Monthly Archives: Feb 2012

➤ Dan Stern keeps an eye on the street in London Fashion Week

❚ DAN STERN, A STYLE-WISE OLD OWL from the 80s, was described by his pal at LSE Robert Elms as “always a pioneer” in his book The Way We Wore. These days Stern has been making a new life as the lensman behind the year-old photoblog, Street Fashion Monitor. He claims it is “the next generation of online fashion monitoring, combining the immediacy of street style blogging with the search facility of subscription-based trend forecasting services”. Your search can be refined simultaneously by choosing from 200 categories that include the prevailing weather and accessories such as walking canes and eye patches.

Here we see some of his images of the Pam Hogg and KTZ collections shown in London Fashion Week which seek to fulfil his maxim, which is also that of Jean Paul Gaultier: “Clothes are only interesting when they are on a body in motion.” Stern believes he offers “a real insight into what people do once they purchase the garments to make them their own”.

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➢ View more London Fashion Week pix at Street Fashion Monitor

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1972 ➤ Berger’s Ways of Seeing revolutionised the way we view art and is still an eye-opener today

Ways of Seeing, 1972: John Berger takes a knife to Botticelli’s Venus and Mars

➢ CLICK ON THE PIC to run the video of Ways of Seeing, part one

❚ 40 YEARS AGO AN ART CRITIC TOOK A STANLEY KNIFE to a Botticelli masterpiece in the National Gallery, and cut the head of Venus out from the canvas. (No, not the real painting, but a reproduction, obviously.) And what he held in his hand was the typical picture postcard by which many of us know this beautiful and all-conquering goddess. The critic and iconoclast John Berger was making a point that it is through reproductions that most of us view the world’s great art. He argued that paintings had been stripped of their context to raise money through sales of reproductions.

“With the invention of the camera, everything changed,” he said, meaning the ways our perceptions shifted. “The days of pilgrimage are over. It is the image of the painting which travels now. The meaning no longer resides in its unique painted surface which it’s only possible to see in one place and at one time. Its meaning has become transmittable. It comes to you, like the news of an event.”

This is how Berger launched Ways of Seeing on Jan 8, 1972 — four pioneering TV films which themselves were extended into a Penguin Modern Classic (set entirely in a heavy Univers font for a reason the author explains), and itself in turn is considered a seminal university-level text for current studies of visual culture and art history.

John Berger, Ways of Seeing , Penguin, books, TV seriesYesterday’s BBC radio strand Archive on 4 made exciting listening of judicious extracts. Titled The Politics of Art, it teased out Berger’s then revolutionary way of discussing paintings as commodities, under the themes of society and context, the nude, the power of money and advertising.

The historian Tim Marlow, currently director of exhibitions at White Cube, shows how Ways of Seeing was provocative and up-to-date in seeking out the opinions specifically of women and children. He believes the politics still matter. Berger challenged 600-year-old notions of ownership. “Previously art celebrated wealth and power: gods, princes and dynasties were worshipped… But the European oil painting served a different kind of wealth. It glorified not a static order of things, but the ability to buy, to furnish and to own.” In the late 20th century Berger subjects art to a Marxist critique that reminds us of the role of the makers. Being naked, he argues, is to be oneself. But a woman posing nude “is to be seen as an object”.

John Berger, Ways of Seeing, art, TV series

Berger’s phwoarr factor: charisma and intellect

Marlow asks how far the message of this series is pertinent again today. As a powerful corrective to glibness in much contemporary culture, The Politics of Art is well worth catching on the radio iPlayer, for Berger’s own bluff opinions, and those of several pundits, including the British novelist Marina Warner who is hooked on his phwoarr factor as well as his intellect: “Physically he was a powerful, beautiful man. And then his Mick Jagger-like charisma: he’s a thrilling performer. It’s a shame this kind of sexual magnetism is rarely seen now on TV — because it’s not permissible”!

There’s also a priceless sequence where the patrician connoisseur Lord Clark (of Civilisation, the earlier landmark TV survey of Western art) confesses to incomprehension before Picasso’s gigantic anti-war painting, Guernica, which invokes the aerial bombing of a Basque town during the Spanish civil war in 1937. Then Berger the passionate ideologue gives an assured deconstruction of the images of slaughter, its screaming civilians and symbols of freedom.

Now aged 85, Berger said recently of his TV series: “The programmes seem as urgent now as then. That’s because what’s happening in the world hasn’t changed very much — it’s only got more extreme. This political approach was prophetic about the world today.”

➢ John Berger video interview with Michael Silverblatt
in October 2002

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2012 ➤ Video celebrating Blur’s reunion at the Brit Awards

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❚ 90s BRITPOP BAND BLUR picked up the Outstanding Contribution To Music honour at the 2012 Brit Awards in London tonight. Before they stepped up to collect their award, this is the video that played, from Brixton-based
Blindeye Films. Blur, who have been together for more than 21 years, performed at the Brits in 1995, where they won four gongs: Best Band, Best Album, Best Single and Best British Video for their album Parklife.

