Category Archives: Europe

➤ After Anna’s drenching, Gaultier leads the world’s fashionistas for more ice-bucket madness

ALS charity,ANNA WINTOUR, VIDEO,Ice Bucket Challenge,Dominic West,  Roger Federer,Vogue,

There goes her bob: editor Anna Wintour gets dowsed. Click pic to view video at Vogue

◼ WHO WOULD HAVE PREDICTED the stern-faced Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour would have played ball with the #icebucketchallenge sweeping America to raise funds for the ALS charity? Well, having been dared to get freezing-wet by her daughter Bee Shaffer, here’s the proof that Anna and her immaculately coiffed bob are good sports. The big question: Will the wet look make it to the September issue?

➢ Click to see Anna Wintour accept the
ALS Ice Bucket Challenge

Following the rules of the challenge, La Wintour obligingly nominated Roger Federer, tennis champion, and Dominic West, star of the TV drama series The Wire, to get themselves dowsed within 24 hours.

However, before either of them could muster enough supermarket ice-cubes, zat crazee Froggy, Jean Paul Gaultier, led the charge for the international brigade of couturiers. (So far fashion had been represented only by models such as Cara Delevingne and Suki Waterhouse.) Here is JP being given the big freeze by some handpicked hunk in speedos…

MEANWHILE BACK ON THE FASHION RUNWAY

❏ Fabulous fashion footnote: You have until Monday 25 August to catch the extraordinary and witty retrospective of JPG’s madcap couture creations in The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier at London’s Barbican Art Gallery: 165 cutting-edge garments that boggle the imagination, up close and theatrically displayed in a touring exhibition from the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts.

➢ Previously at Shapers of the 80s: Gaultier celebration trumps all else in London this summer

Fashion , Jean Paul Gaultier, Sidewalk to the Catwalk London, Barbican Art Gallery, exhibition, Eurotrash, reviews,

No, not JPG himself sporting a mink Marinière, and greeting us in English and French. This is one of many custom-made mannequins at London’s Barbican exhibition, brought flirtatiously to audio-visual life by the UBU/Compagnie de création of Montreal and Jolicoeur International of Quebec. Photographed by Shapersofthe80s

➢ Jean Paul Gaultier’s take on Sade’s style

Iain R Webb,fanzine,Jean Paul Gaultier, fashion,

Fan and hero: Iain R Webb and JP Gaultier

➢ British fashion guru Iain R Webb recently gave a guided tour of the Gaultier show in London – To prepare for the talk, he constructed a scrapbook of his friendship with JP Gaultier preferring to call it a fanzine. You can view it at his blog Hopeandglitter.

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ss2015 ➤ Yohji upstages the world with wild impudent vagabond princes

Yohji Yamamoto, 2015 Spring/Summer, menswear, Collection, Paris Fashion Week, grunge, tailoring, deconstruction
Yohji Yamamoto, 2015 Spring/Summer, menswear, Collection, Paris Fashion Week, grunge, tailoring, deconstruction
❚ MORE AVANT THAN THE AVANT GARDE is this blistering display of individuality from Yohji Yamamoto at Paris Fashion Week. His daring menswear for spring-summer 2015 hurls princely nobility together with vagabond grunge. His mix of rich and distressed fabrics with abstract cutting sets a subversive new silhouette that is both tailored and casual. Yohji’s East meets West kaleidoscope collides patchworks, dyes, chambrays, straps, pinstripes, scarves and hats. It makes for strong stuff. [All photography from Vogue online]

Yohji Yamamoto, 2015 Spring/Summer, menswear, Collection, Paris Fashion Week, grunge, tailoring, deconstruction
Yohji Yamamoto, 2015 Spring/Summer, menswear, Collection, Paris Fashion Week, grunge, tailoring, deconstruction
Yohji Yamamoto, 2015 Spring/Summer, menswear, Collection, Paris Fashion Week, grunge, tailoring, deconstruction
Yohji Yamamoto, 2015 Spring/Summer, menswear, Collection, Paris Fashion Week, grunge, tailoring, deconstruction
➢ More runway shots of Yohji Yamamoto’s menswear collection for ss2015 at Vogue online

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➤ 40 years on from Abba, Austria fields a bearded drag artist for Eurovision

Tom Neuwirth, Conchita Wurst, Eurovision , sexuality, drag

Conchita aka Tom: a bearded lady in the Eurovision Song Contest in Copenhagen

❚ THE PRIVATE PERSON TOM NEUWIRTH was born in Austria in 1988 and the art personality Conchita Wurst in 2011, the same year Tom graduated from the Graz School of Fashion. In last night’s second semi-final of the Eurovision Song Contest, the bearded drag performer Conchita won her place to represent Austria in Saturday’s final by singing what could pass gloriously as a Bond theme, Rise Like a Phoenix.

The homophobic backlash could have been predicted from conservative nations such as Ukraine, Belarus and Russia where petitions have urged her removal from the competition. Russian politician Vitaly Milonov called her a “pervert” adding: “It is not normal but a person cannot be punished in Russia for being homosexual, or to live with a dog, with a horse, with a sheep, whatever.”

Ms Wurst answered her critics: “I can only say ‘Thank you for your attention’. If this is only about me and my person, I can live with it. I’m just a singer in a fabulous dress, with great hair and a beard.

“I created this bearded lady to show the world that you can do whatever you want,” she said at a press conference in Copenhagen. Although the German word Wurst routinely means “sausage”, its idiomatic meaning is “irrelevant” so signalling that Conchita’s sexuality is a non-issue. She makes a statement for tolerance and acceptance while 25-year-old Tom’s motto is: “Be the best version of yourself rather than a bad copy of someone else.”

