2013 ➤ Paris RTW throws up pure anarchy from London in the 80s

“The black-and-whiteness, the kilt over drop-crotch leggings, suspenders on oversize checked silk trousers, gender neutrality — shades of Bodymap in the eighties?”

◼ These stunning pix show shades of more than Bodymap in the 80s – shades also of Westwood, Linard and Galliano. Just read the sheer depth and breadth of brilliant vision expressed this week by Deborah and Priscilla Royer’s wittily titled Pièce d’anarchive presentation …

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➢ For stylecom Tim Blanks reports on this sensational RTW collection which could have come straight down the London catwalks 30 years ago!

French art students learn about Jean Pierre Raynaud at school. He was the conceptualist who spent 25 years building his house, only to decide it was too perfect and, in 1993, tear it to bits. Center stage at Deborah and Priscilla Royer’s laser-sharp presentation for Pièce d’anarchive was a major piece by Raynaud: 64 stainless-steel buckets filled with rubble from his demolition job, installed by the artist himself…

The Royers remodeled sporty athleticism, one of the big stories for Spring 2014, with their own knitwear expertise. “Fusing French craftsmanship with street influences,” said Deborah, “less archive, more anarchy”. The black-and-whiteness, the kilt over drop-crotch leggings, suspenders on oversize checked silk trousers, gender neutrality — shades of Bodymap in the eighties? OK, grant the girls that flicker of fashion anarchy, but otherwise, the linear precision of the clothes was less about letting go, more about complete control of the body, with pieces in substantial technical yarns that celebrated the fit form… / Continued at style.com

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