Tag Archives: National Portrait Gallery

2025 ➤ Here’s to those Faces who created a new breed of journalism for the 1980s

Swinging 80s, Club Culture, Nick Logan, Steve Dagger, photography, exhibitions, London, National Portrait Gallery, Face Magazine,

Kings among influencers: Nick Logan and Steve Dagger, at the NPG private view. (Photo © Shapersofthe80s)

❚ AN EXCEPTIONAL CHAMPAGNE PARTY last night launched a compelling exhibition celebrating The Face magazine’s role as Britain’s “style bible” (*see below) for just over 20 years. A thorough display of photos and glass-boxed showcases of the magazine itself confirmed what a revolution in fashion and design took place between 1980 and 2004. And London’s National Portrait Gallery invited several generations of survivors to revisit their contributions, chief among them Nick Logan, founding owner and editor of The Face, as sociable yet bashful as he’s ever been, along with his partner Mia.

His gift, apart from investing £3,500 of his savings, was to put cool design and quality writing to the fore, at a time when Britain’s four weekly rock newspapers were a very narrowly acquired taste. Logan’s brief also went way beyond music into all aspects of culture and anthropology. That’s the main reason that both he and his radical designer Neville Brody – *who in five years established an inspired new visual language in print – both reject the description “style bible”, just as none of the New Romantics has ever owned up to that name dumped on them by the media.

Click any pic to enlarge in a slideshow:

No less a king influencer was Steve Dagger whose band Spandau Ballet changed the dreary noise of 70s pop into a new kind of dance music for the 80s. Two more such kings who helped shape the Swinging 80s were the St Martin’s graduate milliner Stephen Jones whose hats graced the heads of the first Blitz Kids then went on adding bazzazz to designer collections across the globe… And Peter Ashworth whose super-lit photographs have captured musical and fashionable excess just as far across the globe ever since.

Other vintage faces included Lesley White (the first front-desk copytaster at The Face’s various offices), St Martin’s star fashionista Fiona Dealey, clubland deejay Jeremy Healey, film-maker and musician Jamie Morgan, pioneering music journalist Paul Simper, and Derek Ridgers the straight-up photographer whose pictures illustrated many of my own nightlife reports in The Face’s early years.

Swinging 80s, Club Culture, photography, exhibitions, London, National Portrait Gallery, Face Magazine, Nick Logan, Neville Brody, Kathryn Flett

NPG talk about the Face exhibition: editor Nick Logan, art director Neville Brody and from 1987 the mag’s first fashion editor Kathryn Flett. (Photo © Shapersofthe80s)

Swinging 80s, Club Culture, photography, exhibitions, London, National Portrait Gallery, Face Magazine, Chris Sullivan, Ollie O'Donnell

Face exhibition video display: Who’s Who in clubland reportage by Yours Truly, featuring Chris Sullivan and Ollie O’Donnell. (Photo © Shapersofthe80s)

➢ The Face Magazine: Culture Shift exhibition
(20 February–18 May 2025 at the National Portrait Gallery) brings together the work of 80 photographers, featuring 200 photographs as a unique opportunity to see many of these images away from the magazine page.

Swinging 80s, Club Culture, photography, exhibitions, London, National Portrait Gallery, Face Magazine, Neville Brody,

Wise words from the man who subverted graphic design. (Photo © Shapersofthe80s)

➢ Previously at Shapersofthe80s:
1980, Power brokers of the fourth estate

➢ Also at Shapersofthe80s: 1980, How three wizards
met at the same crossroad in time

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2020 ➤ Hockney’s drawings lay bare the artist’s soul in the shifting sands of time

David Hockney, Drawing from Life, National Portrait Gallery, Reviews,

Fashion designer Celia Birtwell: drawn in crayon by Hockney in Hollywood, 1984 (detail)

◼ TWO OF OUR LEADING newspaper art critics have blown hot and cold over the new exhibition of David Hockney’s portraits titled Drawing From Life at the National Portrait Gallery in London. The Guardian’s Jonathan Jones awarded it five stars, raving in the most civilised way about the artist’s skill as a “graphic master” in this “the most dazzling display of his art I have ever seen”. Some praise!

However, the Times headlined its two-star review “Hockney gets hackneyed” while critic Rachel Campbell-Johnston complained that the show is repetitive: “less a fresh look at an innovative talent than a restricted rehash of what was just a small part of other previous shows”.

After two hours examining the 150 portraits large and small, many of them familiar images spanning six decades, I confess to having a foot in both camps. From the outset as a schoolboy Hockney’s eye for a spare line portraying fine detail was breathtakingly meticulous and, if you accept that capturing the eyes is the secret to any portrait, you will be thrilled to your imaginative roots by studying these 150 pairs of eyes up close! It’s a time-worn truism to say that you must visit an art gallery in the flesh because viewing reproductions in print or online can never do justice to an original painting or drawing. Here up close to Hockney’s strokes, in pencil, pastel, charcoal or etching, they are so evidently masterly, whether hair-fine or gesturally bold. The length of some lines is prodigious and intriguing to follow.

But yes, by the time I reached the final two rooms I’d already had enough, a mood that was visibly expressed there on the faces of the three friends who’d modelled for the great man for ever and again: onetime boyfriend Gregory Evans, designer Celia Birtwell and printer Maurice Payne. Hockney’s most recent frank portrayals of this visibly timeworn trio were not remotely flattering and they leave you wondering to what extent those forbearing friendships have been tested! Celia even told the Guardian her new chubby portrayal was “horrible” though conceding, “That’s life: One gets old”.

Click any pic below to enlarge all in a slideshow

David Hockney, Drawing from Life, National Portrait Gallery, Reviews,

The final gallery in Drawing From Life: the most recent and frank portraits of Celia, Maurice & Co.

In her Times review, Rachel C-J was essentially dumping on the predictable curation of this NPG show and especially the “lacklustre finale” that had required Hockney to redraw each of his subjects during 2019. She readily acknowledges his master draughtsmanship and his preoccupation with eroding distance “so that we can all come closer together”. Intimacy and mood are the keynotes to portraying his friends and RCJ happily recognises the portraits of his mother too as “magically intimate, subtle and tender”.

Much of this goes for his expressive self-portraits, some of which we view on vertical video screens which animate their progress as iPad drawings and always prove mesmerising. Many of the self-portraits are intense, starting with a precocious clutch executed in his late teens. Jonathan Jones makes much of Hockney’s learning curve: “What makes this exhibition so staggering is the picture it builds of a man who has never stopped learning”, ever since Picasso’s work imparted to him the essence of simplicity. And of staying alive to the world around us. Do go. There’s always pleasure to be had from the detail in a Hockney.

David Hockney, Drawing from Life, National Portrait Gallery, Reviews,

Old friends reunited at the National Portrait Gallery last week: Maurice Payne, Celia Birtwell, David Hockney and Gregory Evans. (Photo: David Parry)

➢ Hockney: Drawing From Life runs 27 February to 28 June 2020 at the National Portrait Gallery, before it closes for refurbishment

➢ The David Hockney Foundation archive

➢ Elsewhere at Shapers of the 80s:
1983, Britain’s favourite painter discovers a truer
way of seeing, with help from Proust

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