodies” by 38 years – from Vogue, 2018

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2023 ➤ Linard snapped in the footsteps of Duchamp

Stephen Linard, Total Fashion Victim, St Leonards on Sea, Rogue Gallery, September 2023, Blitz Kid, New Romantic, exhibition, fashion illustrations,

At his TFV PV: a colourful Linard with some of his early illustrations inspired by Tom of Finland. (Photo © Shapersofthe80s)

❚ NORMAN ROAD in St Leonard’s on Sea hosted more than its usual share of Eighties art fans this weekend. At Lucy Bell’s a book signing by Bowie’s travelling companion and photographer Geoff MacCormack drew fans seeking a signature on his latest title. Only yards away the newish Rogue Gallery was hosting Total Fashion Victim, an archive exhibition of one-time Blitz Kid Stephen Linard’s earliest fashion illustrations while a student from 1978 onward. As his tutor at St Martin’s Rosetta Brooks declared, he was a leader among the small pack of London fashionistas noted for their poser talents. “Each poser,” she believed, “is a ready-made,” exactly as defined by Marcel Duchamp in New York around 1914 when modernism was being born. (His own most famous ready-mades included Bicycle Wheel, Bottle Rack and the urinal titled Fountain.)

Partying with Linard – Click any pic to launch slideshow:

Here we can judge for ourselves from more than 40 pieces of artwork on sale for the next month, and enjoyed by a considerable crowd at the private view. Among them one of Linard’s designer contemporaries at St Martin’s School of Art was Corinne Drewery, later to become a pop singer with Swing Out Sister, here eye-catching in one of his flapper dresses in ikat with faded rose print which she used to wear circa 1983, “and it still fits”!!!

Linard’s previously unseen work – Click any pic to launch slideshow:

➢ Total Fashion Victim exhibition hosted by Ray Gange at the Rogue Gallery, 65 Norman Road, St Leonard’s On Sea

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s: 2023, My guide to the Linard exhibition which runs until 8 October at the Rogue Gallery

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