Category Archives: Social trends

2012 ➤ East London hipsters: leave your mark on Dazed’s instant history map

Jamie Hawkesworth,Dazed & Confused ,Secret History, East London

Photographed by Jamie Hawkesworth, clockwise from top left: Elijah Butterz, Nasir Mazhar, Tracey Moberly, Kathryn Ferguson, Yang Du, Martine Rose, Missy the dog, James Edson, Charlotte Jansen

➢ Kicking off its Secret History of East London project, the May issue of Dazed & Confused “asks a host of creatives, pioneers and dreamers whether rising rents, silicon roundabouts and a surfeit of artisinal [sic] coffee means that it’s all over for the creative inhabitants of east London”.

The young photographer Jamie Hawkesworth was asked to capture parts of the creative community — portraits of the artists, designers, musicians, publishers etc working from the area — and for his own memories of east London: “I’m always inspired by people that have a really strong character, a real sense of being and an expressive personality that comes across in the slightest of touches.” See above for the result.

Dazed Digital invites you to map your memories on its interactive timeline

Secret History ,East London ,dazeddigital,Cantaloupe

At Dazed Digital: a few hundred yards adrift, a black cross marks the fabled Cantaloupe where boys and girls learned the cruel facts of life about Shoreditch in the 90s


➢ Being taught the rules of London in the Canteloupe [sic] — See black cross added today by Duncan to Dazed Digital’s map. He says: “When I first moved to London in 1998 from Manchester, in fact my second day I think it was, I was in the back of the Canteloupe on Charlotte Road in Shoreditch and got talking to a guy from Manchester who told me the ‘rule of London’ being that you have to be brutal and move through social groups until you find YOUR people … taking the ones from a group you like the most and then surfing through people because London runs deep. It was a ‘big city’ chat. I didn’t really follow the advice, but I remember the advice like it was yesterday… Today (17th April) I walked past the Canteloupe and it has just closed, being refitted…”

Secret History ,East London ,dazeddigital,Cantaloupe,restaurants

Since November 1995 scruffy old Cantaloupe has been the benchmark of cool among the artisan streets of the Wild East: “as essential to Shoreditch as misunderstood haircuts, bubbling new musical hybrids and devil-may-care debauchery”

FRONT PAGE

➤ Trimphone aside, can you spot the designs that changed the look of Britain over 60 years?

British Design,exhibition ,Innovation, Modern Age, Victoria & Albert Museum,

British Design catalogue collage: road signs, high-rises, Kodak cameras, postage stamps, computers and Henry Moore — all are exhibited here

“Britain has since 1948 sustained an extraordinarily vigorous creative culture, even against a background of manufacturers leaving the stage like the instrumentalists in Haydn’s Farewell Symphony. It’s an inclusive culture, hence tapestries and Jaguars. It’s a culture that swoops artfully between high and low. It’s a culture that could import, with characteristic fairhandedness, both John Betjeman and Nikolaus Pevsner. The one in thrall to the village, the other in thrall to steel and glass. Wonderfully, each was a founder of The Victorian Society. Their contrasting spirits dominate British design in the years before The Beatles’ first LP. Thereafter, the Britain of crumpets-with-vicar became the undisputed global capital of youth culture whose furious organic vitality still invigorates business life.”

➢ Stephen Bayley, former chief executive of the Design Museum, writing in The Independent

Denys Lasdun, University of East Anglia,architecture

Architect Denys Lasdun’s University of East Anglia, 1962-68: raised walkways, striking ‘ziggurats’ and no building on campus more than five minutes’ walk away

❚ AN EXHIBITION TITLED British Design 1948–2012: Innovation in the Modern Age, is bound to infuriate as much as it excites. The grimly claustrophobic galleries that host temporary shows at the Victoria & Albert Museum abound with iconic and nostalgic everyday objects, rather as a good car-boot sale does. Yet the omission of much imaginative British media is unforgivable — the template for newspaper colour supplements laid out by The Sunday Times plus a serious investment in photo-reportage, for example… the more-British-than-British essence with which the American Joseph Losey propelled a whole chapter of stylish cinema… the sci-fi television fantasies of The Prisoner or Doctor Who…

Twiggy , Mary Quant ,miniskirt,Swinging London, youth culture

Twiggy models the Mary Quant miniskirt, 1965: named after the designer’s favourite car, the mini encapsulated the youth culture of Swinging London — energetic and unconventional

What the V&A show’s three themes propose — under the headings Tradition & Modernity, through the Subversion of pop, to Innovation & Creativity — amounts to a vital module for every art or design student in the education system, whose forebears, thank goodness, benefited from the shake-up imposed in 1960 by the Coldstream Report.