➢ “Pulling Blur back together is like reassembling the A-Team for one last job” — Alex James writing in The Sun, vintage pix and all

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Sensationally rasping Phil Daniels duets with Damon (above) as Blur perform the title track from their 1994 album Parklife live at tonight’s awards.

➢ More video in STV’s report tonight — “As the band returned to the Brits stage to end tonight’s show with a medley of their hits, Damon Albarn delivered a heartfelt speech: “The last time we were here was 17 years ago and what happened that night seemed to have a really profound effect on our lives so it’s very nice to come back and say thank you very much for this honour … ” / continued online

➢ Celebrate with the new CD out this week, The Best Of Blur

❏ iPAD, TABLET & MOBILE USERS PLEASE NOTE — You may see only a tiny selection of items from this wide-ranging website about the 1980s, not chosen by the author. To access fuller background features and site index either click on “Standard view” or visit Shapersofthe80s.com on a desktop computer. ➢ Click here to visit a different random item every time you click

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2012 ➤ Adam Ant: sex, subversion, style, humour but don’t nobble me as a New Romantic

Adam Ant, interview, New Romantics,Proud Camden, photography, live concert

Adam Ant: intensely serious. (Photograph newly posted at Facebook)

➢ Adam Ant, Dandy in the Underworld is a retrospective photographic exhibition at Proud Galleries in London, being launched with a charity performance by Adam and band on March 6, 2012. Hence a superbly considered interview with Decca Aitkenhead in today’s Guardian about surviving stardom, dealing with bipolar disorder and stuff…

Ant still gets annoyed when anyone muddles him up with the early 80s New Romantic scene: “Cos New Romantic was nothing to do with Adam and the Ants. The Ants was a punk band, or a post-punk band if anything, and so historically it’s inaccurate. New Romantic was basically, in my mind, clubbers with too much makeup on with stupid clothes. I never set foot in any of their clubs, so I find it quite distressing to be nobbled into New Romantic, cos it was just a load of guys who looked like they’d had a row with their girlfriends’ makeup. There was nothing tough about it, nothing dangerous about it, it was soft electro stuff and it just looked a bit wet. And I didn’t like being associated with it.”

A man of 58 who still cares this much should probably come across as faintly ridiculous, but the intense seriousness with which Ant deconstructs these arcane distinctions conveys an impression of almost heartbreaking vulnerability… / continued online

“ I never set foot in the f***ing Blitz [club]
– I WOULD HAVE BOMBED IT ”

Adam Ant drawing his line in the sand with
the New Romantics
(Clink magazine, 23 March 2011)

MORE ON ADAM AT SHAPERSOFTHE80S

➢ 1981, How Adam stomped his way across the charts with six records in the same month to thwart the nascent New Romantics:

Adam Ant, Jordan, Jubilee, 1977

Instinctive punks, 1977: Adam and Jordan at the premiere for Jubilee

Shapersofthe80s has always drawn a clear distinction between Adam Ant and the New Romantics. As does Marco Pirroni, the Ants guitarist and co-writer of many of their hits. “Adam is glam-punk,” he told me emphatically at the bar of the Wag when Ant’s first solo single Puss ’n Boots was storming the chart in Oct 1983. “Americans don’t understand he was never a New Romantic.”

As if proof were needed, just gawp at the way Adam goes hoppity-skippiting through the video to Antmusic. The rent-a-crowd extras must have been the least stylish Londoners within earshot of the Blitz club. Gawp again at how these kids can’t dance either!

Yes of course Kings of the Wild Frontier went on to become one of the great slapstick albums of its time. No dispute. And with characters like Prince Charming and Puss ’n Boots, Adam treated us to year-round pantomime.

➢ Adam and Marco in battle of the bands — How I wrote Stand and Deliver, plus the early days of Ant music, plus all about Marco

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➤ Duran drummer Taylor turns his eye to art

Roger Taylor, LCC, Duran Duran, Saatchi Online, fine art,Marcin Potoczny

ENGINE Nr1 by Marcin Potoczny (2001, oil on yarn) is priced at $6,400

❚ THIS MONTH DURAN DURAN DRUMMER Roger Taylor became a curator at Saatchi Online, where he has selected ten works of art “for your viewing pleasure”. Here we see one of them by the Polish artist Marcin Potoczny who was born in Krakow but lives and works in London. He graduated with an MA in painting from the University of Fine Arts in Krakow and in digital graphics at LCC. ENGINE Nr1 (2001, oil on yarn) is priced at $6,400, with prints also available from $51.

Potoczny says: “Engine Nr1 is the first painting from my new series titled ENGINES. The way we memorize, what we memorize, and why certain images or situations are stored in our mind to become content of our dreams later are just a small part of my current research…” / continued online

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