➢ Conchita interviewed by Brendan O’Connor on the Irish Saturday Night Show

➢ Live video meet and greet with Conchita Wurst in Copenhagen: “Shoot for the moon. Even if you miss you’ll land among the stars. That’s the way I live”

➢ Ich will einen Grammy” – Conchita wird von deutschem Fernsehen auf dem roten Stuhl interviewt: “Ich bin in Kolumbien geboren, am Bogota. Ich wurde genannt meine Grossmutter, Conchita. Und Wurst, bei mein Vater natürlich Alfred Knack von Wurst”

BEFORE: TOM NEUWIRTH …

… AFTER: CONCHITA WURST

HOT UPDATE MAY 10 – CONCHITA WINS!!!

Tom Neuwirth, Conchita Wurst, Eurovision , sexuality

Conchita Wurst victorious: she was second favourite to win going into the contest (PA)

➢ BBC News reports: Austrian drag act Conchita Wurst has been crowned the winner of the 59th Eurovision Song Contest: “The singer, whose real name is Tom Neuwirth, won with the song Rise Like a Phoenix, collecting 290 points. The Netherlands finished second with 238 points, with Sweden in third place with 218 points. Wurst had been the second favourite to win behind Sweden going in to the competition, with many predicting the act could be too divisive among voters. However she was the clear winner, with her victory announced after 34 of the 37 countries had submitted their scores.”

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➤ Fab Abba, a far cry from the days of Ward-ahloo

❚ ON THE 40TH ANNIVERSARY of Abba winning the Eurovision song contest with their Waterloo wall of sound and their self-selected kitsch costumes from the age before stylists had been invented we celebrate how this deeply uncool Swedish group turned into a much-loved cult. From the vaults we’ve dug out The Sunday Times’s assessment of Abba published in its encyclopedic Abba-to-Zappa partwork 1000 Makers of Music in 1997 – the decade of Britpop in which they were suddenly rehabilitated by music’s opinion formers.

FROM 1000 MAKERS OF MUSIC, 1997

Abba, pop music, Eurovision

1000 Makers of Music: Abba assessed by The Sunday Times

Abba
Swedish, 1973-82, vocal group
As cheesy now as when they won the Eurovision song contest singing Waterloo, Abba embody a perennial contradiction: you may make the quintessential pop music of the decade but you must remain for ever a bad joke if that era proves as tasteless as the 1970s. Abba’s lovingly coupled foursome – the acme of glitz in their satins and flares – were derided because Benny Andersson and Björn Ulvaeus, as journeymen songsmiths, wrote singalong melodies epitomising Europe’s dreaded folkloric tradition. Worse, their sentimental lyrics about love and money – in English – nauseated purists who preferred Anglo-American guitar heroes who mouthed youthful dissent.

Yet Abba scored eight consecutive No 1 albums in Britain and 25 Top 40 singles so catchy that everybody can hum one. In 1992 Abba’s hits were revived ironically by Erasure and ingenuously by a tribute band called Björn Again. Today Abba enjoy cult status in Britain as new generations, numbed by the joylessness of techno, recycle yesteryear’s kitsch to discover ecstasy in pure pop.

Keywork: Knowing Me, Knowing You (1977)

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➤ Gaultier celebration trumps all else in London this summer

Fashion , Jean Paul Gaultier, Sidewalk to the Catwalk London, Barbican Art Gallery, exhibition, Eurotrash, reviews,

Dazzling couture, animated mannequins: Gaultier’s life story in one theatrical show

◼︎ YOU’LL NEVER HAVE SEEN an avant-garde fashion show like it, let alone couture up close and jangling its Swarovski crystals in your face. The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier, From Sidewalk to the Catwalk, celebrates four decades of the crazee French designer who gave the world the cone bra and the man skirt. Andy Warhol said of him: “What he does is really art.” Touring the world’s leading galleries from Canada, this theatrical multi-media exhibition is unlike anything you have seen before and it is sensationally displayed all summer in London’s Barbican Art Gallery. It is sexy, funny, sumptuous and packed with philosophical surprises about clothes as an extension of yourself.

Gaultier also pays generous homage to British popular culture which he has thrived on since the 70s, whether the excesses of punk or the thrifty displays of status by the pearly kings and queens of Cockney London. He is always to be found hanging out on the London scene. Why? Because, he says: “The English were the first to appreciate my fashion! If there’s one place other than Paris that I should have lived, it should be in London.” The Barbican even devotes a video room to his stint presenting Channel 4’s Eurotrash TV magazine for its first seven series.

➢ The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier, 9 April–25 August 2014 at the Barbican Art Gallery, London

➢ “Raucous and experimental both in form and content, I’m likely to call this the most blithely divine fashion show you’ll catch in the near future” – New Statesman

➢ “A rare and fascinating opportunity to get inside the creative mind of one of fashion’s most daring designers” – Creative Review

➢ “Few other designers can boast a career that has moved from presenting the camp late-night television show Eurotrash to designing haute couture” – Vogue

➢ “Gaultier’s intention was not to merely provoke the public but to be a voyeur” – Hunger Magazine

➢ The UBU/Compagnie de création in Québec which produced the exhibition

➢ Jolicoeur International of Quebec, manufacturer of high-end mannequins

➢ View video: Gaultier’s SS2013 runway tribute to British pop icons

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