Ignore most dithering reviews of this hot-and-cold exhibition. Instead, do savour the argumentative Stephen Bayley, writing in that onetime model of new newspaper design, The Independent. He nails the paradox of this show in a daydream: “I became drunk on memories of whimsy, charm, gentility, wit and Macmillan-era futurism. My imagination never turned to the ruins of industry, the loss of technological competence, the barrenness of every British city except London and the fact that the economy of our once-busy island workshop is now based on the theory and practice of a dodgy casino.”

Bayley then comes to the nub of the matter: “The tricky thing is ‘design’ itself. It’s often muddled not only with ‘innovation’, but with invention, fashion and taste-making, sometimes even with art. After more than 150 years of promoting design at the V&A, no one seems to have any very clear idea of what it is. If it is a real subject, it must have a discipline. But what discipline connects Spence’s Coventry Cathedral with Damien Hirst’s 1997 Pharmacy restaurant in Notting Hill, west London, each of which features here?

“If, as the design lobby often insists, ‘everything has been designed’, then everyone is a designer. So what special qualities do professional designers bring to any task?”

British Design,exhibition ,Innovation, Modern Age, Festival of Britain, Skylon, Concorde

Notions of modernity: at the Festival of Britain, 1951, the Skylon designed by Powell & Moya was rendered by the practice’s junior architect James Gowan as a monumentalised missile, and symbolised the dawning age of science. In 1979, BA’s sixth Concorde took off on its maiden flight

Aim Bayley’s question at three triumphs of design in the V&A show: the kinetic balancing act of the Festival of Britain’s Skylon structure; the bird-wing aerodynamics of Concorde miniaturised at the V&A in a 20-ft model; and the most thrilling artefact in the entire show: the skilfully lit Jaguar E-Type from 1961 which rival manufacturer Enzo Ferrari declared “the most beautiful car ever made”. Drop down to one knee and view the Jag diagonally from any corner and wonder at its lack of straight lines. One curve after another creates changing perspectives that conspire to emulate speed even as it stands motionless before you. Seldom will you hear both men and women purring over such a seductive silhouette! Seldom will you ever see such a thrilling manmade object.

There are a good number of breathtaking moments in this show that beg you to ask why and how an exhibit stopped you in your tracks, though not as many as you would wish.

Malcolm Sayer, Jaguar E-Type,sports car ,

Relish the curves: designed by Malcolm Sayer, the Jaguar E-Type 3.8-litre sports car was launched at the Geneva Motor Show in 1961 as a two-seat coupe or convertible, with a top speed of 150 mph. The car’s shape is the epitome of speed

➢ British Design 1948–2012: Innovation in the Modern Age, runs at the Victoria & Albert Museum, Mar 31 until Aug 12

FRONT PAGE

➤ Proustian frissons aplenty as Derek Ridgers’ photographs revisit three decades

Derek Ridgers, photography, exhibition, Society Club,Morrissey

Derek Ridgers in Soho last night: his portrait of Morrissey a bridge between two eras. Photographed by Shapersofthe80s

❚ SOME PHOTOGRAPHERS ARE as extrovert as their famous sitters, but Derek Ridgers has captured the essence of British street style and achieved a uniquely influential status by tip-toeing through the margins of life, feather-footed as the questing vole. Anyone who has followed the Punk and New Romantic scenes recognises the Ridgers types — “transient beings moving across an urban landscape, experimenters, flamboyant souls who cared more than anything about how they looked and whose greatest fear was of being ordinary”, as writer Val Williams noted in the Ridgers photobook of 2004, When We Were Young: Club and Street Portraits. His straight-up photographic style pinned those clubbing butterflies like curios into the display case labelled Swinging 80s. They trigger the involuntary remembrance of the texture of an era as readily as cake did for Marcel Proust: each image has the potential to become the “vase filled with perfumes, sounds, places and climates”.

Throughout April and May we may relish the Ridgers back catalogue in a new exhibition titled Unseen at Soho’s Society Club. The selection documents celebrities and street stylists from 35 years of commissions by music mags and national press. Here is an engaging mix of concert shots and powerfully intimate portraits in which eye-contact is key: Nick Cave, David Lynch, J G Ballard, Boy George, Tom Waits, The Cramps, Mick Jagger, plus the image of Keith Richards which is currently touring in the Sunday Times Magazine 50th anniversary show.

Another exceptionally striking portrait has the singer Morrissey eyeballing the Ridgers lens with an intense gaze that definitely says misunderstood but could just as easily be saying cussed. It was shot in London in 1985, year of The Smiths’ second album, Meat Is Murder, when Moz began raising the temperature with political views about the Thatcher government and the monarchy.

Derek Ridgers, photography, exhibition, Society Club, Keith Richards

Soho last night: Ridgers, Richards and a new snapper called Tracy Jenkins. Photographed by Shapersothe80s

Ridgers said: “He’s a bit of a strain to photograph in the sense that there is so little of his personality coming back at you. Or at least there wasn’t in those days. Maybe he was very shy but he seemed taciturn in the extreme. The two times we met, he gave the impression of not wanting to say boo to a goose. He honestly hardly said a word to me. Nothing at all like the extremely opinionated personality that comes across in interviews these days.”

The two characteristic Morrisseys of then and now — the one taciturn, the other curmudgeonly — bestride three decades which completely reinvented British notions of youth culture, music, sexuality and success, yet at last night’s preview it was salutory to be pulled up by a 26-year-old illustrator among the guests who had to ask: Who was Morrissey?

All the more reason to buy ourselves a cool black-and-white print as a Proustian trigger, either directly from the Ridgers Archive or from an earlier catalogue viewable at the Society Club. Titled Previously Unpublished, this takes us from an iconic 1982 lineup of the ever-evolving band The Fall, through Culture Club, John Galliano, Roddy Frame, Tim Roth, into the 90s of the Charlatans, Ray Winstone, Lee Scratch Perry and a pensive Kylie Minogue to a raunchy Boo Delicious and more in the new century.

Ridgers has published three books of photographs, has exhibited frequently, and was a judge in How We Are Now, an online photography project launched by Tate Britain in 2007.

➢ Derek Ridgers Unseen runs until May 31 at the Society Club, 12 Ingestre Place, London W1F 0JF

➢ Previously Unpublished can be bought in various formats from Blurb, “a creative publishing service”

➢ 50 Years of The Sunday Times Magazine is viewable in Bristol, Manchester and Birmingham until June

FRONT PAGE

➤ Uh-oh! Vice lifts the lid on the untold dramality of Dalston Superstars

Dalston Superstars, #Exposed , Vicedotcom,dramality, web TV,hipsters
➢ Click the pic to view the new #Exposed video

➢ Vicedotcom exhumes its hipster tragicomedy — and just look at the tags: Mark Ronson, Grace Dent, billie jd porter, Paul Morley

Dalston Superstars #Exposed is the untold story of the web series that changed everything. Back in 2011, Dalston Superstars was launched on an unsuspecting internet, clocking up a record three million Facebook likes.

At first glance the show appeared to be just another dramality show in the vein of TOWIE or Jersey Shore, but, on closer inspection, was Dalston Superstars more than that? Was it in fact a searing satire, not only of reality television, but also of the mindless young hipsters who populate East London’s streets? / Er, discuss at Vice online

❏ Top Commenter and bad speller Guy Turner declares at Vicedotcom: “I think you started it as a reality TV spin-off with your cool hipster freinds [sic] then realised they were nobs [sic] so pretended it was satire as the abuse came in from all quarters.”

➢ Catch up on the whole darn dramality of the original Dalston Superstars as it unfolded — only at Shapersofthe80s

FRONT PAGE

➤ That Boy George bio-drama gets a repeat — take it all with a large pinch of salt!

Worried About The Boy, theBlitzClub,Boy George,Daniel Wallace,Douglas Booth,BBC, TV drama

Worried About The Boy: Queens of London’s Blitz Club and pioneers of the 80s New Romantic style, Christopher (Daniel Wallace) and George (Douglas Booth) as fictionalised in the BBC drama

❚ FOR VIEWERS CATCHING UP TONIGHT on the repeat of Worried About The Boy, the BBC’s sanitised drama about Boy George’s teen romancings, read how Shapersofthe80s canvassed the reactions of original Blitz Kids live during its first transmission in 2010.

➢ 2010, Here exclusively at Shapersofthe80s, ex-Blitz Kids give their verdicts on the TV drama Worried About the Boy

➢ 1980, Three key men in Boy George’s life — who was really who in the fictionalised BBC version of real life

➢ View WATB clips at the BBC TV website

GEORGE’S FINAL VERDICT, TWEETED MARCH 8:

Boy George, Twitter, March 2012, Worried About the Boy, BBC drama

Tweeted by Boy George, March 8, 2012

❏ iPAD, TABLET & MOBILE USERS PLEASE NOTE — You may see only a tiny selection of items from this wide-ranging website about the 1980s, not chosen by the author. To access fuller background features and site index either click on “Standard view” or visit Shapersofthe80s.com on a desktop computer. ➢ Click here to visit a different random item every time you click

FRONT PAGE